If you enjoy the slab climb Freaky Stylee you are sure to enjoy Arbor Day.  The difficulties of the climb greet you early on as you're forced to negotiate some balancy moves above a sharp little tree.  Be sure to stay level headed as you clip an old rusty pin and make your way to a good rest.  For the next few moves your hands are on good sidepulls while feet are on smears.  After finishing this difficult sections look above you to see that you have another 15 feet of climbing to the last bolt.  Finish by traversing another 10 feet to the anchor of Fragile Ego System.

This route is a little frightening with some bad fall potential.  It might be smart to top rope the route off of Fragile Ego System before deciding to lead it.

Arbor Day

Fly Girls

Foutre la Doigt

Fragile Ego System

Wild Seed

Doer, Not A Critic

Muscle Belly

The Chameleon

Quickie in the Molar

Gonad the Bavarian

Make your way to the large ledge. Mantel up awkwardly and move up then traverse right before heading start up to the shuts.

Great route with interesting moves.  Start below a 3 ft wide roof about 10 ft off the ground.  Climb up to gain an undercling under the roof, pull roof to reach a great shelf.  Continue up and left climbing the face to reach a shallow right facing corner.  Follow corner to a large stance, climbing eases up considerably from here on.  Follow the face to the top.

The crux is up higher. Going from the third to chains is the rough part. A few very interesting moves using opposing forces will help make quick work of this. Going from the fourth to the chains is a bit chossy, lots of moss.

Start by grabbing the jug below the first bolt and smearing your way up to a stance.  Continue up the slabby face.  The crux is reaching the 4th bolt where the face turns slightly overhanging.  Pull up past this bolt to the best holds on the climb and follow up to the anchors.  This route is pretty solid for the grade and it requires the leader to make some delicate moves with your feet a foot or two above the bolts.  Great climbing, don't pass this up if you are in the area!

A great route for the grade, worth coming to the area to do.  Climb up very easy rock to reach the high first bolt.  Continue up right of crack system over a slabby section until under roof.  Traverse right about 8 ft.  Climb straight up over steep rock(crux), following great jugs all the way to the shuts.

This climb has lots of thin moves and some friable rock, but it's well worth doing.   Start by climbing up on the right side of the arete.  Stay on the right face for a few thin moves and then head back left toward the arete.   From here, use small footholds and crimps on the right side of the arete aiming for a small horizontal crack (crux).  Once you reach the horizontal, look to the left side of the arete for positive crimps and climb the arete to the finish.

A good warm up for the other climbs on this wall.  Climb up the juggy face, making use of a right leaning ramp at the half way point.  Continue straight up. The crux is the final moves to reach the shuts.  Figuring out the crux sequence may be a bit tricky.

Traverse in from the left past a small gear placement and clip a very high first bolt (which can be stick-clipped or equipped by lowering from Muscle Belly).  Unlock the technical and strenuous crux between the 2nd and third bolt then stay on your feet for micro-crimping past one more bolt and a moderate runout to the Muscle Belly chains.

A second pitch continues straight up and encounters another 5.12a crux but we did not climb it.  The latest New River guidebook notes that the top pitch is not equipped with anchors.

The first pitch is a great little route in its own right and will stay dry in the rain.

This is a short route, but fairly sustained climbing to the 4th bolt.  Climbs like a trad route.  Start by traversing in from the left under the first bolt.  Continue up using shallow cracks and corners.  It's difficult to find a position to get your hands free to clip the bolts!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 5) Wild Seed Area