Disco Superfly - Sit Start

Yesteryear

Snake Charmer

A Gentle Caress of the Thigh

King Snake

The Ulcer

The Hippos of Escobar

Veruca Salt

Post Hoc

Golden Ticket

Disco Lemonade Extension (formerly known as “left arete” and “Thug Slug”

Magnum Opus

Violet Beauregarde

Polyethylene Prince

Hazard Spaghetti

A Vulture's Vendetta

Obstacle Golf

Cornbread

The Everlasting Gobstopper

Magnum Opus Sit

Disco Lemonade (formerly known as “left arete” and Thug Slug”)

Disco Superfly

Sweet Seduction

Trade Secrets

Juxtaposition

Medicine Horse

War Monger

Swedish Fish

Bossa Nova

Careless Whisper

All That Jazz

Centrifugal Bumble Puppy

Hungry Hungry Hippos

Black Snake Moan

Golden Ticket Low

Triangle is My Favorite Color

Bootstrapped

Panic! At the Disco Left

Primordial Soup

Double Cherry Pie

Contrast Control

It's Classified

Crow's Nest

Gastric Juice

Bayesian Framework

Gamma Gazette

Platform Double Suede

Nectarine

Renewal

Nope Rope

Garter Snake

Belly Dancer

Bite Your Lip

Compound Berries

The Tantalizer

Malthusian Belt

Early Bird

Man of War

Disparity Dial

Cloud Atlas

Palmer Roof Traverse

Johnny Cake

Heathen Hymnal

Hypnopaedia

Oompa Loompa

Bird of Prey

Degrees of Freedom

The Roost

Blue Jay

Augustus Gloop

Beelzebub's Brussels Sprouts

Bossa Nova Extension

Metamorphosis

Iguana Drama

Fruit Ninja

Indigestion

TIMFC Left

Caution Ramen

Sum of Squares

The Rooster

Danger Noodle

Desperado

Hen House

Forbidden Fruit

Panic! At the Disco

Indigo Bunting

Stand start with left hand on a side-pull/undercling and right on a horizontal edge above head height. Two precision dead-points guard a the top out.

 There is potential for a sit start, but it would be proper hard.

SDS with both hands low on the slopey lip. Ride the lip on similar feature around the bulge, topping out on the left side of the prow. Nice movement.

Start matched on the big ledge as for Black Snake Moan, but immediately rock over onto the slab. Climb the slab to the point. This also serves as the best down climb for the Pyramid Boulder. 

SDS with left hand on a sloping side-pull and right on a low edge around the right arête. Power out of the overhang before using your thigh and worming through the dihedral to top out.

SDS with right hand on a small but positive flake and left on an opposing sidepull. Technical climbing leads up the face. Gain the arête and ride it to the apex to top out.

SDS with left hand on a slopey edge near the arête and right on a low undercling. Pull through the bulge with crimps before climbing the triangular face above and topping out.

SDS with left hand on a sloping edge, right on an undercling/pinch, and feet on the detached wall behind the main boulder. Power up through edges to a tough mantle. I don't think it would be possible without the detached wall, but you're welcome to try.

SDS with left hand on an undercling and right hand on ledge on the right arête. Climb the slab using vertical edges topping out just right of Violet Beauregarde.

Start crouched with a flat edge and pinch in the middle of the face. Work up to the lip, then traverse slightly right to mantle.

Stand start, left hand pinch, sharp edge for right hand. Find high SHARP edge, pull hard to the top. do not use larger holds to the right.

Start as for Disco Lemonade, with a left hand undercling and right hand edge. Climb the arête, but instead of rocking over at the sloper, continue to the apex and top out as for Double Cherry Pie.

Stand-start with opposing side-pulls on each side of the arête. Climb the arête, compressing more opposing edges with slick feet. Gain the lip and traverse right slightly to top out. Great movement on excellent features.

SDS matched on a beautiful slopeing rail. Climb up the slab on edges and crimps to a gentle top out. 

SDS with left hand on a side-pull and right on an undercling edge. Climb right then up, out of the overhang, topping out as for Beelzebub's Brussels Sprouts.

Stand start with two crimps. Climb small features up the slabby face to gain the arête. Ride the arête to the peak and top out.

SDS matched low on the arête. Slopey laybacking leads to a delicate rock-over to gain the slab and top out.

SDS with left hand on an edge on the arête and right on a low, opposing side-pull. Climb the face using edges, thin crimps and the arête to gain the sharp lip and top out.

SDS with left hand on a large flake and right opposing it on the arête. Climb up the face and mantle to gain the slab above.

SDS with left hand low on the arête and right hand in an opposing slot out wide. Work up the gently overhung face before tenuously trending right along the arête to reach the lip and top out. Sustained movement on a striking feature.

SDS with right hand on the large side-pull and left on a lower, sloping edge. An awkward pull into the stand leads to the better climbing above. The sit doesn't really bring much to the climb in my opinion.

Start crouched with an undercling for the left hand and large edge for the right. Climb the arête, topping out just shy of the apex.

