Start behind a large pine in a chimney formed by a large boulder. Either traverse left around the boulder and move up and left onto the face or climb over the boulder and step left. A more direct start to the crack would be to climb the grungy overhanging off-width choked with loose rock, but this seemed less appealing to us. On the face trend up and right toward a wide crack in a left facing dihedral (top of the OW). Climb this crack until it reaches the appealing diagonal crack easily seen on the approach. At this point the angle increases and the crack splits. Make a committing move right into the diagonal crack on bad feet and ringlocks (me) or thin hands (my wife), and continue to the ledge. From here, ascend the prow and belay off a tree. Sling the tree and rap skiers right.

This route is not necessarily to best in the area or worth the trip on its own. However, there is a lot of rock that has probably been climbed or is awaiting a FA in the vicinity (both routes and boulders) and the setting is spectacular. This was our starting point for a fun weekend of adventure, and could be a good one for others as well.

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Routes in Stillwater River Canyon