Start standing in the middle of the face on opposing sidepulls and good feet, then head up towards a glory jug using cool slopers and tricky footwork. The right arete is a different problem

The Mallard

Hammer of Earl

Inner Path

Monkberry Moon Delight

The Mollusk

The Pit of Doom

Late to the Party

Tailfeathers

Crowbar Combat

REALiTi

Be the Cowboy

Switchback

Snake Jazz

Danger Pony

Switchblade

King of the Bongo

4 star movement, albeit a bit contrived. Start low on the bottom right side of the boulder on a sloper and finger bucket. Move up and left and join the original start of King of the Bongo. Move the left hand up to the last good hold on King of the Bongo and stretch back right through a couple slopers to a good right hand sidepull. Rather than bail for the arete, head straight up the face, compressing on a couple of OK left hand holds until you can hit the huge right hand jug and top out. The line is a bit funny, but the movement is very good, the holds are awesome and the landing is sufficient with a couple pads.

Sit start low in the pit with right hand on an ok side pull and left hand on the slopey part of the arete. Move steeply up, using all rock available (the boulder at your back, the chockstone, and the fin of rock low and left for feet), and top out direct, rocking onto the chockstone. The movement on this is a lot better than it looks.

 There are other ways to top out, but they involve using the thick tree roots.The tree roots aren't necessarily off, but try not to use or otherwise damage them when climbing here. The problem goes fine without using anything but rock for feet or hands, and I think the roots add a cool aesthetic to the bloc.

 A good v4 eliminate problem called "Inner Path (to Space)" uses only the main boulder  and the chockstone. This climbs very well and doesn't feel as contrived as it may look. A super contrived version without using anything but the main boulder clocks in at v6ish.

Ultra fun V0, plain and simple. Start in the middle on some edges above your head, cruise up on positive crimps, slot a bomber hand jam or two, and mantle with just enough air underneath your feet to get your heart pounding. Classic.

Abbey Pond's very own roof crack! Unfortunately quite short, but the movement is good and the hand jams are steeeep! Start low and deep with right hand in the lowest hand jam just as the crack begins to narrow after the large chockstone. Get those feet up and power out the short roof on excellent jams until you can slap the good sloper (top of the boulder) where the crack ends. Swing the feet over and mantle for the send.

A fun problem down in the pit with Inner Path. Start matched on the far right side of the boulder on some horrible slopers and a good foot. A few slaps out left will set you up for a precise jump move to a jug. Top out as for Inner Path. The line stays underneath the cool tree root the whole time.

A very good, very hard, one move wonder.  Start on King of the Bongo, move left to the obvious gaston, hike your right foot up and gas it to the positive sidepull. Easy top out. Had chalk on it, has this been climbed before? Grade is guesswork

Head up the arete using sidepulls and slopers

The rightmost arete on the large, triangular boulder. Start with both hands on a huge shelf and move up and left using some tricky crimps and slopers. Two big jugs tame the top out, but you'll finish with a healthy amount of air under your feet

Start standing low near the bottom of the arete with right hand on a small positive feature, and left just above. Get the feet up and start slapping towards the top of the boulder... poor feet make this a more engaging line than one might expect. Top out at the apex of the boulder, same as Switchback.

Fun compression moves on positive slopers leads to a cool rock-over move to top out. Start low with your left hand on a small jug and your right on a low sloper, make a big move up and right and start squeezing.

Probably not new. I drank a can of Switchback after doing it, and it's kinda got a switchback on it, hence, Switchback. Lemme know what the OG name is if it's got one. Took me significantly more effort than Bongo but I suck at heel hooking so grade is up in the air.

 Starts on an obvious edge/slot with smeary feet, move left through decent edges before making a big move right to a crimp in the center of the face. Topout direct.

 Oh yeah it's over a pit but it's not bad.

Start low matched on a slopey sidepull. Big slaps, bumps, and a sneaky heel hook will get you to the main face where a series of draining moves on crimps leads to a heartbreaker move to the lip. No one move is terribly difficult but they all add up.

A super fun lip traverse with a sub-optimal landing. 20+ moves will bring you from the lowest point on the boulder to the top. No definite crux but the moves add up. Get someone to shuffle pads for you, this one covers a lot of ground.

Start matched on the large jug rail on the left side of the boulder. Move straight up using a few of the holds on Switchback and a cool sloper. Top out as for Switchback and REALiTi.

Recently discovered beta has made this problem a bit more consistent and maybe even a bit more fun. Big moves between good edges leads to a small crimp for your left hand. Match this and head left into a gaston and then the lip. For those of us with big sausage fingers who don't know how to match, a harder (V8ish) variation skips the tricky match and takes a slightly more direct line using a sloping crimp up and to the right.

A fun collection of boulders just up the hill from the Trailside boulders. These boulders are at the bottom of a talus field so bring a lot of pads - most of the landings are pretty jumbled and need to be well padded out

Description

Location

Routes in Talus Field Boulders