The most obvious (and about the tallest) line on Mamacoke! follow the hand cracks up and left with good foot and handholds pretty much the whole way. Take a break and relax your nerves on the mezzanine (little platform 3/4 the way up) and then top out on big boulders!

Mama Mia

Mama Bear

Zoo-Wee Mama

Baby Steps

Guilty Feet

The refreshing taste of some granite slopers among these hand cracks, you can't be no wimpy kid if you're gonna try this route. Work your way up some deep (but not super positive) slopers until you reach the hand crack that leads up to the mezzanine, then top out on the over the same boulders as Mama Mia.

Just about the highest route on the island. Some good face climbing along some shallow cracks! Complete with heel hooks and a fun top out! Crux is either reaching for the 2nd crack or the final few moves of the face (if you climb the face the whole way)

 NOTE: After recent rain this is probably the best route to do on the main cliff as it doesn't drip/seep for long.

The crux of this route is a few moves after reaching the first ledge. There is some interesting footwork involved with pulling the crux and this is the only move that would warrant a 5.7 rating. This route is very fun to climb with some jugs littered throughout. Be careful of the seeping rock which might affect parts of this climb. It's best to wait a few days after it rains when the soil is dryer.

This route seems simple at first glance. After getting to the first ledge, it becomes apparent that it might be a bit harder than you first thought. Take your time to feel out the rock and take advantage of whatever the rock gives you (there's not much). Two "hidden" crimps make this much easier. One, off to the left that works as a nice side pull to supplement the steep, angled foot placement. The other one is up and right which helps the climber reach the prominent second crack of Mama Bear. There is challenging foot placement throughout that could make or break this route. The difficulty of this route will vary based on the height of the climber.

The highest feature on the island with huge hand sized cracks and grippy gneiss. There are plenty of fun routes each with many interesting variations. Most routes on the Main Mama Wall are between 25-35ft high. The top of the cliff can be accessed by scrambling up some blocky chunks of rock on the far right side of the wall. Top ropes can be set up from a variety of trees and rocks on the top of the cliff. Climbing is mainly done using a variety of cracks and seams which range from beautiful jugs to heinous slopers. A 20-30m static rope will allow you to climb anything here, while certain routes can be top roped using just a few slings.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Main Mama Wall