Adding this route for historical purposes. As written by James in the main page description this is an early route Mugs Stump established thus making it a significant ascent in my eyes. While it truly is a piss poor rock climb I really enjoyed this bomb as I have a soft spot for chossaneering. It’s a fun adventure or a great training simulator for Canadian Rockies choss. The only bolt on this route is the original which is a tiny, at the time I climbed it 45 year old , rusty little booger that you will climb 30’+ above before your next pro. The last solid cam before the bolt is another 20/30’ below. Bring a new bolt if you don’t like the sounds of this situation. The climbing isn’t difficult but you need to pay attention and tread lightly as a fall would be serious. I’m not going to do a pitch by pitch description of this route as you simply follow the same crack to the top. I suggest doing 100’ or so pitches as belays require some work to make safe and there is good bit of loose rock on this one. This route can be climbed in 4 or 5 pitches. The crux is on a face above a steep right facing corner. I went to the summit which adds 400’ or so of easy scrambling and hiked off but there are some pins that you could rap off if you wanted. They are still solid except the one I pulled out by hand. These pins are good indicators as to where to build anchors as well. Shelter the belay at all costs.

Virgo

Wierdo

The Spawn

Hell Raiser

Day for a Daydream

Hellgate Highway

Marbellous

Till Hell Freezes Over

The Pearly Gates

Monkey Paw

Devil Goat

The Drip

Walking with Giants

Super fun outing!

P1) A romp up to a ledge in a chossy right facing corner, from the ledge follow a 0.5 crack to two bolts on a face to an awkward anchor below a roof.

P2) A steep and relatively sustained bolted pitch. The topo in the guide suggests an intermediate belay station breaking up pitch two but I never found it and just climbed eight bolts to what would be, on the topo, the third set of anchors.

P3) Techi- face climbing with 8 bolts.

P4) Not recommended by the first ascentionists.

The positioning of the route in the granite guide is correct but the bolt placements and anchor locations aren't correct.

Fun morning outting that still needs cleaned up. If you choose to do it maybe bring some bail beaners and cord to update the belay stations. Wear a helmet, fight the pump on P2, and have a blast!

A bit touchy with a move or two that's slightly devious.  Slab start with a bulge up higher.  Great rock.

Starts in right-facing corner 50 feet right of

Till Hell Freezes Over

. Independent of its neighbor,

Hell Raiser

is more of an approach pitch to

Til Hell Freezes Over

. It climbs two pitches with its crux pitch coming in at .10b. Climb

Hell Raiser

as it's intended two pitches or use it as a variation to join the middle of

Til Hell Freezes Over's

second pitch.

P1

is protected by three or four bolts with mixed small placements in the corner crack on the left. P1 ends at a two bolt anchor on a nice ledge, The rest of the belay stations on this route are hanging. (5.8)

P2

follows eight bolts up a blunt arete. Fantastic climbing! (5.10b)

Stop here or continue via one bolt to join

Til Hell Freezes Over's

2nd pitch.

P3

traverses left past a bolt and then joins

Till Hell Freezes Over

. This intersection starts the 5.11a climbing. The route is a variation two and a half pitch start to

Till Hell Freezes Over

(5.11a/b). -The grade 5.10b applies only to the first part of the route.

P4

is a slab protected entirely by bolts, 125 feet (5.10b).

P5

is a choss pile protected by bolts and small pro up to .75" cams. Some route finding necessary. The final anchors are above the ledge land-marked by a pine tree. (5.9)

Helmets are a must. Jackets recommended if the temps are below 60 Deg. F. A 60m rope is insufficient for the first rappel. A walk off is optional and recommended if there other climbers in the sector.

Excellent, clean face climbing protected with gear and bolts. This is the great, marbley Hellgate rock and likely part of why Gary Olsen and Bret Ruckman named their route Marbellous.

4 pitches of well bolted Hellgate goodness.  Expect mostly good rock with some of the usual for the area.  Not soft for the grade.  A great line.  Thanks to the FA's for all the work.

past 1st bolt. I would call it 10dR THERE`S 1 BOLT NOT 2 & I COULDN'T FIND GEAR PLACEMENT SCARY WON`T DO AGAIN

Really fun climbing on the Main Hellgate.  This is an adventure route that starts with a nice hand and face pitch.  Next is is an .11a pocket crux pitch on bolts and then two more pitches of .10 and .9 bolted climbing. Its best to avoid the main hellgate in the Spring due to incessant and frequent rockfall.

3 pitches of bolted climbing. The route is a great combination of friction, edging, pockets and thin technical climbing on the second pitch. Good rock is the norm on this one.

P1 5.9+ 80' 10 bolts

There is a 2 bolt belay to provide security and to allow rappelling to the  ground. Start just left, then trend right and up to base of shallow right facing corner.

Belay at 2 bolt anchor.

P2 5.10c 90' 12 bolts

Follow bolts up corner and then onto upper face and 2 bolt belay. Climbing is technical and thin but well protected.

P3 5.8 80' 10 bolts

Follow bolts up through small roof to 2 bolt belay. Alpine draw for 3rd bolt helpful. Bolt needed to be left due to rock quality.

Follow the slab past 4 bolts, work your way over the bulge, continue following the black water streak to the chains.

From bolted anchor on pedestal climb up clipping 12 bolts, long runner useful in middle. Crux at top pulling bulge .11b more bolts above. A 60m will get you down to the belay, two ropes needed from there.

Nikki says, "A big thanks to ALL my friends, mentors, and family who have allowed me to walk the sacred path with them through life. I've been honored to walk with so many giants."

Another nice cruiser on classic Helmetgate rock. Great rock for the most part but expect some adventure here and there. Like all of Hellgate, don't blindly trust every hold.

Chain anchors on each pitch. Bring ~16 draws.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Main Hellgate