Well bolted beginner route with a non traditional start move. Side pulls, under clings, lay backs.   A little background: on my forays up to Cooper Spur I would call out to what I thought was an owl hooting at me; four hoots and I would respond with four, this would go on until I couldn't hear anymore 1/2mi or more away. Turns out it was a Blue Grouse and it is their mating call; no wonder they kept up so long!

Blue Grouse

Bulge Boogie

Eaglet

You, Me, and Everyone We Know

Golden Eagle (Eaglet roof extension)

It's All Good

Felsschlüpfer (Rock Wren)

Trad Dad

Kestrel (no need to speed)

Osprey

A bit difficult above the first bolt, crux is just above the fourth bolt where the feet get bad, and then a bit of a burn getting to the anchors. This is the bird I named my daughter after, one of my favorites while climbing, joyfully darting around the cliffs.

Fun, aesthetic movement through several crux bulges. Don't get burned by leaving your medium nuts and cams at the base.

This is the route leading up to the big roof. Please start close to the base of the Kestrel route and tiptoe across the blocks at the bottom leaving the vegetation in tact. The route rolls up an easy slab to a small roof above the 4th bolt and the crux, after a bit more you arrive under the massive roof and a set of anchors.

Clip the first glue-in bolt pointing down on a roof, then pull over it via a right hand finger crack, revealing fifteen meters of .10- climbing to a good rest below an attractive, just off vertical blank slab. There are potentially several ways through this obstacle, but if you climb directly through the slab instead of sneaking left or right of this offset, give yourself a cookie. 

  I climbed this recently about a year after the FA. I think in retrospect that this might be .10+. I'm interested in other opinions of the grade. My sense is that it's sort of soft at .11-, but it's not inaccurate to label it thus.

Just past the anchors to Eaglet comes a 8'x10' horizontal roof. There is one bolt in the roof and one on the lip.    Its mid 12 at the moment, lets get some more folks on it and get a better consensus. Thxs

Mixed Route.  Start as Trad Dad, check your courage and eventually move left to bolts and back to the Trad Dad anchors.

Sustained 5.7 moves for about 2/3 of the route where is eases.  Pro can be a puzzle.

The route can be climbed a number of ways giving various difficulties. The first crux is at the 6' plate going straight up is a balancing act and crimpy, (difficult for shorter folks) the top has various lines and ranges from low to high 10. As always if you are in the moss you are off route. The first ascencionist got a speeding ticket driving home(and no it was not me this time).

This climb features unique climb for the cliff, and should be on your list for sure! Solve the puzzling crux, and save some energy for the finish!

This is the 3rd wall, and hosts some great new routes, including a burly roof line.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in (3) The Aviary