Start on the southwest corner. Not a great climb, lots of loose blocks everywhere, but this might be the easiest way to the summit.

1. Third-class up a loose gully behind and left of a huge block. end up at a big ledge piled high with more jenga blocks.

2. An awkward but brief overhang, and then up a long chimney system to another large ledge. The rock above transitions from Wingate sandstone to the Kayenta, which looks darker and chossier and does not form clean cracks.(5.10)

3. There are (or were, 3 decades ago) a couple of protruding, wedged flake vertical in orientation, maybe 50 feet up. Start just right of this. Head up a crack till it ends then make some face moves leftwards to reach the blocks (5.9, R). A couple more steep face moves above gain a large ledge.

4. Move left to find a third-class scramble to the summit.

Southwest Corner

East Face

This route climbs directly to the morning sun side of the notch, up the central, hopefully easiest, crack system.

Above the notch, a 5.9 hand crack leads up to the summit plateau.  Walk over to the summit tower and climb an easy crack tot he top.

The first ascent party did four pitches to the notch; 5.10 loose, 5.10 steep hand/fist crux, 5.9+, offwidth, and 5.9 hands.  Lots of loose stuff.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Candlestick Tower