Short but sweet, follow big horizontal holds along the arete that shift your balance and your weight awkwardly.

Lost World Arete

Local Hospitality

Cartography of Spirit

Beautiful Loser

Gone Sniffin'

Big Johnson

Ron Jeremy

Cherry Lane

Shorty's Lament

The Brother's Corvinus

Shattered Illusions

Dirtbag Jesus Says a Prayer

The Lightness

Hippo Head

Left-hand Spanker

Barnes Mixed Bag

Fun climb on great rock. Follow good holds in from the right to the first bolt. Find the best sequence through the crux using crimps, sloping crimps (slimps), and possibly a mono/slimp, up to a good pocket and positive crimp. There is a good right hand side-pull or left-had jug for clipping the second bolt. The rest of the climb is easier, but no gimmie, with one more harder sequence heading to the 4th bolt.

Although its a little soft in the grade, Big Johnson brings the fun.

A textbook example of bouldering on a rope. Boulder out of the low roof on slopers and crimps to the second bolt (crux). Climb up easier terrain to underneath the second roof. Clip and then finesse your way out of the roof using the finger crack leading up and right.

Formerly referred to as "The Darkeness Project" in Gray's book.

Climb the shared start to the center line out the tiered roofs. Clip the long chain on the left side of the first set of roofs and work to the rest jug before the boulder problem on Gone Sniffin'(the furthest left branch in the roofs). Then traverse right through crimps and a sidepull to a second long chain at the start of the crux.

The first ascent consisted of a deadpoint/dyno to a very bad sloping crimp under the bolt above the second long chain, which is itself equipped with a very short chain. I proposed 5.13d for this method after investing over 20 days of work, but time may demonstrate that easier options exist. Also, I'd imagine that the throw is proportionately easier with every fraction of an inch of height above 5'10", should you choose that path. In any case, it's one of the two hardest boulder problems I've ever managed. Post-crux, some 5.10+ climbing leads you to the anchors.

I think that this is a truly great climb and I'm infinitely thankful for all the support I had while working on these routes, esp. from Connie. I hope that others enjoy them even half as much.

Climb some suspect rock down low to reach a flake, then throw to a big right side pull. Pull through some deep lockoffs with good feet.

Left of Cartography. Rejoins Cartography at the top.

The arete... way harder than Big Johnson. Hah.

The first bolt is more of a directional so that the climber doesn't trip over the rope. Start by mantling onto the shelf to the left, then rock onto the arete using a mono and some small crimps.

Bring a #1 for the top. Possibly bring a bit more kit if going to the top of Through the Looking Glass (5.8).

Stem your way up to and around the namesake cherry tree and continue a cool layback under a huge roof that allows for easy escape onto the final lichen covered headwall. Ascend the headwall for 20' to a ledge and anchors.

From the ledge between "Hippo Head" and "Green Butt Hair" climb mirror cracks in a corner to a high 1st bolt. A #4 can calm any jitters you may have here. Follow bolts and the vanishing seam out onto the face and under the roof. Get some rest. Get psyched. Go.

Moderate climbing interspersed with some runouts give way to a roof pull and an awesome view of the valley.

Climb up the left facing wall past the first bolt to easier terrain and the second bolt, climb up the corner and face clip a couple bolts and head towards a nice ledge to rest on, then trend up under the roof, clip the bolt just over the lip and pull the roof.  Enjoy the view.

Climb suspect rock to the first bolt, then cruise past a ledge to a thin move on the slabby face before pulling the V-notch roof on hero jugs.

Tread lightly up the corner crack past the first bolt to the base of the splitter handcrack that widens into offwidth. Climb the crack to its top past a bolt out right. At the horizontal traverse right a few feet to the next vertical splitter. Climb that to the final overhanging section. Clip the last bolt and figure out a final boulder problem. Traversing right after the last handcrack but before the last bolt takes you to the anchors of Beautiful Loser and keeps the grade in the 5.9 range.

Climb the joint start to the right line out the tiered overhangs. Or traverse in from the right via Through the Looking Glass if others want to work on Cartography or Gone Sniffin'. This is also a perfectly legitimate, and perhaps preferrable, start, should the crag grow in popularity.

Climb up some ledges to a stance below the roof. Pull the roof moving up and left with a creative move and cruise up easy terrain to the anchors.

Powerful, thin, reachy moves between bolts 1 and 2 put the pump into your fingers and arms, fight it through the continuously powerful moves on goods holds through the last two bolts to the anchors.

Ascend the ramp left of Dirt Bag Jesus up under an overhang to a bolt at the lip, then traverse out to a hand crack, stick in 1 or 2 #2 cams and traverse back left to another overhang and a bolt. Then fire straight up a face with a few options for small cams or medium nuts to a treed ledge with anchors.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Long Branch Wall