A loose chimney climbs to the top of the north tooth.

Choss Chimney

Treasure Chimney

Not a Chimney

The Wild Child

Tourist Attraction

Straight from the Horse's Mouth

This is a fun, little jaunt up an intimidating chimney with a lot of chockstones above your head.

P1, 2, and 3 can be broken up as you feel comfortable. I think you can do this climb as 2 huge pitches.

This is the obvious chimney on the north tooth, tucked behind a tree.

Climb the chimney using cracks on the wall and slinging chocks for protection. Continue to the summit.

Descent: walk off to the north and wrap around the base of the west face.

This hands and fist crack goes up the face/arete in between

Choss Chimney

and

Treasure Chimney

. I'm sure this has been done before, but I thought I'd add it, so folks have an option to stay out of the chimneys which are both pretty loose. Other than the lichen, the face and crack both stay pretty clean. This makes for a safer solo than the chimneys.

The Wild Child is the route to do this face. Many variations exist, and it's one of the most obvious and intimidating lines from the ground. Find the large roof. This is the route.

P1 (32m, 5.11-): the first pitch of this route climbs an overhanging, wide crack. Three #3 Camalots would be nice for the climb, but I usually do it with two and slide one. A #4 Camalot also comes in handy as well.

Make sure you have an attentive belayer/spotter for the first few feet of the climb as the gear is marginal.

Climb this to the base of the roof, and build an anchor.

P2 (20m, 5.10-): this pitch is intimidating, but it eats gear, and the feet are more positive than the looks of it. Climb through the roof, and move around the corner and up to a two bolt belay. Thin gear.

P3 (45m, 5.10 R/X): climb into the Gully 5.9R, and build a belay or skip the belay (using triple length runners), and climb the 5.10R/X Chimney that happens to be the Horsetooth Gap.

Alternate P3 (40m, 5.11-): climb the last pitch of Craig Luebben's sport route -

Straight into the Horse's Mouth

.

Descent: to descend the middle tooth, you can either rap off the top (SHIT LOADS OF DRAG) or downclimb/rap partially into the 4th class chimney to the east.

This route is spectacular and you need to climb all 300 feet of it.

Pitch 1 (35m, 5.8): climb up an easy slab with a lot of face holds up to a left-facing dihedral with 2 cracks (finger and flaring 0.75) running up the wall. Set gear as high as you can, and then bust out on to the ledge above (the gear on the upper dihedral can be tricky to see for newer leaders). Continue up a fist crack to chains. A single 70m just reaches to ground from these anchors. A 60 meter can be used, but one will have to downclimb the slab (5.5ish).

Pitch 2 (20m, 5.9): this pitch makes the hike to this route worth it.

Move up and left to the dihedral, past a tan bolt and up into a bulging finger crack, and continue up to chains.

Pitch 3 (35m, 5.4R): this is a great face climbing pitch with wandering gear and two tan bolts to supplement the longer run outs. This pitch requires one to build an anchor at the top.

Climb this to the top of the rock and prepared to get gawked at by all the tourists.

Descent: walk off the tooth to the north and back to the base of the climb.

This is a fully bolted route.

Pitch 1- 5.10b/c? Leads the way to the bolted anchor. 13 draws.

Pitch 2- Crux pitch 5.11b. 13 draws and a nut to attach to bolt that is missing its hanger. Bolted anchor.

Descent- 1.The route can be rapped with double ropes. No rap rings on the anchors though, so we left 2 biners. 2. Rap off the front side via the anchor on the top

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Horsetooth Rock - West Face