Super, super classic 5.11a. Lots of funky moves, but tons of fun. Work straight up until you hit a dihedral and then start heading right towards the large hueco. Pull out the left side of this and then trend up right again through the crux to the anchors.

Moneyshot

Whoa nelly

Magnum P.I.

Synchronization of the Gyration aka Synchro

D.A.R.E (Dardanelle Aid Route)

Annihilated

Easy Tiger

The Dardanelle Dihedral

Gateway Drug

Beach Boulder 1

Catfished

Finger-Blaster

This Is How I Die

Rebel Yell

Miami Vice

Antichrist

Lose Yourself

Antichrist Superstar

Chick Magnet

Orange Kush

Smoke Ice

Stark Naked

You have two options for the start: either pull a long gaston move from the right or start left on the arete. Climb up to a sloping ledge. Grab the best rest you can, and then fight up and left to a heartbreaker dead point move. Pull a hard reach over the roof and you've got it.

Hard start, fun finish. Named after the best dog in the world, Nelly Cook. Start in the left facing slab and move into super fun moderate climbing with unique holds.

Dardanelle's right-most line; Start in a dihedral and fight up to the hueco where a kneebar rest awaits. After the rest endure technical moves to a heady lunge before the anchors.

The Aid Route had no attention for years, We decided to free climb the beast. Hard 5.11 climbing to weird off Angle sloper dyno.

Really fun climbing to the First Anchors (5.12b)to an in your face Crux at the 2nd Anchors

The new designated "warm up" for Dardanelle Rock.

This overhanging corner begins about 30 feet left of the two Denture Adventures. ​Its steepness may be a bit intimidating for the beginner leader but, in all actuality, abundant big feet and perfect jams create a surprisingly moderate passage.

The easiest sport route at Dardanelle, and an okay warm up. Follow the first three bolts up the low-angle arete and then step left into the dihedral, where the climbing gets significantly easier. The chains are located on top of the wall at the top of the route, and a pain to reach for shorter climbers.

Bouldering problem on the beach. Sit start with some obvious chalked holds. Move around the arete to the left for the top out. Crux move is finding good hands near the top.

One star for adding an eliminate problem.. but stopped in and got bored. Same start hold on the beach bolder as the other. Go up and right the arete has a sloping crimp, grab and fire for the top lip, don’t cheat the feet or going for the small right hand around in the dihedral. Foot rail in off use something else. Have fun. Come around the face after catching the lip.

The start is a stand-start hand match on obvious chalked holds about 7ft high in the middle of the rock. This route is a traverse to the left most side without a "top out". The finish is about 5-6 ft below the top of the rock, with an obvious outlet to stand on. If you want to add to the difficulty a little bit, you can do a sit start below the aforementioned starting holds and it would easily enter into v2-3 territory. 

  The holds near the end of the problem tend to get a bit more chossy, so DO NOT rely on anything small. Be smart and have a good spotting team at the ready. 

  This problem was established with the combined effort of Jonathan Williams (FA), Spencer Maske, and myself. 

  Shoutout to Motown USA.

Climb through a crimpy start (crux) to an exposed traverse at the anchors.

 To avoid ridiculous rope drag, extend your quickdraws on bolt 3 (or better yet, use a 120cm sling). The easiest way to clean this route is to backlead.

 Temporary PG-13 Rating, Read comments for more information.

Yell County full body pump.  Every move makes you think on this Classic!

Starts on Magnum P.I. 5.12c, but finishes on Money Shot 5.11a. A little contrived overall, but it features some really cool climbing at parts; Start Magnum but move left at the second bolt onto an independent bolt line. Climb into the large hueco sit-down rest on Money, but don't head out left. Instead, stem out of the hueco and move back right onto the face before joining  back onto Money Shot's line.

Another great route at Dardanelle- the book says it's beta-intensive, but I didn't think the sequence was really all that hard to figure out. It certainly is pumpy, though. Bomber rock, fun movement.

Start left of the tree on the arete and climb onto the right face. First bolt is only there to protect you from decking before you can stand up on the ledge.

 The crux is either the start or directly before/after the 2nd bolt.

Climb antichrist Then keep going to the top chains very bouldery. Was the first route redpointed on the Wall.

Classic Dardanelle pump-fest. Wander up the face and finish with a scary mantel and a hard anchor clip.

Cool climbing to a cruxy section in Middle.  

really fun route with great movement.  Climb the flake up to a good rest before an underclinging crux protects the anchors

D Rock is fairly different from most crags in the Natural State. It's located in Russellville, south of I-40. There aren't a whole lot of lines here, but most of the ones present are great. The crag is known for it's plethora of hard sport routes- almost everything is 5.11 or harder (with a ton of good 5.12s.) It's also unique in the way that almost every sport line has fixed draws. That and the graffiti and the <5 minute approach for almost all of the lines mean that this almost feels more like a gym than a true Arkansas crag. That being said, if you want hard sport, don't miss this area. 

  The rock is still sandstone, but it's a different feel than most of the stuff up in Newton County- it's harder and more angular. Also, it feels like the holds are always facing the wrong way, which makes climbing here much more interesting.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Dardanelle Rock