Slap That

Peal of Laughter

Poof! You're a Pomegranite!

Jeff Smeared Eileen

Crucifix

Hang Man

Fred P. Jones

Poof! You're an Avocado

Goat Crap or The Ladder

Playback

Vegematic

Looking Glass

Tom Cane Loves You

Corner Edge

More or Less

Un-named

Outside Looking in

Thit or Tam Cam Loves You

Roof Roof

Power Tower

Fool's Overture

A Little Harder One

Spiderman

Seduction Crack

Mother's Day Mayhem

The Sphinx

Canes Crack

Raid

Beer Crack

Freddie Kreuger

Fearsome Fern Flake

Lets Stand Him on His Head

Little Feat

The Thinker

Mr. Smiley

The Joker

Older but Weissner

Kansas

Prince of Darkness

Chunky Chimbly

Baseball

Triple Overhang

Black Beauty

Climbski

Unnamed

Finger Frolic

Tumbleweed

Super Sonic Flake

Jeff Loves Eileen

Dark Star

Comic Kink

Unhinged or the Hinge

Mark's Crack

Tiny Corners

La Mouche

Good Boulder Problem

Who Put That There?

Seque

Sit on It

Superman

Educational Corner

Applesauce

Goat Crack

Moon Walk

The Clown

Marvin Gardens

Da Ma Was Here

The Warmup

Cold Tomorrow

Sno-White

Kinky Kruise

Dance on a Volcano

Cool-Headed

Loose Lobster

Curbar Edge

Dany's Demise

One Over The Hill

Zippity Doo Dah

Sister Moonshine

Windex

Flake Off

Spider Web

Peach Fuzz

The Dreamer is to Hard

The Dreamer

Muntjack

Opening moves are a V1or 2 boulder problem. Many fall here, but once you figure it out it’s not too bad. There is a crux about half way up and the final moves at a ledge near the top is the third crux. 

Make bouldering moves directly up the face into a tough overhang.  Pull onto a ledge to awkward moves through a second overhang.  Finish on slopers to the top.

 For TR setup, be sure to extend your anchors over the edge of the second overhang or you will destroy your rope.

Balance your way on to the low ledges then continue right through what at times can seem like a blank face.

One of the better slab climbs at Moss Island- a few crimpy and frictiony moves with good rests. Another product of Moss Island convolutions. Climb the face right of Jeff Loves Eileen without using 1. the crack of Jeff Loves Eileen, 2. the arete to the right or 3. any of the ledges that are too nice. Got that all? Enjoy. Easy to do after setting up Jeff Loves Eileen.

 The guy who told me about it didn't give it a name- only saw him there once... It isn't in the local guidebook.

Across from Moss Island on the other side of the tracks is a visible Cross Crack.  Scurry up the ridge to climb the crack.  There is a belay station half way up if wanted.  I think this is a GREAT Crack climb.  I now live in Sphinx Park with abundant crack climbs, and I remember this to be stellar.

The left most route on the piece of cliff that juts into the road. Just to the right of a 4th class scramble to the top. This route moves up into a corner with a crack in it then either go straight over the roof (hard) or either left or right (easier).

One of the best routes at Little Falls and listed at 5.10+ in the old guidebook, Fred P. Jones is a great, steep, sustained route, probably in the low 5.11 range.  The lower section is the route's technical crux, climbing through good crimps to gain a big horizontal jug "rest."  The top half of the route gets progressivly more overhanging with big moves through good-but-not-great holds.

About 8 feet right of Pomegranate is this route following a serious of small flake edges and tiny feet to the top.

Climb horizontals that make large holds to the left of Goat Crack and to the right of Goat Corner. Very easy route would make a good top rope for your gumby friends you bring climbing.

Climb the big holds on the blunt Arete just to the right of the corner to the right of the rock face that over hangs the road.

Thin, balancy climbing just less than vertical.  A fun route that's entirely dependent on your ability to use your feet rather than your strength.

Just right of the arete is face full of small edges leading up to a roof. Turn right at the roof to keep it at grade or continue out the roof for a 5.11 adventure.

An obvious crack left of Triple Overhang  Some say do not use the arete on the left  

There appears to be some confusion between guidebooks. There is "Corner Edge," "Curbar," and "Curbar Edge" listed. This rouse doesn't seem to appear in the Childs' book. The description in Arietta Climbing's guide has taken the description from Childs' "Curbar Edge", but I believe them to be different climbs. Childs' "Curbar Edge" is "Curbar" in Arietta Climbing's guide. I think. 

 Vegatation present, have fun with that.

Scramble over the large blocks to gain the smooth face. Use horizontals to gain the top of the cliff.

The obvious severe overhanging face directly above the Duck Ramp. This would be an excellent V6 if it wasn't for the fifteen foot scramble to get to the base of it. Climb on horizontal crimp rails to the right of the arete, making a big move out left to a slopey jug (crux #1), get set up and make another desperate move out left to a three finger crimp (crux #2) and finally make a desperate crossover move to a slot jug that needs to be hit very precisely (crux #3). Out of the five moves on this classic 'bolter problem' three are pretty burly... Pretty heady on lead due both to the impending fall onto the ledge and the pure difficulty of the moves... A Little Falls classic for the hardmen.  

  I don't believe this has ever been freed on lead, please correct me if I'm wrong.