Stand start with a left hand on a low side-pull and right on a two-finger undercling/sidepull. Power into a small edge before climbing similar features up the face and topping out. Balancey but not sustained.

SDS with matched on an edge low on the arête. Climb the arête using sloping features until it's possible to rock over and finish on the slab.

Stand Start with right hand on a low crimp and left low on the left arête. Bump the right hand to a higher crimp before working up the left arête until it's possible to jump for the right arête and compress the triangle feature to get to the mantle. Desperate and exciting climbing, but unfortunately dabby. Detached blocks are off.

SDS with left hand as low as possible on the good part of the arête and right on an opposing edge in the belly of the small overhang. Climb right through sharp edges to a technical reach to gain the top out jugs. Interesting moves on sharp holds with a dabby landing.

SDS with left hand on a small edge and right on an in-cut around the arête. Climb an awkward first move leads to increasingly easier movement on slopey ledges to the top out.

Stand start with a pocket in the left hand and a sloping edge for the right. Power up to gain the lip, then work slightly right before mantling and running up the slab to the top.

SDS with left hand in a pocket and right on the arête. Climb the overhanging lip until just past the first bulge when it is possible to rock over on to the slab and top out.

Stand start with left hand low on an undercling and right on a high side-pull. Climb up the swooping arête to a thought-provoking top out. Nice holds with good movement up a striking feature.

Laydown start with left hand on an edge and right on a low slopey pinch. Climb the ledgey overhang to a mellow top out. Climbs better than it looks.

SDS with left hand on a neat rail and right on an edge near the arête. Compress more edges and the arête to make upward progress and gain the lip before topping out. A technical yet powerful climb with more moves than you'd expect.

Use the juggy holds in the crack, tops out same as Gastric Juice.

Start matched on ledge near the right arête. Traverse left along the lip on sloping features until it is possible to top out along the left arête as for Garter Snake. Technical and resistant, if only it wasn't a traverse...

Start as for the Everlasting Gobstopper. A few burly moves of compression lead into Golden Ticket.

Stand Start with right hand on a pinch in the center of the face and left hand low on an undercling. Climb the face with big moves on slopey features, topping out at the point. The first moves are a bit awkward with the landing.

Start crouched on an undercling rail in the in the middle of the bulge. Power up to slopey features before surmounting the the bulge and topping out. Burly.

Start as for Panic! At the Disco with a right hand pocket and left hand undercling/crimp, but upon gaining the arête, continue up and left, topping out as for Disco Superfly.

SDS on two positive edges. Power up to a diagonal rail feature to surmount the lip and top out.

The bolder, direct version of Disco Superfly. Start as for Disco Superfly with left hand on an undercing/side-pull and right on a slopey edge. Stick the slot, then go big for the lip. A few tenuous moves lead over the lip and onto the slab above. Slightly easier movement then Disco Superfly, but far more bold as uncontrolled falls could end badly. 

Stand-start matched on the prominent ledge and climb the well-featured, vertical face to an exciting mantle. Tall with a less than ideal landing.

Start crouched with a left hand sloper and right in a low slot. Climb the face with cool features to big ledges beneath the top out. Nice movement on neat holds.

Stand start in the dihedral with left hand on the undercling-flake and right on an edge. Climb up and through the small dihedral with a giant fin feature to gain the slab and top out.

SDS with right hand low on the arête and left on a sloping edge. Climb the arête with crimps and poor feet to a crux dead-point before topping out. Fun movement, might be harder for short folks.

SDS with left hand on the small left arête and right on a side-pull. Compress up the overhanging prow, trending right at the lip to a spicy mantle. 

SDS with left hand on a two-finger edge and right on a low flat ledge. Climb up and left through a protruding edge to the lip and top out.

Start as for Disco Lemonade, but instead of following the arête, climb straight up and into the slab. 

SDS with a left hand undercling and right hand on a ledge. Work up the the face on poor holds to easier terrain before the top out. An unfortunately awkward start.

Start crouched with both hands on a slopey rail in the center of the face. A deadpoint to the lip leads to a tough mantle.

Stand start on two small edges. Climb the tall, imposing slab on similar features to the top. Moderate terrain at a good height.

SDS with left hand on an undercling pinch and right on the lip of the right arête. climb the triangle to a neat mantle and slabby top out.

Stand start matched on an in-cut rail climb neat features up the gentle slab and top out.

Start with left hand on the lip and right on a nearby in-cut. Traverse right, along the lip with small feet and occasionally slopey holds, not topping out until all the way right (above Careless Whisper).

Start as for Nectarine (undercling pinch and ledge), but continue climbing up the arête on edges, underlings, and slopers to a tough lip encounter and mantle. Slightly awkward with the block behind the overhang. Bring some biceps.

SDS with right hand on a sloping edge in the middle of the face and left on a side-pull beneath the arête. A couple moves of burly compression through the 45 degree overhang lead to an exciting deadpoint at the lip and a techy mantle. Short, powerful, and gymnastic. Detached blocks are off.

SDS with left hand in a low seam and right gastoning a rounded edge. Follow the protruding ledge feature to small edges before executing a crux toss to the lip. Fun movement on a unique feature.

