This soaring megapitch is an endurance test of your strength and mental fortitude. Climb all of Paisano Direct, make a huge throw above the anchor, then continue on large, yet pumpy edges towards the arete that is Put Up Or Shut Up. Once past the fixed draws, its seemingly endless 5.10 to the top as you weave around the arete nearly to the end of your 70m rope.

Decent:

The whole route gas fixed draws, so descending is super easy. When you go off belay at the anchor, your belayer will untie the knot so you can pull the rope up through all the draws. RETIE YOUR KNOTS and make two clean raps with your one 70m rope.

The Trinity Arete (Aka: Paisano Plus)

Cro-Magnon

Rediscovered Country

Burnt Offering

Paisano Direct

The best route at the Aretes?  For that matter, maybe the best route in northwestern California?  Get on this thing and decide for yourself!

Long, steep, devious, and unrelenting.  A few cruxes, with a lot of difficult climbing in-between. The first comes about 1/3 of the way up pulling past a couple of small pockets into a gaston.  The second one involves moving left and around a bulge, out of a good pinch into some underclings/gastons.  Third crux is a slightly scary mantle to the anchors.  Full-value route on beautiful blue stone.

Very little description needed for this classic test piece. IF you can conserve energy through the first 8 bolts, and IF you can hold off the pump for the last two bolts (crux), that is IF you discover the sequence up to the last bolt... you may be able to join the select few who have ticked this one. The draws are fixed, and the first 3/4 of the route is absolutely too good to be missed, and probably goes at 12d-ish.

A steep route ascending some psychedelic looking drippy limestone.. steep crimps, pockets, and finishing with big moves on jugs a sharp route that is short but packs a punch.. get on it!

Five stars out of four. Climb If to the sixth bolt, then move left up and across a short slab, then zigzag around a few more bolts to the top. Truly another Paisano masterpiece.

Short, fierce, bouldery route.  Relatively easy moves to the first fixed draw.  Hit a couple of slopers and fire for an undercling.  Kneebar on the big block, then pinch and undercling your way left to the anchors.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Paisano Buttress