Another fun moderate multipitch route on Prophecy Wall, Past Lives offers good climbing on the varnished holds typical of other routes at Prophecy. The route faces north and goes up a pillar that is separated from the main wall.  The route trends slightly left for the entire length.

Pitch 1 - (5.9, 80 feet, 9 bolts) Start of the base of the pillar and climb up and trend slightly left. Belay ledge midway up the pillar on two rappel bolts.

Pitch 2 - (5.9, 80 feet, 9 bolts) Continue up pillar past tricky crux with small holds to the top of the pillar. Belay bolts are just below the lip of the pillar.

Pitch 3 - (5.7, 25 feet - 3 bolts) Step off top of the pillar to main wall and climb to the top of main wall.

Descent - 3 rappels down route with a 60 meter rope. The first rappel is fairly straight forward to the top of the pillar. The second rappel drops you straight down the wide chasm between the pillar and the main wall, however. For the last 30 feet you're hanging free of the rock. You'll end up left of the belay ledge and need to push off the main wall with the left leg and make a small leap to the right to get to the last rappel station. Third rappel is basic.

Past Lives

Mystic Dictator

Elizabeth Blue Moss

Technical Knee-Highs

The Book of Prophesy Var.

Social Distancing

Breaking the Sabbath

Caging the Zealot

Interview with a Psychopath

Conditional Bliss

Gordian Knot

True Believers

Thieves Karma

Equanimity

Misfit Prophets

Quarantine

Unknown

The Secrets of Fatima

Remains to be Seen

Omens

Grumpy Old Men

Whatever Happens...Happens (aka. Watermelon Wishes and 40oz dreams)

Lunatic Cry

Sticky Revelations

Long Time Coming

Schizuphoric

Non-Technical Church Socks

False Prophets

Idle Chatter

The Soffit of Jericho

Prescience

Dark Prophete

Put up or shut up

Omicron Variant BA.2

The Roofs of Jericho

Choo Choo Express

Harsh Reality

Softscrub

The Visionaries

Hunger + Thirst After

Unforeseen Resistance

Wooden Hammer

Beware of the Gong

Harbingers

Ship of Fools

Wafer Wash

Persecuted for Righteousness

Wuhan Bat Cave

Easier for a Camel

A rather nice, long route with a minor crux lower in the route and the crux up high pulling over the bulge.  The great holds seem to fade to good (enough) holds, when you find them. The route has good clipping stances and is protected well so definitely give it a go if you are up on the platform.

Another fun long route in character with the rest of the crag. A little run out to the first bolt. Crux is a 3 bolt steep section in the middle of the route. Chains are at the edge of the ledge.

Located just to the left of

Remains to Be Seen

, this route is rarely climbed. The crux of the route seems to be going above the last bolt as the holds run out and the route gets slabby.

A more beefed up version of its

neighbor

, Technical Knee-highs

climbs a long line of bolts through a roof and finishes heavy on a dicey bulge. This route can be done as a short easy single pitch or one long, more difficult double line.

Option 1: Climb about 60 feet on varnished edges to an anchor below a large roof (5.8).

Option 2: Climb Option 1, but continue past the first anchor clipping one of the chains long. Continue from here and fire through the first crux roof. More technical climbing continues over jugs, edges, and a lie-back crack 3/4's of the way up. Gain a rest and prepare for the final and hard to read bulge. Finish at an anchor 95 feet up. (5.11a)

On the ledge about about half way up

Sticky Revelations

is a right facing corner.

The Book of Prophesy Variation

is a good traditional pitch using all techniques of climbing. It ascends a crack that ends on a short steep face.

Climb any of the many south-side routes to gain the large ledge 70' up. From the ledge look north/left to locate the crack.

A little hard to get into, this route eventually eases up lie-backing through a solid and varnished corner using finger-locks, then jams. Follow the crack up and slightly right reaching the crux 30 feet up at a bulge. Continue past this bulge following a petering crack climbing the face on large edges to the belay.

