A.K.A.

What Price for Glory?

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Glory

is a nearly vertical face with lots of jugs and edges for feet.  An occasional sidepull or smear provides additional challenge.  Fairly consistent for the grade, but not very committing due to the abundance of protection.  The bolt line heads straight up a face just to the right of a system of cracks and weaknesses.  Then, it suddenly shifts to the left for one last bolt.  This bulge section seems to provide the crux of the climb.  This is a good route for beginners.

Glory

Sweet Lady J

Lake Effect

No Woman, No Cry

Pixel

Carrot Tops and Eddies

Squanto

Out of Juice

All Guts, No Glory

Critter Conundrum

Rusty Corner

Gobslutch

The Vulgarian

Vulgaria

Matt's Meat Star

To Be Young

Chilly Dogs

Mosquito Mayhem

Butter Face

Tom's Tunacan

Rusty corner: an overlooked, red-headed step child among many stellar routes at Cliff Lake. I really doubt I'm the first to climb it, but it totally goes and should be documented on MP. I'm pretty sure it hasn't been "established" because there are no bolted anchors for it and you must build a gear anchor. That said, I think it's a great reason to put the route up because it makes for a good lead for beginner trad climbers learning to place gear and build a gear anchor with pro.

Rusty corner is a little dirty, hence the name, but I found no loose rocks or blocks on it, and there are ample places for lots of pro all along the route. You can circumnavigate the short roof section by going left or right, or you can go straight through it for a little added difficulty. I would say going directly through the roof is about 5.7-.

There is a bomber vertical crack up top to build an anchor. The vertical crack takes 3s, a 2, and I found a horizontal crack for a small nut or micros.

Like Rusty Corner, this route has probably been toproped previously.  But I don't think it is an established line. I asked around, including a local guide and noone knew of it having been climbed. There were several death blocks that I removed, so even toprope was risky for belayer.

The route begins in the inside corner to the right of Vulgarians.  Stem up the corner past 8 bolts and out the huge roof.  Way cool!

A real fun route that follows a crack to a large, funky roof.

Begin off the ground and fire the direct, steep start or work you way up and in from the left, either way, get up and gain composure on a small ledge.  Follow the more continuous, larger, vertical crack up until you meet the base of the roof. A little bit of shuffling and maybe some grunting leads to a bolt at the routes crux, crank on and enjoy the view.

Several variations for start and middle, crux is pulling mini roof at top onto sloping face where anchors are located.

The crack is overgrown but the rock is pretty stable. Could be a fun climb for a new trad leader. The route is straight forward with no real crux to speak of. Make sure to take some webbing to sling a tree as an anchor. We had a first time "crag dog" with us, Pixel.

Follow the small ramp and shoot for the hand crack splitting the top of the wall. Watch for loose blocks.

Far left bolted line on the wall. Start by standing on a boulder to reach the first bolt.

Start in left facing corner just left of Squanto. Traverse left under roof then straight up using horizontal cracks for pro. Clip a bolt out right and pull some hard moves through a notch to the juggy face above. Climb easy face up to bolted anchor.

To the right of Glory is a black streaked crack that leads up to a roof at the top.  The crack is a bit dirty (lichen at the roof) but one does not need it for the most part as there are lots of other holds. Clearing the roof is bit problematic as there is loose but wedged block at the top.

This is a great "school house" easy crack climb/laying dihedral off of the slab.  Still needs major cleaning, as there is a forest of green growing in and out of the crack.  Great area to practice placing gear and transitioning belays.  No real crux to speak of, the climbing is fairly consistent.

First climb on the right side of the cliff.  Starts off in a roof crack to a face, then traverse left to another roof, clip a bolt pull the roof and climb to anchors.

The Vulgarian starts at the base of Pox on Vulgaria but climbs the perfect vertical gear crack two feet to the right of the bolts on Vulgaria. At the midway ledge the route merges with Pox on Vulgaria but does not use the bolts instead use the excellent horizontals for gear. A fine gear route for the 5.8 leader.

A.K.A.

A Pox in Vulgaria

- A fantastic route for the grade, just not very long.  Well protected, good rock, and some good overhanging moves that require pulling on jugs with minimal feet.  Provides a nice pump for the portly.  Some of the stances were a little reachy, but were very logically placed.  The Smith & Tusting guide specifies that there are 8 bolts, so I may have skipped one, but it still wasn't run out.  A great view rewards those reaching the top.  Vulgaria can easily be top-roped from an approach trail on the east side of the cliff.

Start into a vegetated v-shaped dihedral and quest left toward an obvious notch in the roof at the top of the cliff. Work past a shallow right facing corner to the final vertical section through the notch. Walk off from the top.

The route feels surprisingly vertical, but the pro is plentiful. Just watch out for one or two loose blocks while placing gear.

Climb up obvious small buttress passing one bolt about 15‘ up. Continue straight up under overhang to broken hand crack that splits the 5’ horizontal roof. Out the roof is about 12-, or go right through Nick’s Notch for a 5.8 finish. Carefully place cams as to not inhibit jams. Pull roof on steep jugs. No anchor, walk off to right.

A great route on a good wall,

Chilly Dogs

starts off burly working its way past a few bolts, up and around a large roof. Stick with it and gain a quick rest. Delicate climbing past another small roof leads to a steep and solid head wall. Long pulls over great rock, finish on a nice ledge.

Climb up the low angle slab to the top of the crag.  Follows shallow corners and slots for pro and holds.

Nice, compact rock with plenty of holds and good protection.

A pretty good route on a rather pretty face?

Butter Face

offers a lot of fun and a few upper pitch variations. This route is best done as a warm-up or warm-down, but if you brought the gear just do it.

Butter Face

is a nice steep pitch over easy terrain. A cool set of fractures over forgiving and solid rock lead the climber to a big rest at the 3/4's mark. From here choose the finish the best suits you. A more mellow, standard approach climbs to the right over easy terrain and great gear placements. Another option leans left over a blank spot with less gear and more go juice!

You can't deny it, you know you wan to try it.

Start on top of a boulder under the roof at a perfect BD #3 horizontal crack. Pull onto the face and head for the sweet looking stembox and then pull through the roofs. Watch out for some loose blocks

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Cliff Lake