Stand start with two opposing side-pulls. Climb the tall, featured slab and top out.

SDS with two small, flat edges. Climb the face on more small features to a big in-cut beneath the lip. Top out.

Start as for Contrast Control, but climb right immediately to a large ledge. Follow a diagonal rail up to a positive in-cut before executing the heady mantle at the top. Better landing and cooler movement than Contrast Control, but unfortunately dabby.

SDS with left hand on a slopey nub around the arête and right on a thin pinch. Using the arête, climb the face on thin holds, gaining two high crimps before moving left to top out. Tenuous and technical climbing with improbable beta.

Kinda of obscure but once you are on it an awesome adventure! Trverse the lip of the roof with sidepulls, heel and toe hooks to a hold on the slab alowing passage to the top of the pinicale.

SDS with left hand on the arête and right on an undercling/pocket. Climb up the arête until it's possible to rock over and follow the slab to the top.

SDS with right hand high, pinching the right arête and left hand very low on the left arête. Stellar compression leads to a perfect, extruded pinch. After gaining the pinch, trend right to positive holds on the right arête before rounding the corner and climbing the slabby face for another 12 feet and topping out. Inspired movement with excellent holds on an imposing feature.

SDS straddling the arête with opposing side-pulls. Compress more vertical edges to gain the lip before traversing right along the lip for a foot or two until it is possible to mantle.

SDS with right hand low on the arête and left on an opposing side-pull. Follow comfy features on the right arête to the lip before traversing left around the corner to nice feet and a mellow top out.

SDS with left hand in the crack beneath the overhang and right in a slot down and right. Follow the crack up and through the overhang to a tough lip encounter before riding it through slabby terrain to the top of the boulder.

SDS with left hand on a low in-cut and right on a two-finger pinch. For static climbers: climb directly up the face on flat edges. For dynamic climbers: dyno for the lip. After gaining the lip, execute a tough mantle.

Start with left hand on a triangular pinch and right on the arête. Climb the giant arête with positive holds with good feet over a perfect stepped landing. Top out at the apex. Despite being 25 feet tall, you're never more than 5 feet off a pad, incredible!

SDS with left hand on a side-pull and right on a small crimp. Climb right and up the vertical face through a neat undercling and top out.

Start crouched with left hand on a low, but positive in-cut and right on an undercling. Balance right through the near blank face to a complex of edges. From there, delicately work up to the lip. 

SDS with left hand on a side-pull in the overhang and right on an opposing edge on the arête. Climb left along the arête before working through the overhang topping out. Unassumingly powerful.

Start as for Bossa Nova, but instead of topping out early after the bulge, ride the lip all the way left to the apex before mantling. A bit awkward with the stepped landing, but more full value than the original.

Sit start with right hand on crimp, left on blocky pinch feature below. Tension up to a small two finger edge out left and shoot to the lip before moving left and topping out. Short, but quite heinous.

SDS matched on the prominent rail feature. Climb right on more edges until it's possible to gain ledges higher up on the slab and rock over the lip. Finish up on the featured, low-angle terrain to top out.

SDS with both hands compressing the protruding prism feature. A few powerful moves lead up the slightly overhung face to a delicate top out.

Start crouched, matched on the prominent ledge. Mantle up and climb the delicate slab to the top out.

Start crouched with an undercling in the left and low edge for the right. Climb the hollowed out face on small edges to gain the sloper halfway up the face. From the sloper, finish on TIMFC. The left arête is off.

SDS with left hand in a small slot and right hand on a positive in-cut. A few powerful moves lead out of the bulge and onto the slab. Follow the arête up and right to the peak to top out.

Start as for Degrees of Freedom, but climb right, into Post Hoc.

SDS on two slopers at the lip of the roof. Awkwardly worm your way around the bulge into The Roost. 

SDS with left hand on the arête and right hand low on an opposing, vertical sloper. Climb the featured right-angling arête with a bit of compression to a crux about 2/3rds the way up revolving around a sloper and a couple crimps. Once through the crux, head to big ledge features and top out at the point. Tall with great movement.

SDS with two flat edges. Move left to a neat pinch, then up to slopey ledges and top out.

SDS on two edges. Climb the slabby face on ledges and in-cuts, topping out at the peak.

SDS with left hand on the low arête feature and right on a low undercling. A few powerful lock-offs and some technical footwork lead to compression up the double arête feature. Nice movement.

Start with right hand in a vertical pocket and left on an undercling-crimp. A few powerful moves lead up to the arête. Climb the arête to the apex, topping out as for Double Cherry Pie.

SDS matched on a ledge. Climb right though sloping features before topping out.

A mixed cluster of free-standing blocks and talus beneath the east end of Slugg's Bluff. The high density of climbing in conjunction with bullet-hard stone and a short approach make this a prime bouldering destination. Climbs range from 8 to 25 feet in height, but often have rocky or uneven landings, so bring more pads if you can. The rock is quartzite, a metamorphosed sandstone that has almost no friction. Climbing generally occurs on sloping edges and arêtes.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Slugg’s Bluff Bouldering