Two Pitch sport route.  The first pitch is 33 meters to the chain anchor.  It begins with delicate patina climbing that leads to steep overhanging terrain with big holds.  The second pitch is shorter but also has an overhanging crux section that climbs surprisingly easy thanks to jug-like holds. A 70m rope gets you down in two raps.

Another route with big sculpted holds, Breaking the Sabbath offers another easy option on the right side of Prophecy Wall. Shares the start with the left variation of Sticky Revelations and trends left to the start of the Book of Revelations variation.

Caging the Zealot shares the start with Harbinger and Conditional Bliss and is the right most of those three routes. Routes diverge at a small ledge after the 4th bolt. Another moderate route that is destined to become a St. George classic, Caging the Zealot offers miles of good climbing with two small cruxes, both on the first pitch. First crux is about 15 feet off the small ledge where the routes diverge. Second crux is toward the top of the pitch and offers some great exposure.

Pitch 1 - (5.10b, 140 feet, 15 bolts) Climb up the low angle ramp past 4 bolts to a small ledge. Continue up varnished holds climbing past the mid route rappel anchors to a great belay ledge (if you're belaying at the first set of anchors it's going to be a hanging belay).

Pitch 2 - (5.8, 40 feet 4 bolts) Continue up easier climbing to the top of the wall.

Descent - Rappel the route with 2 rappels. First rappel goes all the way down to hanging mid route rappel anchors.

Variety of interesting climbing, with one significantly harder crux sequence.

Top-Rope is possible from the Pitch 2 top anchor for the route Beware of the Gong, with a directional through the two-bolt top anchor for this route.

Start on face above slope of dirt + loose rocks up around right from the right end of Prophesy Wall, below old rusty piton 10 feet to the right of large right-facing inside corner below overhanging ridge.

Up face past first piton onto wide platform, then up crack along right side of obvious left-trending gully, and where gully heads up straight, continue up in its right side. Finish with obvious crack in wall to right of gully, up to two-bolts-with-rings anchor just left of large tree.

warning

: Significant danger of breaking or loose rock, since this line has not been climbed much yet. Belayer and all other persons should stay far off to the side from anyone climbing above. Best to avoid this route when other parties are nearby who might also be endangered by a falling rock.

Another longer single pitch route that climbs varnished edges up the middle of Prophecy Wall. This climb shares the first four bolts with Harbingers and Caging the Zealot, climbing the wall between these two routes. Route trends left on the main wall after the fourth bolt.

Formerly a trad line that was rated 5.9R, Gordian Knot has been retro-bolted in the past few years after a fall produced a heinous injury. A pitch has also been added to the top of the wall.

P1 - Start to the left of the house sized rock at the base of Sticky Revelations and climb past 3 bolts to a ledge with a 3 bolt anchor. 5.7, 3 bolts.

P2 - Climb through thin holds to the roof using the right side of the arete to pull over, continue through a awkward moves to two rap anchors. 5.10a, 7 bolts.

P3 - Continue up over another small roof to the top a large ledge. 5.10b, 3 bolts.

P4 - The last pitch involves long reaches with little to no feet for a the first two bolts before the holds get better. Climb past 3 bolts to the top of the wall. 5.10d, 3 bolts.

Recommend running pitch 2 and 3 together. If pitch 4 was as fun as the rest of the route this would get 4 stars.

Yet another line of interesting moves on this face.

Top-Rope from bolt anchor at top of pitch 1 of the route "

False Prophets

".

Start on center right of face, at the obvious crack which rises up from the right edge of the solid-rock platform. Up the crack, then roughly straight up to reach ledge below wide overhang.

. . . (The route "

False Prophets

" goes up over the left side of this overhang at a bolt, and the route "

Beware of the Gong

" goes up over its right side at a bolt).

This route goes straight up over the center of the overhang (with No bolt).

Finish up right side of face past a bolt to the obvious wide ledge with directional bolt, then step left to bolts+chains+rings anchor (for the top of pitch 1 of the route "False Prophets).

warning

: Significant danger of breaking or loose rock, since this line has not been climbed much yet. Belayer and all other persons should stay far off to the side from anyone climbing above. Best to avoid this route when other parties are nearby who might also be endangered by a falling rock.

name: The current name is a placeholder until someone Leads this route (likely after installing some bolts), who can then give us the permanent name for this route.

