Just left of Mr. Sandman is a steep, short corner leading to a ramp and steep corner. This is Tooth Fairy. Climb the initial corner making hard moves (crux) to gain the ramp. Go right up the ramp to a steep corner. Climb steep rock up the corner past several bolts on good holds up to the anchor. Excellent and varied climbing on good rock.

Tooth Fairy

Golden Slumber

Bedtime Story

Something Obscure

Sleepless in Boulder

Sleepless Child

The Art of Dreaming

Caffeine Buzz

Bobsled Direct Start aka War Sled

War On Freedom

Lucky Strikes

Not So Obscure

Chore Boy

Morpheus

Opener

Lucky-Freedom

The Daily Grind

Smell the Coffee

Wake Up Call

My Buddy

Napster

The Bobsled

Mr. Sandman

Snooze Button

Climb a short finger crack (crux), just right of Napster to a ledge. Get an optional belay here or continue straight up a somewhat right-trending, bushy crack and corner system, passing two old fixed pins along the way. Stepping right onto the face whenever things get bushy makes for a more pleasant outing. Belay with great care at a large tree at the top of the cliff with lots of loose rock.

Descent: the easiest descent involves traversing uphill to the tree above

The Daily Grind's

second pitch. A short (20') rappel takes you to the

DG's

anchors. With an 80m rope, you can rap 40m to the ground from here or stop at the

Napster

anchors.

Golden Slumber starts just left of Sleepless in Boulder. Power up a series of cool lay-backing and face moves past several bolts to a short left-facing corner. Place gear in the corner, gain a big hold and clip a bolt below a thin crack. Climb the crack using gear and then climb past two bolts (crux) to a two-bolt anchor.

This route starts on the far left (west) side of Plotinus Wall. Scramble up the gully to a short bolted wall. Just left of a handsize crack in a steep wall follow a line of bolts over a bulge. Gain the slab and climb past several bolts on good rock. Reach a ledge and follow bolts over a steep section into a short corner. Follow the corner to a large ledge and the anchor on the left. Excellent route with great protection.

Sleepless in Boulder starts just left of The Art of Dreaming. Climb up a short corner to an obvious horn. Power up steep rock, laybacking to a good stance. Make nice face moves and continue up the steep face past several bolts to cool moves up and over a bulge to a hard move on a small arete. Climb past the arete using a thin crack on the left and arete on the right. Float to the anchor.

This route is up near the far left side of Plotinus Wall. It can take gear from small to fist sized here and there, with some poor rock and flaring placements causing an occasional runout. The route climbs just right of Bedtime Story, out a handcrack through a bulge, uncomfortably close to a small evergreen, then up the wall of cracks, flares and face holds towards the top. The anchors of Bedtime Story are a good cop-out alternative to ending up on top with a long walk back to the base. Over time, this route might get more traffic and clean up, but for now it is blah... and a dirty blah... at that.

The Art of Dreaming starts just right of Sleepless in Boulder and climbs just below the obvious large right-leaning arch.

Climb up into a short right-facing corner. Clip the second and third bolt, traverse right across the face (technical crux) on small holds, making hard moves up to a small overhang. Tackle the roof (5.12a) and climb up beautiful rock to a two-bolt anchor.

Climb either

Smell the Coffee

or the

Daily Grind

.  From the anchors, climb up and to the right on the face.  The crux comes right after the third bolt.  Move over the slight bulge on small edges.  There is nice exposure and great views from the anchors at the top.

This route can be combined with either of the two previous routes, just be sure to bring enough draws.  A long draw is recommended at the bolt at the first set of anchors if you are combining these two climbs.

To get down you need either two ropes to get to the ground, or one 60 meter rope.  You can reach the anchors at the top of Napster, and make a second rappel to the ground.

Start just right of the "Bobsled". Make a series of difficult bouldering moves past three bolts. Clip the third bolt on the Bobsled with a long sling and finish with the Bobsled. Great climbing.

Vaino Kodas & I bolted it in 2003, and it wasn't until years later that I redpointed it with Stuart Ritchie belaying me.  I thought there already was info on this website about this route. I guess not.

A 5.12 start with a left heel hook past 2nd bolt leads to easier climbing. This is also the direct start to

Bobsled

(aka: Warsled). Gain a small ledge rest.  Continue up a vertical face that becomes progessively harder. A big span from a sidepull-undercling to a crimp leads past 7th bolt. Here I was forced left below 8th bolt to

Bobsled's

right-facing corner.  After making a move up the corner, get into a wide stem.  Reach a thin seam crack with left hand & then a shallow, down-flaring fingerlock in a seam with the righthand & move back right onto the face.  The crux is the next two moves with off a rounded lieback & a sloping hold.  Continue with a dyno to a pocket followed by an awkward finish. To my knowledge, someone has climbed the route directly up the face past 8th bolt at 5.13b/c without stemming to the

Bobsled

dihedral. That individual suceeded a few months after my first free ascent. I thought I would find the info on this site.  They deserve credit for being the first to climb the direct line.

