A phenomenal route that makes this cliff well worth the arduous and long hike in.  

  This beauty ascends the prominent blue tufa feature that starts about 15' above the ground and continues for about 40' to an obvious right facing corner crack, ending on a ledge above the crack.  

  Boulder out the powerful, devious moves directly below the roof to the first bolt, then cast off on some of the best limestone in Nevada for the next 60' or so. (ignore the bolt out left of the roof- i think this is used if you use the pine-tree to get to the first bolt of the route proper). 

  You MUST pre-clip the first bolt on this route- the opening moves are insecure and powerful, definitely the crux of the route (although not the only 5.12 moves!). Despite this weird bolt setup, the rest of the route is very well protected.

Satellite

Nothing is Easy

Powderhouse

Sylvia's Slab

Baby Face

1999

Cool Places

Not the highest quality rock or climbing, but it's about right in difficulty if you're jumping straight on this one without resting from the hike.

Access route to upper ledge on right side of cliff. Not a route to climb for fun. Often skipped for a scramble up a log and then a crack system to the right, which is harder than it looks. Safest route to the upper ledge.

Fun route up a beautiful powder blue corner. Good footwork and crack climbing experience count for a lot on the smooth, powdery, diamond-hard limestone jams. Fun face climbing as you exit the corner and head for the chains.

Short, crimpy and fun. A little sharp, but it's a worthwhile tick while you're on this side of the crag.

Good climbing with some steeper-than-it-looks moves. Good pump, broken holds at crux have moved grade up in several people's opinions to 11d/12a.

Another classic of the crag, this route ascends the obvious, pocketed blue streak above an obvious ledge system about 150' right of Powderhouse.  

  Start on a large cheaterstone to reach the first hold, rock over and crank through the relatively easy terrain that leads to the ledge at 35' or so. Once on the ledge, scope out the pockets above and prepare for battle- getting to the corner crack above will test your pocket skills at the grade.  

  Once in the corner, the crux is behind you, but dont let your guard down- its not exactly a walk to the chains.  

  PLEASE LEAVE THE DOUBLE CARABINERS ON THIS ANCHOR (or replace them with quicklinks and carabiners- single carabiners will twist your rope!).

North facing cliff high on the flanks of Mummy Mountain (just past Charleston, part of the same ridge system). Good quality limestone with some not-worth-the-hike routes, some fun, ok routes, and some REALLY good ones. Showpiece routes include Satellite 12b and Cool Places 12a. Routes tend to be mostly vertical; no cave action here, although at ten thousand feet, even slabby feels pretty steep! Always bring a jacket to this cliff-I've had snowball fights in June with friends in between climbs. Perfect for solitude and hot weather.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Icehouse