The route starts up the mossy arete to the right of the rather blank tan face that is to the right of the start of Roofs of Jericho (10 bolts, 5.9). The first pitch ends at an anchor on a large ledge beneath the vertical red face.  The second pitch ascends the steep face past 7 bolts to a three bolt anchor.  Descent can be done in two rappels with a single rope, although there will be a bit of down climbing on the second rappel.

Located just to the left of

Roofs of Jericho

, Equanimity is a single pitch 60 foot route. The crux is moving off the slopers and climbing through the roof at the end of the route.

This is a three pitch route up the center of the middle section of the cliff.  The first pitch is the crux, but the best climbing is on P2 and P3. The first pitch climbs poor sandy white rock through bulges with undercling moves.  P2/3 head up fun moderate varnish climbing to the top of the cliff.

With a 70M rope, long slings, and skipping clips you can combine all three pitches into a monster 230ft lead.  Rap three times with a 60M rope...

P1 -  has 5 bolts to a chain anchor and is 5.8

P2 - Has 9 bolts and is steep with big holds and comes in at 5.10b/c.  A 70m rope with get you down from the top of the second pitch.

P3 - 8 bolts to chain anchor.  Steep at the beginning.  Will get better over time as it cleans up probably 5.10a/b

This is a pretty fun route found just to the right of the first pitch of Remains to be Seen.  The route starts up an easy slab to the low first bolt, then gets slightly harder to a close second bolt where the crux is encountered.  After the second bolt it stays interesting with a somewhat thin slab before getting to the third bolt, then it's jugs the rest of the way up to the anchors at about 90 feet.  There is a band of sandy/loose rock at about 2/3 height, so be careful not to knock anything down onto your belayer.

The first pitch climbs through steep sandy yellow rock on sidepulls to a big ledge and a belay (10 bolts, 5.10c, 70')

The second pitch climbs positive edges to the top of the wall (16 bolts, 5.10a, 140')

P1 - Start on an overhang with big moves on big holds and climb up and trend right. Climb through 15 bolts of varnished holds to a 3 bolt anchor. 5.10a.

P2 - Continue up and right to a large ledge that tops out on the wall. 5.9, 11 bolts.

Anchors for Remains to be Seen are about 10 feet back from the face and the rope runs over the edge with potential for rope drag and getting it stuck. We actually rappelled from a set six foot of chains just to the right of this route.

Careful climbing on crisp flakes. Typical thoughtful Prophesy maneuvering to keep from snapping edges.

P1: Ascend what looks like a wide crack with Stegosauraus backplates sticking out of it. The spines are a very unique feature- the likes of which I have never seen. They looked delicate but we didn't break any off. They give you a series of jugs and good feet until they peter out near the top.Most of the climb is pretty easy with a reachy 5.9 crux near the top. Fun fun fun! (110ft)

P2: Ascend a series of softer, more fragile crimps and edges through a small roof, paw around for the solid stuff, then continue to fire the face towards more varnished and secure ground. Cool plates of hard sandstone litter the upper headwall. Persevere and be rewarded. Sketchy fun fun! (90ft)

The climb goes for two pitches. Good if run as a single or mulit-pitch.

{Perin's great sport description}

Climb large, varnished edges on mostly less-than-vertical terrain. Two short sections of vertical or slightly overhanging rock keep things interesting. The crux is between the penultimate and last bolts. After the last bolt bear right to the anchors above the roof/arch. Rappel off or continue up the second pitch of

The Roofs of Jericho

.

There is one perfect hand jam, and a couple of places for tight hands jams. Some of the holds are intricately shaped and look somewhat delicate.

Note that

Rock Climbs of Southwest Utah

lists this route as 90 feet long. However, when I reached the chains I was about two feet short of the half mark on a 70 meter rope, which would indicate about 110 feet (allowing for the knot). Note that the rappel line is well to the right of the route line and ends on higher ground than the start of the route. There appeared to be sufficient rope remaining in the 70 meter to indicate that a 60 meter rope would work also for the rappel.

