This climb is no paradise.  A dirty and difficult start leads to easier climbing.  I jumped off the start a few times before I figured out the move to get up.  All placements are solid, just don't forget to oppose your first piece after the traverse.  The top part is only 5.7, but is the most worthwhile part of the route.  This would be a good start to the routes on the Watchtower proper, if you don't want to hike up.

Garden of Eden

Fortress

Crown of Thorns

Hungry for Heaven

Holy Grail

The Revelation

Final Prayer Variation

Invocation

Benediction

Beef Jerky

Spirit Prison

Feels like Nadine

The Confessional

Jenga

Fire and Brimstone

Fishlips

Double Cross

Inner Light

St. Theresa

Outer Darkness

Reach the Beach

Broken Serenity

Dark Rose

The Rosary

Total X

Hellfire Variation

Extreme Unction

The Dirge

An insecure and robust off-fingers/off-hands climb that follows a shallow, wavering crack. The crux of this route may be getting off the ground or better yet, remembering what you did once you have.

Desperately grovel the start for 7 feet to more sane terrain. Battle some

tomfoolery

and get past the bulge. Follow the obvious line around the corner to finish and end at a tree anchor.

A lot harder than its looks, this is a short, quick route thats over almost as fast as it begins. Hang in there !!

Fingers to hands to crimps to tight hands.  Small for the most part.

A great hard route with some desperate body tension intensive moves.  Powerful and tricky, the crux is hard to read.

Short and hard, this climb follows the arete just to the right of the Holy Grail crack.  I found it too difficult to start directly below the arete so started to the left on the face.  Very small crimpers and good footwork are necessary to get over the crux from the first bolt past the second.  This route can also be toproped after climbing Holy Grail (5.6).

Pretty good pro up this nice short crack.  There are a few spots that call for good balance and a few key handholds on the left face to keep an eye out for.

This is definitely a "sporty" route!  Two bolts for protection.  Start below the first bolt and climb directly up beneath it.  Tricky climbing passes the bolt to another bolt (don't fall clipping #2).  The climbing eases above bolt #2.  Continue on to the Invocation Anchor.  Despite the "sporty" nature of the route, if you climb solid at the grade, the two bolts are exactly adequate protection.

Final Prayer Variation starts on the North Facing wall at the west end of the Watchtower.  It comes right out of the stream bed.  It starts on the left end of this wall, clips a new bolt and then angles further left to a pin.  From here it angles back right to a nice hand ledge and up and over to some chains a bit further right.  Aside from the rambling nature, it is a very good route with some fun moves.  A reachy crux, after the pin.  The book calls this a 5.10a, maybe I am getting older and weaker or maybe it's just Ferguson, but I felt this was harder than that.

Climb up using the first two bolts on "The Dirge" for protection then move right and up to reach the second bolt on "The Revelation".  Continue up and right to reach the anchors.

Just left of Holy Grail, behind a cottonwood tree is an easy chimney.  This climbs up this chimney until a ledge is attained.  There are some memorable moments, but also plenty of ugly, dirty moments.

Clip the chains on the Hellfire Variation look up on the 'slab' face, you should see a lone bolt. Cruise on up and past the bolt on some good face holds and try to place gear whenever you can. A 2 bolt anchor will greet you just when you start to hit some sandy ledges and death blocks. It is possible to rap from here to the ground on a 60m.

Climb the big chimney just to the left of Extreme Unction.  Walk around the first big wall of the Watchtower back into the corner.  You can stay out on the face or wedge yourself way into the chimney.

This route starts just ten feet left of Total X. It features huge jugs, and some fairly hollow sounding stone.

The start features steepish jug pulling past bolt 1 into a fairly easy section of mondo jugs protected by gear. Into a final bolt just 5ft before the chains.

The start begins ten feet to the right of the Fortress and Hellfore Var. start up a left slanting dihedral to the intersection of Hellfire, cross over to a left slanting hand crack between Fortress and Hellfire(Crux).  Finish same as Fortress.  Some start up Hellfire and finish in the left slanting crack.

Begin just right of Extreme Unction and climb the steep arete and face passing two bolts.  After the second bolt continue up the arete passing some good gear placements to the top.  The typical belay is the same for Extreme Unction.

(A good variation is to climb Fishlips and after the second bolt, after getting established on the arete, finish on the roof section of Extreme Unction.)

This is the lowest of all the Watchtower routes.  It climbs a right facing, right leaning crack, and finishes with an off-width almost squeeze chimney.  This climb protects well, but messes with your balance all the way up.  Easy walk-off.

This face is great.  Lots of nice sized crimper holds, some just far enough away to make it challanging.  Do this face three or four different ways and all are interesting lines.  A tree branch near the top can get in your way on the descent.

Spicy little rig to the right of Fishlips.

Step up on easy blocks.  Get those guns loaded.

Straight up the steep corner on awkward, forearm milking holds.

This climbs the big chimney to the right of the classic Extreme Unction.  Not bad for a chimney, with the exit move being the so-called crux.  A good approach to the top.

Listed by the Ruckmans & the new granite guide as John Doe 2 and described as "2 bolts that don't seem to have a home", this mixed route has some fun moves and a powerful crux section.

Scramble/climb up the easy blocky section between the starts of

Total X

and

Fortress

to a ledge below the large alcove. Lieback your way into the alcove before clipping a bolt and committing to the powerful crux, a long balancy reach to a decent edge. A few easier moves bring you to the second bolt and another cruxy section of crystal pinching.

Edit: name & FA info finally clarified!

Just left of the Confessional and right of the corner that Garden of Eden comes out of, is Broken Serenity.  It climbs the broken west face.

An excellent line with great climbing.  Doesn't get done much, should get done more often!  One of my favorites in the canyon.  Well protected.

Say your prayers? Naaaah, you can save them.  The

Rosary

offers salvation so you won't need any

Hail Marys

.

Zig zag up big steps and blocks following a hand crack to a small ledge.  Climb above another set of blocks and hit a steep face split by a fingertip seam. Pop in some gear and fire this first crux. Finish about 10 feet above at another resting ledge. From this point two options exist, the left exit is a clean, shallow diheral, and the right is a steeper, more brittle, but slightly easier squeeze.  Take some time here to reflect upon your spiritual growth and remark on past flails, when in doubt:

Choose The Right

.

Build an anchor above using a tree and cracks. Walk off to the west.

Overall The Rosary

is a well-protected route that offers a nice variety of moves separated by two good rests. The route can be a bit of a grunt, but climbs pretty solid rock and goes into the shade rather early. The best time to climb

The Rosary

is on Easter, Lent, or Palm Sunday.

This route is a must do! Not a 100% sure on the rating, but it's steep with trad to start and has a sporty finish.  Start directly below the first bolt in the corner. The names a little deceiving (*unless you don't bring gear*). Because the beginning protects fine with a little pro.

Basically same start as Fortress only staying to the finger crack on the right.  Small stems and great finger locks and good stances to pro from.  The top is very dirty so try and stay on the rock to the left.

Fun climbing on an upside-down staircase, then an easy face.  The crux is at the big roof followed by another short easy face.  Very varied.  To find this route, follow the first main Watchtower wall around to the right into a corner and look for the upside-down staircase between two large chimmneys.

This route shares the same start as Invocation and Final Prayer Variation, then follows a straight path up the gently overhanging wall. The line is short and continuous, with a strenuous clip at the third bolt.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Watchtower Main