A clean, solid hand crack in the dihedral to the right of the Last Unicorn.

Bleed Proof

The Last Unicorn

Stonehinge

The Great Unknown

Warpath

Cole-Lewis

The Bilderberg Conference

P1: Climb up about 25 feet to a bolt (a small sling on a horn can protect getting to bolt). Head back down a bit, then begin a long traverse left (10b or so, R) until you can climb up to a 2nd bolt. Above, climb the obvious shallow, right facing corner past 3 more bolts (some gear required too) to a large ledge and 2 bolt belay. It is possible to rappel from here (100++ feet) or make 2 shorter rappels down Warpath (5.12c) which lies on the face to the left.

P2: Probably less done than the 1st pitch. Head pretty much straight up past 2 bolts and a fixed pin on steep and somewhat loose face (10b/c R).

From summit, downclimb right, then make a short rappel off top of Lion's Share on The Super Block, then head back left to the base. Alternatively, downclimb left and scramble down then up back to base.

This route is on the distant NW side of the Superdome. Best approached from the Atom Smashers area. See the Bartlett guide.  The crux is low down and looks a lot like the crux of Hot Rocks, i.e. thin and hard to protect. You have to put the pro right where your fingers go.

Like the name suggests, this climb is both great and unknown. While other parties are lined up at the base of Bird on a Wire and Walk on the Wild Side, you can have this multipitch classic all to yourself. It's remote and adventurous feeling, yet it also offers solid rock and decent protection. The panoramic view from the summit is one of the best in Joshua Tree.

The Great Unknown ascends the large pillar on the southwest face of the Superdome, and then continues up the face to the summit. There are a few different ways to climb the pillar, which vary in difficulty and quality. Note that this route description and gear recommendations are for climbing the left side of the pillar.

Approach the base of the pillar by bushwhacking to a small ledge under a larger ledge.

P1 - The larger ledge is guarded by a "bouldering problem" which you'll likely want to rope up for. Climb a short crack/flake with a couple tricky moves down low. This can be linked with P2 with some added rope drag. 30 feet. 5.9

P2 - Chimney up to a stance below a small roof. A #5 BD Camalot or equivalent is very useful here as your first piece of gear. Move left around the roof and continue to jam, stem, lieback, and otherwise climb the left-facing corner all the way to its end. Belay at a small ledge with a 2 bolt belay. 100 feet. 5.9

P3 - Traverse left from the belay to reach the first bolt and then continue up past 4 more. Putting slings on some of the bolts will help you with rope drag later. After the 5th bolt, make a short traverse left to reach a large flake. Either continue up the flake until you move into a low-angle seam, or make another traverse left to pull over a small overhang. Either finish offers easy climbing. 190+ feet (depending on where you stop to belay). 5.10a

P3 (var.) - Instead of traversing left at the start, climb straight up from the belay past 2 bolts and then move left to rejoin the climb. 5.10?

To descend, head east along the top of the formation (towards the Super Block). Walk down an exposed 3rd/4th class slab and then carefully step across a very deep chimney that separates the Superdome from the Superblock. Walk to the southern corner of the Block and rap from the bolted anchors atop Lion's Share (another excellent 5.10 to do while in the area).

Located on the steep and sunny South face of the Superdome, this wonderful route offers great movement and a cool head to send it cleanly. It begins with a steep and bouldery overhanging face leading to a difficult crux at the 3rd bolt. Above lies more 5.11+ terrain leading to a small stance. The rarely done 2nd pitch is full on 5.11d edging and crimping leading to the anchors of Last Unicorn.

Pitch 1 (5.8) climbs a short crack up to a large ledge.  Pitch 2 (5.10B) goes up a steep lieback (crux) with somewhat flaky rock, and then runout 5.8 face climbing up to the belay.  Pitch 3 (5.10A) goes up a rather runout face.  A short 5.8 crack pitch takes you to the top.  Scramble down a long ways and do a short rappel to the ground.

Down and left from Stone Hinge, climb a thin hand crack, then reach left into a hand crack.

Description

Protection

Routes in The Super Dome