Buckskin Billy is another great moderate at the Wild Iris, and makes for a pretty good warmup on the Rode Hard Wall.  Unfortunately some of the most difficult moves come right off the deck, which can be a bit of a shock straight out of the sleeping bag.

Begin on the far right end of the low angled wall.  Overcome a steep bulge with good pockets & poor feet, to gain the easy slab above.  Cruise up the simple slab to a steepening headwall.  An engaging sequence of fun pocket moves leads to the top of the headwall.

Buckskin Billy

Arizona Cowgirl

Piss and Vinegar

Tomahawk Slam

Copenhagen Angel

Cowboy Joe

Wind and Rattlesnakes

Hired Guns

Frankenstein

Belle Star

Easy Ridin'

Windy West

Rode Hard and Put Up Wet

3:10 To Yuma

Phony Express

Ewe On My Mind

Merlin Hulbert

Nine Horse Johnson

Full Circle

Cowboy Joe is another great moderate at the Main Wall, and is more sustained at the grade than its neighbor to the right.  The route begins relatively tamely for a The Wild Iris 5.10, and culminates with a challenging finish.

Begin in a dark grey depression with a few lieback moves to get established on the wall.  Follow the easy slab to the clean white headwall above, just right of the black streak.  Fight the pump through sequential, fun pocket moves up the steep finishing headwall.  Although less steep that similarly graded route on the Five Ten Wall, there routes are a bit longer, and offer at least as many interesting moves.

Thin moves with abundant but small feet from the start.  You will pull on sidepulls, small pockets and crimps.  Hardest moves through the first two bolts, but remains thin until you reach the middle of the wall.  Hero pocket climbing to the anchors from here.

A fun climb for a one move wonder.  Fun obvious movement may leave you wondering where to go.  No, I don't know a way to do it static.  Giddeyye up.

This pretty line starts with thin pockets on a vertical face going around 11b.  It is worth the ride alone, especially if the occasionally there lowering biners are in just before the roof.  A couple big moves send you through the roof and sets you up for the last clip.  The crux comes as you grope just above the roof and the holds shrink.  Crank the bouldery powerful crux to land yourself on the vert slab above.

Sweet movement.  Pretty and continuous.  Start with a few easier pulls heading up and right into the bulging start.  Don't think its over too soon.  Keep on it!

The burly start leads to easier climbing above. The crux comes right off the ground with hard pulls to two monos, and eventually better pockets by the second bolt. Make another Hard to read move up left to the side pull and up to better pockets. The head wall is really fun.

Stick clip is handy on this one.

Climbs out the center of the beautiful 70 degree overhang on sinker pockets, crimps, and pinches. The obvious line is V6, and variations are described below.

This is the leftmost route on Buckskin Billy wall, 15 feet right of Easy Ridin'. A tricky start leads to easier climbing above.

Easy Ridin is an excellent warmup, and perhaps one of the most enjoyable 5.10s at the Wild Iris.  The route offers steeper climbing (for the grade) on relatively large jugs, and requires a variety of techniques in addition to straight down pullin'.

Work up a shallow left-facing offset to a stance below a steep bulge.  Follow excellent incut juggy pockets over the cruxy bulge to a shallow, rounded corner and a good shake.  Punch up & left out of the corner, up the beautiful white & black speckled headwall on excellent pockets.

Start on Wind and Rattlesnakes, climb to the 3rd bolt,  then trend left and climb the steep prow past 3 more bolts on excellent pockets. I recommend putting a longer quickdraw on the 3rd to help reduce drag when clipping the last bolt. I felt the climbing to be very continuous and sustained with a crux sequence exiting the bulge. Established summer 2011.

Sustained hard burly climbing!!!  Climb the vertical face which was much harder than I expected (felt like 12a to me) past three bolts.  The hardest moves are between the second and third bolt with some good air time if you blow it.

Make a desperate clip behind your head on the roof and get ready for a fight.  Good holds allow you to clip one more bolt before the big crux move.  The guide book mentions something about a figure four which I actually tried to no a vale.  I finally just got as high as I could and tossed for the ticked hold over the roof which is pretty good if you hit it right.

This route is an amazing endurance power test piece and a must do if your feeling strong.

Good route. Pull the tricky bulge at the start and ewnjoy good holds up the slab to an engaging head wall with good pockets.

Alternate ending to Rode Hard and Put up Wet.

This line takes the left side of the really clean slab. Climb up small and holds with a few sinkers to a tricky crux before the third bolt. Gain the jugs below the roof and power up and left to the chains. Some of the footholds were a little friable, but a good climb regardless.

Fun climb and a good warm up! Like the route to the left, this one starts with a tricky bugle to mellower climbing. Climb the easy slab to a rest before the vertical section, and enjoy long pulls on great pockets to the chains.

Nine Horse Johnson is an excellent new addition to the Rode Hard Wall, climbing the enormous roof via acrobatic footwork.  Its surprising that such an excellent line sat neglected for more than 15 years between two legendary climbs.  In any case, this is an excellent moderate, featuring likely the steepest 5.11 climbing at The Wild Iris.

Begin with easy moves up a coral-covered flake.  Surmount the flake, then launch onto the beautiful white panel.  Sequential, long reaches between sinker two-finger pockets ascend the panel to a so-so shake below the roof.  Head left, then out the roof on enormous jugs to the lip.  Grope for hard-to see pockets above the lip as the pump builds.  An unlikely foothold provides passage when things get desperate.

shares the first four bolts with "copenhagen" and then busts out left in the roof/bulge, hard boulder problem exit

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in F. Rode Hard Wall