Beautiful and Savage Country is a new route on the right side of the Mileski Wall, situated in the black streak to the left of

"Barnacle Bill" on some bullet stone

This begins on 3 bolts of easy terrain up a ramp before the route takes on a series of technical movement on incuts, pockets, and slopers before reaching a good shake/rest.

After copping a rest at the ledge, maneuver up some more technical terrain on decent holds while a building pump.

The route culminates with a rad final crux sequence before the chains, featuring a techy gaston, pocket, and some choice foot holds.

This route is one of the best at the crag. It could use some more traffic to clean up some small foot holds here and there, but it is not to be missed when visiting God's Crag.

*The crux bolt hanger is already coming loose as the nut has backed off a bit. If you find yourself reading this, please bring a wrench, and tighten it.

Beautiful and Savage Country

Woman Thing

The Rainmaker

The Renaissance Man

Fool's Gold

C.C.V.

Unknown

Man Thing

Barnacle Bill

Brother's Cup

Follows the black streak up the overhanging wall

This is a rope-stretcher. Use a 70 meter rope.

I am only adding this because it isn't listed. Jonathan Siegrist in 2020 put this up to the right of

Renaissance Man

. He said it's 40m long, which makes no sense to me, because a 70m should cover everything on this wall, but I didn't feel like getting into an argument on youtube about it, so someone can clarify if it is in fact more than 35m. I do not remember anything requiring more than a 70m rope at God's Crag at all.

Otherwise, this is a super clean route if you can catch it dry. Like most stuff at God's Crag, grades are generally stout, and this is unlikely to receive a lot of traffic.

If you want to see his video, it's available here, very much beta in it if that's any consideration, but beautiful filming of the area and several routes:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5fUZQ1iHu10

.

The climb done in memory of Jack Mileski, the wall's name sake. This route can be done in one long pitch or 2 pitches, 5.13b and 5.12c/d respectively.

Climb hard moves on a steep section just after the anchors of

C.C.V.

, then keep it together to the chains.

One of the shortest routes on the wall and farthest to the left before the cave area.

Features fun moves on tack like stone, and a spanny compression crux.

Probably one of the better routes around.

If it were at rifle, it'd be a classic...

This climb is really hard to read and has tons of slopers and off balance moves. The rock is vibrant orange and very textured due to the calcification from the waterfall. There is a midway anchor on it, and from what I heard, the second pitch may have never been freed.

Strenuous climb that follows a broken crack and corner to an overhang. Traverse left and go over the roof to the anchors.

Small boulder problem low that leads to a choss-ledge rest- then good sequence of flowing moves that negotiates a hollow tufa, some pockets, and a dihedral finish.

*Hardware could use an update on this one, as well as a crowbar to some loose holds that have weakened over the years

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Mileski Wall