Start left of the groove on flake features that take good gear. Work into the stemming groove. Thrutch past two bolts for the 10c crux. Continue up generally following the groove and wandering occasionally to follow the path of least resistance. Plenty of opportunities for gear and a few bolts. Bolt anchor at 150'

Clean Slate

Dibs

Knobby Knubs

Full Term Pachyderm

Blockader's Glory

Sly Mackaye

North Crackalacky

Slater Alligator

Amputation

Slate Night Booty

Learning Curve

Lanier Route

Clawhammer

Slither and Flap

Eye Candy

Slybrows (Nick's Groove)

Better Slate Than Never

The Handrail

Start on "The Handrail" and traverse far right after reaching the horizontal. Clip a bolt and a bolt on the traverse, reaching a shallow white groove with another couple of bolts.

Edge smear and smedge your way up the groove make sure you have some of the smallest TCUs and small C3s for when the bolts run out high up on the groove.

Angle up and right for the anchors at 150'

Starts furthest right on the ledge navigating a flakey edge groove. At 100 feet the route merges with Learning Curve's final bolt to a tree ledge. It can also be merged with Slither and Flap anchors for a 5.7.

P1: 5.8 100 Feet Start on Lanier Route past tow bolts. Climb clean knobs to another bolt and anchors.

P2: Head left of the anchors and undercling past the bulging elephant belly, then style the striking white groove.

P1: 5.4 120 feet: Climb the face starting 50 feet left of a dead tree and moss streak. Very easy climbing to the first anchors.

P2: 5.8 120 feet: Head straight up from the belay ledge past several gear options. Move up between two water grooves. Head right at the laurel ledge to anchors.

4 bolts + gear

Little bit of a run to the 3rd bolt. Crux is moving into the U shaped flake in the groove that is usually running water.

Don't let the water scare you, you can step over it. The route was put up while wet!

Awesome crack, but dirty at the bottom. Can make an indirect start on Lanier's route to the left going past two bolts and working right. Direct start is covered in moss.

Slab up to the first bolt then make a hard smear move to the V feature/ledge where you may find some gear. Trend up and left passing a 5.10 mantle move and more bolts through an interesting 5.11 face.

Bolt anchor at 100ft.

Climb fun knobs past a bolt to a water groove. Make the tougher under cling moves near the top of the route. Mossy at the bottom.

Scramble up easy terrain passing a mildly flaring horizontal with OK placements. Better gear can be found way out right but it should be back cleaned once you have reached the 1st bolt to cut down on rope drag.

-Sling bolt with 2' runner and traverse hard left for about 12 feet, with gear in the flakes(also sling long) this is the 5.9 crux. Mantle up and clip 2nd bolt.

-Cruise through the voluptuous 5.8 booty shaped groove to a long section of easy terrain. Pull one last steep crux with a bolt to the two bolt anchor.

Needs two ropes to get down in one rap. Also possible with one rope if you tension traverse down 30 feet and to the right about 50 feet to the "woulda coulda shoulda" anchors at 100' to ground.

P1-Start off the top of the skirt slab a little right of the first bolt, clip the bolt and traverse left into the groove for the low 5.10 crux. After a couple hard smears to get established in the groove pad up over continually easier terrain with lots of good pro. Gear belay in a crack at 100' or so

P2- continue over easy 5.8 features and a runout section of easy 5.6

Belay at ledge w/ small tree and back it up w gear.

P3- 50ft 5.6 corner. Rap from Trees.

The first route you come to on the Moderate Middle ledge. Start on good flakes past two bolts then head right up the groove. Finish on anchors to the right (100 feet), or up the groove to a tree rap (150 feet) or to the anchors up and left on Full Term Pachyderm 200 feet.

Belay off the ledge at the top of the skirt slab to keep the rope stretch down, the gear after the first bolt is there but right at the point where it feels scary.

Have your slab skills dialed for the smeary crux.

Smear past the first bolt up and right to two eyebrows, both take .75 pieces but be careful with the first one, its tricky and shallow. Move right to the groove and then break out left following the left fork of the "Y" groove through a steeper face with good pro and 5.9 climbing.

Double ring bolted anchor.

Lichen at the bottom with a bulge move about 60 feet up.

This is one of the finest crimpy slab routes in Pisgah! It does seep, but is typically dry in the afternoon around the time the wall enters the shade.

Start by climbing a somewhat dirty, but short and easy right facing corner to the roof. Move right a few feet and get pro under roof -- be sure to sling it long. From here, make cruxy moves up and left to a jug and a bolt. Step up and left to a small ledge at a left facing/arching corner.

From here step back right (a different route moves left) and climb excellent small crimps past a few more bolts.

At the 4th bolt, move back left and up to a ledge (the "Hook Up" finishes up the righthand groove). Climb the the crimpy left side of the wide streak/groove (crux) to a point at which it's possible to step right into the groove. A couple optional small tcu placements protect the section up to the anchor.

Note: The route can barely be rappelled with one 60 m rope but watch your ends! A 70 meter rope works best on all of the routes in this area.

-Same start as "The Handrail" but moves right on the horizontal ledge to the next groove w/ bolts clipping a circle head along the way.

-No hands smear up to the eyebrow features, then utilize the underclings to highstep-smear your way up with lots of body tension.

-Reach the good stance and clip, then savor the groovy edges up to the ledge.

-Gear can be found at the ledge but mind the rotten rock.

-From the ledge move up and right to find a finger size cam placement. Then either move left and pass another bolt to finish on "The Handrail" anchors at 120' or join "Dibs" and finish at 150'

Start at the featured rock left of "The Handrail" feature. Work up and eventually move left into the groove when the angle slabs out a little. Balance up past some gear and 3 bolts. Move left around the bulge. Clip the last bolt at 100' on "Clean Slate" and climb up to two bolt anchor at 150'

-Fun sustained route with several 5.11 cruxes, cool features and lots of variety.

-Scramble up the skirt slab. Place gear once the wall gets steep, move up and left for more gear to keep you off the ledge while making the move out right to the obvious ramping "handrail" feature.

-Traverse right on the horizontal to a bolt. SLING IT LONG before smearing up and left on a gaston/layback feature, moving into a pod.

-Get out of the pod and step an exfoliating crimpy face with bolts until you reach a ledge with a #2 placement.

-Muster your slab magic and trust heady smears past the last 2 bolts for the final 5.11 crux

-Place gear and make gradually easier slab moves up to the ring anchors.

single 70m gets you down to the base, 60m gets you to the skirt slab(with stretch) where you can walk off.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in East Slate Rock