This route provides a good warm-up for the routes in Hell Cave. The last section is the shared crack that many routes climb through. This reverses the upper section of the route Oz. The Helix of the North side of the canyon.

Begin on Reaching for Razors, after clipping the third bolt of Razors, head up and right. Clip a bolt for Oz and continue heading right. At this point, the route crosses Jitterbug Boy. Clip the bolt on Jitterbug Boy before it pulls the roof (a two-foot sling would be nice, there was a very long fixed draw here at one point). A few moves down and to the right will bring you to the crack in the cave. Clip another Oz bolt, just left of the dinner plate hold on Burning and Melting, and then do the last two bolts of Burning, Melting, and Wasatch Reality. The route ends in the double kneebar at the terminus of the roof crack.

Very fun climbing, a little bit of everything. Steeper than it looks.

Reaching for Reality

Reanimator

Church of Skatin

Jitterbug Boy

Hell

Guillotine

Romeo's Bleeding

High Blight

Higher Shelf

Reaching for Razors

Top Shelf

Brimstone

Higher Water

Unknown

High Water

The Blight

Juliet (Be Skatin)

Silver Lining

High Water Traverse

This is a technical route that has a crux at the roof.

This route starts to the left of Romeo's Bleeding

It's not beautiful, but don't let that keep you from tying this puzzling feature climb.  What it lacks in aesthetics, it makes up for in fun.

Follow polished jugs that end just below the roof at the second draw.  Make an easy move over the roof to a generous rail, shuffle right, and reach for the next rail, which has a few sweet spots if you look around.

This is where the business starts.  Fight your feet over the roof and use the mini-arete feature to get over the rail and up to a resting jug on the left.

Work the corner with your feet, angle right past a few decent holds and gain an almost no-hands rest by standing on on a large shelf.

While the feet are huge, the hands get small.  Traverse right using small crimps, and slopey edges until you can reach the horizontal break below the next roof.  A few shouldery moves in a small dihedral get you to the anchors.

Cleaning the route is much easier than it appears.

This is a good option if you are looking for something that will challenge more than your finger strength.

This is a powerful classic line that has a hard 3rd clip.

This is a classic route that has a very hard and very distinct crux.

This is a route that stems up the seam to the left of Guillotine and continues right to finish at the top of the Hell Wall

Adds some fun to The Blight. Do the High-water Traverse past the crux to a flat jug, then head up clipping a bolt left of The Blight, which changes the lower movement quite a bit. Finish up The Blight.

Add the High Water Traverse into the start of Top Shelf. Idk if this has been done before, especially since Top Shelf wasn't really a route back in the day when all the boulder traversing was popular, so what the hell, FA?

Starts with big moves on crimps and sidepulls, leading to a decent rest at a shelf, where the character of the route becomes more technical with a gaston and mantle finish.

A forgotten relic from the golden age of AF climbing. The only clue of it's existence is the singular link-up bolt with a spinning SMC hanger located between The Blight and Reanimator. This route was used as training back in the day, in conjunction with the High Water Traverse.

Climb the High Water Traverse until you join up with the Blight. This was originally done much lower on the wall before the ground filled in due to erosion, but it still goes with a couple beta options. Once established in the middle of the Blight, make a move out right to a slot pocket, clipping the link-up bolt before some reachy moves to join and finish on Reanimator. Somewhat condition dependent, as Reanimator is quite polished by now.

Add the High Water Traverse into the start of High Water. Pretty good power endurance climbing, as you only get a marginal shake right before the low-percentage crux.

Fun climbing! An easier route to give relief for all the hardman routes in the Hell area. Nice, big holds abound. The crux seems to be after the last bolt getting to the anchors - clipping that last bolt is an awkward move unless you find the right holds. Throwing a right foot heel-hook around the arete can be helpful at the crux area.

This route begins by traversing to the left and then gets into powerful movement and joins Hell at the fifth bolt and finishes on Hell

This is a shorter route that starts to the right of High Water. It is soft for the grade and could be 5.11d

If you've done Reaching for the hundredth time or don't feel like doing the grovely start to Romeo as your warmup for the much harder routes around it, you may enjoy this linkup that starts on the lower boulder problem of Church of Skatin' and climbs up until you are on the last good jug above the shelf.  Sam's new route, Silver Lining, gives you a better draw to clip to keep the traverse above the alcove to Romeo's Bleeding manageable.  Finish on the upper part of Romeo.

If anyone knows if someone did this back in the day, please comment below and I'll update the FA.

Shares the start with Church of Skatin, but goes straight up at the crux rather than forking left. Features a small pocket, a hard undercling, and a few tiny edges.

Start beneath the ledge under Hell on jugs and a shelf at your feet.  Traverse right along the base of Hell Wall.  The crux is below the start of High Water.  The difficulties end at Reaching for Razors but you can keep going all the way to Burning inside Hell Cave.

I heard that the original traverse used a low mono but that the ground has since filled in.  The current traverse is still no easier than V7/8 in my opinion.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Hell Wall