Sit start with at least 1 hand on a right-facing block and poor feet, go left through the low crux to better holds. Angle back right to the lip to top out, or move left into Shock Treatment, similar grades for the finishes.

Routine Expedition

Shock Treatment

Botox Treatment

Pylon (aka Sleazestack Direct)

Sit start with left hand on the arete and right hand on a poor undercling. Make an off-balance move to reach right out onto the face to a nice edge, then continue up using crimps and edges.  If you continue using the left arete after the start move, then it's V2.

Sit start with good knobby holds about 3 feet off the ground. Lip traverse left using a nice variety of holds. Crux is about midway through. Finish to the left of the high point of the boulder for full value, or you can top out as per Shock Treatment.

Stand start on the arete with good holds at strange angles. Continue up the arete through the crux with good edges, sidepulls, and underclings to the highest point. You can step slightly right to good feet once your hands hit the high point.  A tricky sit start adds a couple fun moves, V1+.

This triangular boulder in the Gimmes area offers half a dozen fun climbs.  It is the northern of the 2 boulders commonly referred to as the Gimmes, and is sometimes called North Gimmes Boulder. Most of the problems are on the west face, so they will get sun from midday on.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Pylon Boulder