{end Perin's great description}

Sadly this route was bolted over after an all gear FA was made in 1996. The name the retrobolters gave it reflects their true ethics of the crag, which is sadly overbolted.

If you have a rack and want to climb it w/out clipping bolts

(it's the exact same line)

bring many small and medium sized cams along with the standard rack up to #4 camalot. Small nutz & slings were helpful as well.

I do remember the start being a bit spicey, with a slung chickenhead or 2 then we(Pete VanSlooten and I)climbed to and belayed from the same ledge as Roofs of Jericho, but used gear for the belay (bolts now grace this ledge). We then climbed up and left following a chimney finishing on low angle patinas/crack system. Walkoff around the back heading north then wrap around to the base of the wall (south).

The first pitch is a sandy crack to the right of Misfit Prophets and left of The Secrets of Fatima.  This pitch is mostly easy and goes at about 5.8 or so with adequate pro.  The anchor is for some reason a fair distance off to the right at a stance on a slab.  There is one bolt, a chopped bolt and you can get in a couple of 1" to 1.5" cams in a good slot.  Be careful crossing over to this anchor from the crack as there is lots of loose rock floating around on the slab.

For pitch two, you need to go back left a good ways into the big right facing corner.  If you go straight up from the anchor there will be a fixed pin and some super junky rock leading up a broken crack feature.  This is not the way to go.  Get into the big corner and look for a bolt under a small rooflet.  Follow the big corner to the top of the pillar to a 3 bolt anchor.  5.9 tops for this pitch with good pro.

Pitch three starts left of the belay at a line bolts.  Follow the bolted crack to the top.  5.7.

This route is rated 5.10 in the Goss Guide, but seemed quite a bit easier, even with the sand, loose rock, and off route potential. It might be 5.8+ for 5.10 leaders.

This route is located on the far right side of Prophesy Wall.

The first pitch is on good varnished edges (5.7, about 75ft). About 3/4 of the way up it reaches a ledge under a small roof, and passes around the left side of the roof. It finishes up to an obvious ledge with a bolts+chains+rings anchor (which is just left of the bolts+chains+rings anchor for the route "False Prophets").

The second pitch is also on good varnished edges (5.8, about 75ft). About 2/3 of the way up the original route goes sharp diagonal left following bolts-with-hangers to reach the two-bolts-with-chains anchor (for the trad route "Book of Prophesy") above the big right-facing inside corner.

Variation 2.1 -- There is a variation that is to the left, which is a hand crack (trad gear) and quite fun.

Variation 2.2 -- Where the original route turns diagonal left, instead continue straight up past two glue-in bolts to two-bolts-with-chains anchor just below big detached rock face - (convenient if stopping after Pitch 2)

Variation 2.3 -- At the first bolt  after turning sharp left for the final traverse, instead of continuing left, head straight up to a high two-bolt anchor (for Persecuted for Righteousness) just left of big detached rock face - (convenient for next doing the main 5.10 version of Pitch 3).

The final short pitch goes through a small bulge on edges to a 2 bolt anchor (5.10a).

There is also a 3rd pitch variation at 5.3 to make this a 5.8 climb. It angles to the left to another set of anchors.

Descent: Three rappels with a single rope.

Location

At the bottom of the right side of the Wall, find a wide gentle solid-rock platform which is just right of 25-ft-tall detached pillar.

Start on that rock platform about ten feet right from the right side of the pillar, below a bolt.

Start is shared with the route "Breaking the Sabbath". Above the first bolt (where "Breaking" goes left), this route continues roughly straight up.

- - > See line

R

in

this Photo

or

this Photo

.

Variety of thoughtful interesting moves on 3-dimensional rock structures, especially aretes.

Start on face above slope of dirt + loose rocks up around right from the right end of Prophesy Wall, below old rusty piton 10 feet to the right of large right-facing inside corner below overhanging ridge.

