A full value 100' of varying offwidth skills: the first half is mostly chimney and squeeze chimney climbing, while the second half offers a few jams with stem moves inside the chimney, transitioning into either airy face climbing/span moves just outside the wide, perfectly parallel slot finish...or body-gastoning/squeeze chimneying inside.

Sun Wall Right

First Crux

Sun Wall Left

Sun Wall Middle

An excellent route composed of fairly sustained climbing requiring good footwork, jamming skills, and even some OW near the start.  Good rests come every so often, however, and the route is well-protected with gear.  I found some of the rock up high to be a little dirty and exfoliating.  Crux is half-way to the top and airy/overhanging.

Climb the smooth black hand crack to a ledge. The crux is found as the crack jogs right then up. Continue straight up on chossy, lichen-laden rock to a flaring off-hands chimney to a large ledge below a final roof. Belay the second from here then exit right into a brushy gulley. It's possible to continue up the final roof (~15ft) then walk off but the rope drag with be considerable.

This beautiful and sustained finger crack follows a awkward offwidth crack into a clean splinter finger crack up a smooth head wall. With pefect finger locks and lye backs, this is by far one of the best cracks i have done!!!

There are 2 ways of doing this climb which are:

1. Start from the left and traverse to the right into the finger crack

2. Or take the direct start on the tricky offwidth that makes the 10c grade pretty stiff. Though definitly the best choice if ur up for a challenge.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 8 - Sun Wall Area