This route is near the SW corner of the relatively obscure Pin Dome, well down the hill and around right from

Big Sky Corner

. There is a mine pit about 25 ft. right of the route. Climb past 4 bolts to a cool and devious, orange arete - 2 more bolts will get you to the anchors.

Recommended. This would be very popular if it were more easily accessible. The best approach is probably from the Upper Dream Canyon parking lot. From the left side of the lot, look downhill and follow cairns leading towards Boulder Canyon, skirting a shack with a decrepit outhouse on the left. Weave your way down to the impressive Big Sky routes, then on down to Mine All Mine. Watch out for private property.

Mine All Mine

Big Sky Arete

Sweetest Taboo

Big Sky Corner

Right of the Big Sky Arete is a steep wall leading up to a clean face and right-facing corner. This is Sweetest Taboo. Climb up to a small overhang on somewhat dubious rock. Place mid-size gear and fire up over a bulge (s) to good holds and a ledge. Clip a bolt off the ledge and make cool face moves to gain the corner. Reach the corner and place excellent protection for the final moves to the anchor.

This route is located to the right of the Wall of Winter Warm on a rock with a a beautiful (soon to be Big Sky Corner, 5.12d) left-facing corner. The corner is listed in "Rossitier" Boulder Canyon guide page 117, route 24, name, Pin Job. To the right of the corner follow bolts up a steep face below a scoop. Make a hard move into the scoop and climb on good holds up the scoop to a large ledge. Place a yellow alien below the seventh bolt, then climb the blunt arete in a spectacular position with hard moves to the anchor. It helps to have a positive ape-index for the last move. Beautiful climb in a spectacular position.

The Big Sky Corner is the free version of the route Pin Job in Rossiter's Boulder Canyon guide, page 117, route 24. This is one of the best sport routes in Boulder Canyon and one best technical stemming pitches anywhere. Climb up a groove past three bolt gaining a large ledge. Clip a bolt and traverse right gainging a small ledge. Here were the fun begins. Make a series of technical moves up a steep face to a horizontal crack, make a hard move to gain the corner proper and begin forty feet of technical stemming up the beautiful corner moving left at the overhang. Continue left using small face holds and a pocket in the overhang. One last technical move lead to the anchor. Great route in a great position high above Boulder Canyon.

Description

Protection

Routes in Pin Dome