Up face past first piton onto wide platform, then up crack along right side of obvious left-trending gully, and where gully heads up straight, continue up it. Soon see a way to exit Left onto face or arete. Continue up a sequence of arete segments and sideways moves or short faces to reach the next arete segment. Stay well right of the route "Beware of the Gong" and left of the obvious gully which has the route "Interview With a Psychopath" on its right wall.

Continue up past the level of the two-bolt top anchor for "Interview" and reach a vegetated slope. See rock corner to left with a bolt on the face left of that corner and a two-bolt anchor above the platform on top of that corner. Finish up the wide crack on right side of  corner to reach the two-bolt anchor for the route "Beware of the Gong".

warning

: Significant danger of breaking or loose rock, since this line has not been climbed much yet. Belayer and all other persons should stay far off to the side from anyone climbing above. Best to avoid this route when other parties are nearby who might also be endangered by a falling rock.

A nice, short crack that offers a little bit of everything.

Non-Technical Church Socks

ascends the right curving arc on the left side of the buttress.

Climb the crack using jams, locks, edges, and lie-backs. A technical crux comes and goes quick near the beginning of the route and is followed by a nice cruise to the chains. A pretty straight foward route that gobbles great gear. Finish just below the roof at a set of chains.

Standard patina start.  Crux comes at a blank section ~2nd bolt.  Pull through this with a few small crimps or friction, and cruise up good patina edges to the chains on the ledge.  The chains are just right of the obvious 2nd pitch crack of Sticky Revelations.

If you came to this end of the Wall looking for serious pronouncements or warnings, this is not the route for you.

Fun moves the whole way. Sustained in its difficulty grade.

Top-Rope with directionals (including rock horn?) from the bolt anchor at the top of pitch 1 of the route "False Prophets" / "Beware of the Gong".

Start at top of slope of dirt + loose rocks up around right from the gentle solid-rock platform near right end of Prophesy Wall -- at large right-facing inside corner with overhanging ridge above left, and an old rusty piton 10 feet to its right -- below obvious left-trending gully.

First up the corner (crux?) onto wide smooth platform at bottom of gully.

. . . Variation 0 (much harder): Instead start up face under old rusty piton (with a quickdraw on piton as directional) - (same as the route "Interview with a Psychopath").

Next up the left side of the obvious left-trending gully, roughly straight up, climbing over a foot-wide crack.

. . . Variation 1 (a bit harder like say 5.7 with different style of moves): Instead go up the right side of the left-trending gully, along obvious crack in shallow right-facing inside corner - (which might be the same as the route "Interview Psychopath"). Where the gully turns straight up, step left across to join main route.

Just after passing to left of ten-ft-tall overhang, where the main gully trends right to go much higher,  exit left thru notch onto wide flat platform. Next up gully rising from right end of platform to finish at right end of obvious wide ledge with a single bolt above near its end, and two bolts+chains+rings anchors to its left. The right of those two anchors is the top of the routes "False Prophets" + "True Believers".

warning

: Significant danger of breaking or loose rock, since this line has not been climbed much yet. Belayer and all other persons should stay far off to the side from anyone climbing above. Best to avoid this route when other parties are nearby who might also be endangered by a falling rock.

name: The current name is a placeholder until someone Leads this route (likely after installing some bolts), who can then give us the permanent name for this route.

OK, I made up the route name. This is a variation of the first pitch of

The Roofs of Jericho

. Follow the first seven bolts and then continue straight up to a two-bolt anchor under the roof. Alternatively, go right a bit and clip two more bolts, traverse left a bit and then reach the anchors (

The Roofs of Jericho

follows the aforementioned two bolts and continues up and over the roof to a different anchor.)

Large varnished edges, a few slopers if you want them, and a few pinches as well. If you go straight up after the seventh bolt the varnished edges end and you continue up on rounded slopers and rounded edges. The bit from the seventh bolt to the anchors is a bit more run out than the rest, but is on somewhat easier ground.

Another fun two pitch route with some slabs, a roof, a mantle and some jugs.

P1 - Moderate slab climbing past 5 bolts to a large ledge. 5.9, 5 bolts.