Just right of

The Bobsled

is Lucky Strikes, an overhanging technical route with several crux moves and great gear. Clip the first bolt off a ledge and make several hard cranks up a bulging wall. Follow a lines of bolts up a steep wall gaining a ledge and good rest. Make one more hard move off the ledge to the anchor.

Climb the obvious crack system 6' left of Smell the Coffee to the STC anchors.

Chore Boy starts just right of Snooze Button and uses the first bolt of that route. Clip the first bolt and angle into a blocky, shallow corner. Make a weird move left over a small overhang and crank up a steep wall on good holds to a shallow crack. Climb the crack up to and over a small overhang (gear) and reach a good ledge below a steep headwall. Power up the steep headwall past three bolts on good edges and sidepulls to the anchor.

Several hundred pounds of rock and dirt were removed from this route. The route is now cleaned of loose rock and most of the dirt and should clean up nicely after a few rain storms.

Morpheus is a long right-facing corner on the left side of Plotinus Wall. Climb in from the left, clip a bolt and climb up to the start of the corner. Climb up the corner past two bolts, placed mid-size gear and a gain a ledge. Clip a bolt and make a hard move up to a small ledge and a steep headwall. Clip the first of four bolts and climb steep rock up to a two-bolt anchor. Great route!

This is a 2 bolt, 5.10, direct start to "

Tooth Fairy

" that is more consistent with the difficulty (5.9 to 5.10) past the climb's bouldery 5.11c start. A stick clip may be useful for the 1st bolt. Climb up near vertical rock to the 1st bolt, and move right & up to 2nd bolt. Pull onto a low-angle slab, & join "

Tooth Fairy

" at its 3rd bolt.

This is a link-up.

Climb the first 3 bolts of ‘

Lucky Strikes

’, then traverse left and up past a bolt that links the two routes, to the 4th bolt of ‘

War On Freedom

’. Finish with the final 8 bolts of ‘

W.O.F.

’ to the anchor.

A big thanks to

tbol

for getting this beauty all rigged up!

Start just right of "Smell the Coffee" and climb up to a small overlap. Make a dicey move up a thin seam to a good ledge. Tend left up to the anchor. From the anchor, an optional second pitch is off the right, then straight up through one 5.8 move and a lot of 5.7.  If you do this, rap to the top of Napster, then down.

A nice addition to the cliff.

Downhill from

Snooze Button

find a clean slab with bolts. Climb this, continue up and over a small roof, then sprint to the anchors. The crux is getting past the second bolt: straight up is significantly harder, traversing left works well, and some people seem to end up climbing a bit right instead. Excellent.

Just right of

Morpheus

, climb up to a left-angling crack and figure out how to stand up on the large ledge. Move over a bulge to finish on a great slab.

Start as for "Bedtime Story" and climb up to the fourth bolt on that route. Gain a ledge and traverse left to a cold-shut. Belay here or use a long sling and climb up orange rock on good holds to a ledge. Gain the ledge and crank over a bulge and gain a near-vertical slab. Crank up the nice slab past four bolts to a two-bolt anchor.

Right of

Smell the Coffee

is a bolted, right-angling flake system. Power up the flake to a small roof, surmount it, then dice over to the anchors. Deceptive.

The Bobsled start right of The Art of Dreaming and left of Lucky Strikes. Climb up a short face behind a large pine to a bolt. Clip the bolt and begin a series of continuous moves up into a short right-facing corner above a roof. Follow the line of bolts up the corner past cool moves following steep rock to the anchor.

Just left of Golden Slumber at a pine tree is the start of Mr. Sandman. Climb up angling ramps to a bolt. Clip the bolt and make a nice move to good holds. Continue up steep rock on good holds past several bolts to a short, steep corner. Climb up the corner clipping bolts on the left to a hard move to gain a ledge and the anchor. Excellent climbing on steep rock.

About 50 feet right of

Morpheus

(large, right-facing corner) are two bolted route on a clean slab. Snooze Button is the route on the right side of the slab. Climb up the steep slab past on good holds to a bulge. Crank over the bulge (crux) and follow a line of bolts up the beautiful slab to the anchor. Great climbing on soild and beautiful rock.

Description

Protection

Routes in Left Side