Slabby start, mantle in the middle, easy slab to an awkward dihedral finish. Not a great top rope climb, get it on lead.

Another Roadside Attraction

5.11 Mixed Route

The Orange Wall?

zigzag

Hex Crack

5.10 Arete

The Wave

Patina pocket

Goldmine

Jackyle & Hyde

Psych

Offwidth Dihedral

Catholic Schoolgirls

Pullout Crack

Unnamed 5.8

Just nuts if you have the balls

Crux is at the top. Helps if you're tall.   Climb is pretty great. At one point you can go left onto the face, or right onto nice jugs. It looks like you should go left, but I think that would make it significantly harder than a 5.9+.   I don't know.   Crux seems to be at the very top. I used the undercling, got my feet high, went out left hand to a small sidepull crimp, then shot up for the obvious good jug.

The crux appears to be at the bottom with all the bolts.   I haven't climbed this...

This route climbs the orange arete with the obvious crack running through it. Start with a boulder move with three bolts, climb past a two bolt anchor, ascend the crack using cams (BD # 1, 2, and 3). Then climb the face above the route (crux) via 3 bolts.

This is the large lightening bolt shaped crack on the climbers left side of the black lakes crag. The climb is to the left of the 5.9 offwidth crack.  

  Start in an open book and climb past a small tree. Climb through fun climbing to a roof. Climb the roof to a ledge, rest here and move right into the "zig zags" protect these moves with bigger gear (BD #5 works)  

  Fromt the zags, head back left to a layback to the cruxy top out.

On the far left side of Black Lakes Crag. The approach/location is shown in the picture. A large splitter crack can be seen from the road. An ancient hex is stuck in the start of the crack, sling it and go. Pretty clean and props to the guys who cleaned it up.

Recently re-bolted, great climb, on arete until final moves to anchor on the face. 

A beautiful wave shaped splitter crack that makes a "C". Starts small and gets bigger before finishing with a BD #4 cam sized traverse.

Starts below and to the right of the dihedral. Work up the right side of the dihedral to a patina with some pockets. Follow the bolt line out right pulling a small roof. Stay away from the left overhanging detached block. I want to take it out, but it's in there pretty good and it's a little scary to trundle. Between the 6th and 7th bolts, avoid the large detached block sitting on a ledge. I wanted to take it out, but it would fall on the guy wire for the power lines. After the 7th bolt, head right out on to the face. Climb the face, staying close to the arete to the anchors.

Goldmine was named both as a nod to the history of the area as well as because of the unexpected quality of the rock and movement on this climb. The climb ascends the tallest buttress left of Zigzag and right of Hex Crack. It is located directly uphill from the end of the section of guardrail on the road that is closest to the pass. 

  Begin in the hand crack described under "location" 

  Ascend the hand crack, place a piece as high in the crack as possible, and then head out on the face using plentiful face holds (5.8 PG13). Aim for a ledge on the obvious ridge/arete.  

  Upon gaining the ridge/arete go up and either into the corner system to the right (5.10ish) or straight up the ridge/arete at about 5.8. Either way aim for the base of the obvious splitter finger crack on the face above. 

  Finish the route on the awesome splitter left leaning finger crack to a two bolt anchor just over the edge. 

  Double rope rap

This looks tough as shit. Haven't tried it.

The route goes up just left of the arete, with a lot of the right hand holds around the arete. Around the third bolt head towards the large flake. Follow the bolt line up to the anchors. Crux around the 2nd and 3rd bolts. The route gets pumpy, as the top is slightly overhung.

Dirty (for now) crack climb that goes from pseudo-slab to big off-width.   When I got to the off-width, I couldn't figure out how to jam it, and I was able to go out left onto the arete and just finish it that way. Possibly cheating...

This is a crack climb in a dihedral. The climb finishes at a large sloping ledge with a fixed pin and nut that are equalized. A good moderate route.

This is the easy and obvious crack in the dyhedral system. It is located at the top of the hill at the base of the cliff. Climb up through a short mantel move to a good ledge. clip the bolt with a long sling and continue up and slightly right towards the tree in the middle of the cliff face.

Fun short bouldery route. Follow the obvious crack line. The crack starts thin, pulls a little bulge on the left side of a small roof, then moves left where it widens. The grade comes from the crux moves, then goes 5 easier to the top.

This is the small crag just across the road from the black lakes on the Klondike highway. There are several quality bolted climbes here as well as multiple trad lines.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Black Lakes Crag