P2 - Climb up and left on small holds that get better the higher you go. Pull through the roof on nice jugs. The holds on the last three bolts get smaller again as the climbing becomes more slabby. Trending left makes it a little easier. Finish on the large treed ledge where the first pitch of Conditional Bliss ends. 5.10a, 12 bolts.

Climb the bolt line going directly up the black streak. Clip a couple bolts before the first roof/bulge pull on easy ground. From here to the chains is a link up of mostly sustained, in-your-face, 11+/12a sequences with some great rests in between. Expect thin, technical climbing in a shallow dihedral. I personally thought getting over the last bulge was the crux. Very safe falls, straight line, great for the emerging .12 leader! So good, GET ON THIS!

1st pitch: Follow crack system through bulge past one bolt to anchor on small ledge. 90' 5.10a

2nd pitch: Face climbing to overhang on good edges then outside of chimney to anchor on top of formation.

New sport line on patina edges.  Crux is the first 15 feet.  Needs some traffic to clean off the lichen and smooth out the brittle small edges.

For exact approach look in

Rock Climbs of Southwest Utah

by T. Goss.  Start is behind a bush, just right of a dihedral.  5.9 climbing up varnished edges to crux over the first roof.

Excellent belay station for second pitch, however significant rope drag over the first roof for the second ascender. Second pitch is a little more crimpy with a tougher second roof crux. Two rappels down with single rope or walk off if you want a long hike down.

Choo Choo Express is a nice 3 pitch trad climb up the right side of Prophecy wall. The route follows a crack system in a corner past a couple ledges with a small roof halfway up and another roof at the top.

P1. Start off the ramp below a chimney system in a corner. A line of bolts ascends a column just right of the chimney to a big ledge with anchors. 6 bolts to a three bolt anchor. 50 feet 5.7. Alternatively you can climb the chimney and crack system to this ledge. Gear to 3" for the chimney 5.6.

P2. The money pitch. Move left into the corner and climb the crack with good jams and laybacks up to a good stance below a small roof. Follow the crack around the left side of the roof and pull unto the face above (crux) using the thin crack and good patina edges. Move up into an alcove and finish up easier ground to a big ledge with a cactus, this ledge is shared with The Visionaries to the left. Gear to 3", set of nuts and tcu's. 90' 5.10a.

P3. Start up the thin seam straight above the belay or up the right side of the column just to the left. Follow the thin crack system past some insecure moves aiming for the first of two bolts below the roof. Clip the two bolts moving slightly right, climb straight over the bulge after clipping the second bolt on great patina plates and top out. Gear to 2" set of nuts. 50' 5.10a.

Descent: The top anchor on Choo Choo is not set up well for a rappel. The best option is to move about 10 feet left to the anchors of The Visionaries and rap that route. Three raps with a 60m using the bolted anchors. You can rap from the pitch two ledge (cactus) to the ground with a 70m with an easy 5-10 foot down scramble. Tie knots

Harsh Reality starts on a lower angle ramp that steepens as it gets closer to the crux on the first pitch. Varnished holds, great exposure, and a long first pitch mark this typical Prophecy Wall route.

Pitch 1 - (5.9, 130 feet, 12 bolts) - Climb up and right on varnished holds that leads to the large crack system that start midway up the first pitch. Climb past mid route rappel anchors. Crux is the small roof at the 9th bolt. Continue climbing up lower angled climbing past 3 more bolts to a spacious ledge for the belay.

Pitch 2 - (5.9, 50 feet, 5 bolts) - Continue up the wall and to the right. Climb ends before the top of the wall.

Descent - Rap the route with two rappels. Mid route rappel anchors

This route is the 2nd route from the right side of the cliff.  It is about 75ft to the left of Sticky Revelations.  This is another great outing on good varnish edges.  The first pitch is 145ft long with 12 bolts (5.9+).  A mid way station is in place for a short pitch and for rapping.  The 2nd pitch follows a short crack to more varnished edges. (5.10c)

Rap the rope with one rope.

Thoughtful sequence, but after that much easier.

