Fun exposure up the Sultan's most continuous swath. 

  1) 5.10 115' Yes, it is the ominous looking offwidth. Easier terrain takes you to the crux up high. Very fun! A true offwidth, yet protectable with smaller gear. Belay at nice ledge once the struggle is over. 

  2) 5.6 130' Continue up easy face. Step across to gain low angle wide crack. Cruiser pitch. Belay at huge boulders, on the right side. 

  3) 5.8 55' Stem up behind boulders, climb easy face to large ledge/flake. Trend up and right towards right to left leaning crack. Little runout but gear options do come before the angling crack is reached.

North Rib of Sultan's Tower

The Pickle

Sultana

Sultan's Tower

Jinni

The obvious crack line on the South Wall of Sultan's Tower. 

  P1 5.6  Start at toe of Sultan's South Wall and angle up left on easy terrain to a birch tree, then up flake, across flake and up a bit to good stance in chimney. 

  P2 5.8  Up chimney/with arete to a vertical squeeze section, then easier chimneying to obvious belay stance for the crux pitch. 

  P3 5.10+  Layback up flake to hand jams, then sustained fingers around Ear and steep, thinning  crack. Pro tricky thru sustained crux. Gain nice solid ledge and belay with awesome views. 

  P4 5.4 Climb easier terrain to summit

As far as we could tell this was an unclimbed spire hidden in the maze of gullies and corridors near the foot of Sultan's Tower. In order to summit, climb the shorter neighboring spire to the south. Sling the top and sack up to the eerie step across to the bigger spire. Climb a few more feet to the small summit.

The route starts on the W side of the formation. You'll have to chimney up a wide corridor for about 25 ft to find the start of the route (see "close up" pic). The first pitch consists of flaring cracks and ends in a large chimney. 60ft. The second pitch is maze-like. From the chimney, down climb a few feet and take a sharp turn right. Here you'll enter a giant hallway that you walk/scramble through for roughly 80ft. The finally pitch will now be to your right. It's a tight ramp that uses crack and chimney features to get you settled between the two summits. The summit on you're right is the false summit but it is worth checking out. You can either jump from the false summit to the true summit (if you're crazy) or, from the perch between the two summits, you can jam up a short crack and then make an awkward, backwards, stemming move to get you in place to mantle onto the true summit. This is the move and it's spicy when you think you'll have to reverse it to get down! Now enjoy the views fit for a King!

The 5.1 move comes in the first 10ft. Take a short finger crack for one or two moves and then enter a chimney. After the chimney continue to the summit and decide your fate. Touch the top if you're feeling frisky or do a hand stand if you're feeling defiant. **on a serious note, be careful, the summit block is precariously perched and who knows how long it'll be up there**

First Ascended by Herb and Jan Conn. This is the large mass of rock in the Playground Proper. Very complex massif of granite domes and towers.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Sultans Tower