Start on the rail on the right, and work up left to the super-condition dependent pinch and the nice sharp right-hand gaston. Power up, in control and slightly to the left, to a left-facing jug rail.

Totally amazing. Great movement. Tensiony and technical.

I thought it was harder than Cruise Control, but it was pretty hot. One the best in the area.

Feel The Pinch

Arrested Development

Bedroom Bully

Cruise Control

Busted Stand

Fiend it Like a Crack

Power Steering

Autopilot

Busta pinch

Busted

The Drill Sargeant

The Shield

From head-high crimps, dyno up and right to the slot. Mantle straight up from the starting holds.

First off, I haven't sent this thing, but I think my experience qualifies me to post it.  In 2005 I was a move from the top when I peeled, hit the pad on its hinge, and broke my left ankle.  Making things worse, I spent the next 2.5 hours driving home, gritting my teeth every time I engaged the clutch.  Making things worse yet, this all went down the day before my wife and I were supposed to leave for a week on Mexican beaches, sans kids.  We still went, but it was an icy trip at first.

Crimp up on sharp positive flakes and make a big stab up and right to a good gaston edge.  Move to some sloper edges below the topout, hike your right foot up to the gaston edge and...topout I guess.  This is where my left foot popped and I fell.

What I've described is listed as a variation in Central Washington Bouldering.  Apparently if you use the left-hand arete instead of moving to the gaston, it's V3.

Start on the bulb and sidepull. Work your way out right with tricky feet then up on jugs

Skip the sit start of Busted for an equally as fun, but not as fulfilling climb! It's rated a V7 in the latest guidebook. Super safe landing. Start a bit before the crux move to the crack.

A long series of good holds, a couple of long reaches, and a cruxy top-out that will get your attention.  You might even get a little pumped.

Climb the arete just to the right of Cruise Control. Start sitting and find the nice jugs on the way up. A few fun moves on good holds to a somewhat technical top out for the grade. It can be tricky if V2 is your redpoint, but it's also a great warmup problem for the area.

Start cross-matched on an incut crimp in the center of the clean face. Move to a high left-hand micro-pinch, then ratchet up the body tension and crimp strength to climb up and left through seemingly blank territory.

Start as for busted but break left quickly and top out on the pinch problem to the left. Fun variation of looking for something a  bit more challenging

Sit start on the flake, move up on side pulls.  Great climb!

A very short and powerful sit start v8 (v2ish if you stand start) with an interesting mantle out.

Get a solid grip on the sidepulls, hoist your bum off the dirt and power up.

Classic dynamic movement on great rock.  Start on 2 chest-height crimps and fire up and right for a good incut edge.  Topout directly above.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Busted Boulder