On the obvious ledge, start about half-way between the bolt anchor for "Breaking the Sabbath" and the bolt anchor for "Sticky Revelations", below a blank-looking face.

Somehow get up the center of that face.

. . . Variation (not as hard, say around 5.10c): Instead start left of center, up to get hand onto left side of 2.5-ft-diameter tan/yellow spot. Next diagonal up right into center of face.

Finish roughly straight up (much lower difficulty) to just left of 3rd bolt down from top of pitch 2 of route "Sticky Revelations". . . . (Optional to continue (lower difficulty) higher to finish at the big rock leaning against the lower right of the triangular face at the top of the cliff).

warning

: Significant danger of breaking or loose rock, since this line has not been climbed much yet. Belayer and all other persons should stay far off to the side from anyone climbing above. Best to avoid this route when other parties are nearby who might also be endangered by a falling rock.

name: The current name is a placeholder until someone Leads this route (likely after installing some bolts), who can then give us the permanent name for this route.

Climb varnished terrain for several bolts before it gets steep, then over a couple bulges including a hard sequence with slippery slopers that will shed sand into your eyes if you're careless. A bit easier up a seam-feature towards the chains.

This route has a bit of an alpine feel on friable/chossy rock. I liked the route for the sense of adventure, the good rock and pro is there when you really need it. Don't forget your helmet!

Pitch 1 - Climb past 2 bolts on low angle but friable/chossy rock, then stem your way up chimney to pillar until the rock gets solid, then climb pillar to base of chimney(100 ft.)

Pitch 2 - Stem up to face with varnished rock, sling horn or place small nut before comitting to chossy rock and climbing pillar with no pro. Stem through chimney before reaching good varnished rock and pro. Pull through varnished rock to get on top of pillar. (80 feet)

Pitch 3 - Climb up through wide, steep crack to summit (30 Feet)

Climb face near ridge/arete which forms the right edge of this Wall. The climbing is not difficult but has widely spaced bolts and not well traveled enough to have clean rock.

Pitch 1: Straight up face finding some thin edges to reach first bolt 20-25 ft up. Continue up and trend a bit left to stay away from the edge.

. . . Variation "Beware of the Edge" (harder) : (Top-Rope only): Instead of continuing up to second bolt, from the first bolt move up right to get as close to the edge as possible, with some delicate moves. A bit higher up climb on the crest of the arete up to a ledge below overhanging block. Step right on ledge then up over its overhanging right (East) face (tricky short 5.11b) onto a wide platform to rejoin main route.

Up past second bolt to reach ledge under right side of overhang (just left of right edge of face). Straight up over this at bolt onto wide flat platform. Finish on arete rising up from right side of platform to reach obvious ledge with directional bolt and two anchors to left.

. . . (or if feel the need to clip a bolt for protection, finish up face to left of arete).

Traverse left on ledge to finish at bolts+chains+rings anchor for top of pitch 1 of the route "False Prophets".

Pitch 2: Roughly straight up to two-bolt anchor on wide ledge to right of big triangular block at lower right side of summit face.

? Pitch 3 ? -- There is a two-bolt anchor at the top of the cliff, but no bolts readily visible above the top of P2. Also there has been a report of a big loose rock perched high (? Is that the "Gong" ?), which if it fell could kill some people below.

Haribangers

shares the same start with

Caging the Zealot

. Depart left and onto the shoulder of the pillar after

Zealot's

fifth bolt. Gain a nice ledge with a rap anchor and belay from here.

Haribangers

casts off just left of the belay, it starts off insecure on shallow edges and demands adequate strength. Climb the arete past two bolts until you reach a more useful hold, Clip the third bolt and rock onto the face. Side pulls, edges, and a round pinch or two follow the sharp ridge up and right to a balancing stance. Clip and climb past three more bolts and save your power for the final moves to the anchor.

Hang on

and make that clip!

Start and stay on the right side of the arete for the full .11 rating.

*As of Sep 27 2020, two of three midway anchor bolts are loose. If possible bring a wrench to tighten them up.

Follow a right leaning crack system through a bulge to fun varnish climbing. A mid way anchor is found a 90ft, which is useful for a one rope descent. Continue upwards to an anchor at 150ft on moderate varnish climbing. This is a fun long route with no real crux.

Interesting varied face climbing.

Higher quality if also do start Variations from the same Top-Rope setup - (perhaps with a directional quick-draw also the start Variations and direct finish Variation of the route to the right of this one).

Pitch 2 is bolted. Pitch 1 is not (as of 2018).

Top-rope pitch 1 from bolt anchor at top of pitch 1 of the route "

Breaking the Sabbath

".

Pitch 1 (90 ft): Start up the left (NW) side of the outer (west) face of the 25-ft-tall detached pillar.

. . . Variation "Through the Eye": Up the wide non-steep crack / gap that separates the Left (N) edge of the "Mount" pillar from the main wall (4th class or 3rd).

. . . Variation "Let Not Your Left Hand Know": Up the arete which forms right edge of Left (N-running) gully and the left edge of left side (N + W) of main face of the "Sermon on the Mount" pillar. Hands touch only exactly on the arete.

. . . Variation "Poor in Spirit": Start up the left (North-NorthWest) side of the face of the "Mount" pillar, near its left edge/arete, but not using the left edge of the face for holds - (? Extra points : Use only one hand. Which?)

Stand up on left side of the top of the "Sermon on the Mount" pillar (below its peak). Step across the gap onto the main wall, and straight up that on small holds. Later into a 15-inch-wide 8-inch-deep orange channel just left of non-thick square block. Continue straight up to finish at ledge a few feet right from bottom of obvious right-facing inside corner with crack (which is the Trad route "

Book of Prophesy

").

Pitch 2 (70 ft): On the obvious ledge, start a bit left of the two-bolt anchor for the route "Breaking the Sabbath" (to the right of the three-bolt anchor below "Book of Prophesy").

Roughly straight up the face, staying about 10 ft right from the big right-facing corner of the route "Book of Prophesy".

Go just left of 2nd bolt down from top of pitch 2 of route "Sticky Revelations" and finish to two-bolt anchor-with-chains just left of big rock leaning against the lower right of the triangular face at the top of the cliff.

warning

: Significant danger of breaking or loose rock, since this line has not been climbed much yet. Belayer and all other persons should stay far off to the side from anyone climbing above. Best to avoid this route when other parties are nearby who might also be endangered by a falling rock.

name: The current name is a placeholder until someone Leads this route (likely after installing some bolts), who can then give us the permanent name for this route.

Patina edges leads to a fun flake and interesting holds.

Interesting moves at an easier grade. Wanders around to find the path of least resistance. Can make it more difficult by wanderling less.

Start in the big right-facing inside corner with wide crack at where the right edge or the right (S) face of the pillar (almost) meets the West-facing wall of the main cliff.

. . . Variation: "The Other Cheek": Instead start near left (SW) side of the right (South) face of the "Mount" pillar -- up steep jugs to stand on its top.

. . . "Dimpled Cheek" variation: up jugs in center of the right face.

. . . "Pinched Cheek" variation: up jugs on right (SE) edge of the right face of "Mount" pillar, without touching hand or foot across the wide crack to the W-facing wall of the main cliff.

Up that corner-with-crack to its top, and stand up on the highest point of the "Sermon on the Mount" pillar.

. . . (Have a monologue ready to deliver?)

Next get onto the main face of the cliff and roughly straight up staying left of a vague crack, and get up onto a smooth wide ledge (5.5 so far). Traverse horizontal right a few feet across the bolts for the route "Breaking the Sabbath". Next follow the path of least resistance: perhaps diagonal up right toward below the wide overhang, then diagonal back up left, and finish in gully just left of bolt anchor for the route "Sticky Revelations".

warning

: Significant danger of breaking or loose rock, since this line has not been climbed much yet. Belayer and all other persons should stay far off to the side from anyone climbing above. Best to avoid this route when other parties are nearby who might also be endangered by a falling rock.

name: The current name is a placeholder until someone Leads this route (likely after installing some bolts), who can then give us the permanent name for this route.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Prophesy Wall