Climb up the arete to the right of the slab. Balancy tough moves for the grade.

Climb the crack splitting the face to the left of the large chimney like thing.

Work up through the dark tiered roofs just right of Spider Web. Easier climbing comes after pulling the roofs.

Climb the vertical face with several horizontal cracks running through it just to the left of the arête.

A technical and mildly overhanging route just around the corner from the large overhang of Little Feat and Spiderman. 

  Start just to the left and around the corner from the big overhangs.  The route starts on the small face in between the corner and an offwidth crack.  Make a couple bouldery moves to reach jugs; move up and right to finish on small edges.

Climb over the bulge to two horizon seams.  Stay out of the chimney on the right, go directing over the bulge.  Short people have a harder time and requires sideways positioning.  

Spiderman is a rarely climbed, and very steep, route on the large roof that overhangs the road.  Start under the largest part of the roof (towards the right end) on a small fingertip undercling, move straight up through the tiers (crux), and finish by pulling straight through the small triangular nose to reach jugs and top. 

  The most natural line through this overhang links Little Feat and Spiderman, and is probably 5.11a/b.  For this variation, follow Little Feat to just below the main roof, make an obvious hand traverse right, then pull the small nose as for Spiderman.

First few moves on some directional holds then big moves on good holds to the top.

A fun, airy little route. Starts off with easy, blocky steps and holds to a positions underneath an overhanging block.  Reach up and around, find good holds and pull yourself up to easier climbing.

Pretty much straight up through the outcrop.

Using the same crack to start as Triple Hang gain the top of the column then continue using the right crack to the top missing the harder moves of the route to the left.

Climb left of center, keeping out of corner. Slab climbing with good feet (rock is surprising gritty and sharp here).

A few tough hand crack moves through the crux.

Takes the overhung line right next door to Fred P. Jones.  A body tension low crux brings you to the obvious horizontal, after which follows an upper crux consisting of a sequency set of small crimps.  Highly recommended

Starting on the more vertical face to the right of Prince of Darkness use the small crack and little holds to climb the face. Step left and finish on the Prince of Darkness overhang.

Corner system just to the right of the popular Snow White.

This route, along with Spiderman, ascends the large roof that overhangs the road.  Start at the lower right corner of the vertical, beige-colored face, under the roof's tiers.  Move up and left under the tiers, turn the main roof at the left end, and to the top. 

  The most natural line through this overhang links Little Feat and Spiderman, and is probably 5.11a/b.  For this variation, follow Little Feat to just below the main roof, make an obvious hand traverse right, then pull the small nose as for Spiderman.

A good quality route near the east end of the cliffs.  Nothing fancy, just straightforward yet surprisingly fun climbing, relatively sustained in difficulty.

Mr. Smiley resides in the shady corner to the left of the ever popular Goat Crack and Jeff Loves Eileen. Start on an undercling making big moves to small, somewhat slippery crimps. Bring up the feet and launch off small crimps to a decent ledge. Lock it down by cruising easier terrain to the top. Harder if short

Just right of The Clown pull through tough holds traversing right to a horizontal crack. From there move up and left to good holds to the more vertical top finish.

One of the better routes at Moss Island. Follow the blunt corner to the top. Moving right before the top does make it easier.

Start with a traverse right to gain a crack. Lay this back to gain a variety of face holds beneath a roof.  Step around the roof or pull it for more adventure.

A dihedral just to the left of the Bob King Area. Start on a bit of a bouldery start before pulling up into the chimney.

Start on the face then into the arete  with a few good holds then back onto the face before you get to the slight roof.  The wall on the right does not need to be used.  Bolts at the top to set up a TR.

On the right side of the a pillar beneath several tiered roofs is a crack. Climb this crack to the top of the pillar then lean back and crank your way over the roofs.  This route does have enough gear placements to be safely done on lead.

The prominent face climbing route on this section of cliff. Climb the Beautiful face using small edges and cracks to a horizontal breakdown band. Crank out the last couple moves to the top.

A fun little crack that usually sees plenty of action in warm weather.

A fun climb on the face between the Goat Crack and the Jeff Loves Eileen crack. As per Moss Island rules, you can use neither crack for holds while climbing. One of the good slab climbs at Moss Island, good movement, somewhat clever, as you must angle between the cracks.

Use ripples and tweekers to surmount the bulging face just right of the Supersonic Flake before the Beer Crack.  

A bit left of the duck ramp and obvious face of Jeff Loves Eileen lies a right angling hand crack with copious jugs. No distinct crux, just good old low angle monkeying.

Climb the faint crack to the right of Zippity Do Dah. Tough for the grade even for Little Falls.

Jeff Loves Eileen is a very popular beginner climb on a slabby face - probably the most popular route at Little Falls.  The route follows a diagonal crack that climbs more like a face climb than a crack climb.  Good hands in the crack and small edges for feet are the name of the game, with a few jams near the top.  A good choice for new climbers, or for a first trad lead.

Start up on good sized jugs until a few feet below the overhang, then move onto small crimps towards the left of the overhang to the top.

Climb up to a small ledge then find a way to get over the interesting columnar roof features.

Easy start into some crimpy face moves then finishes on a pinch to the top. No bolts at the top (yet), but there is a nice crack that can take a #3, #1, and #.75 about 3' back from the edge.

Climb the steep face past a small corner and overhang.

Climb the center of the slab face above the word "Dave." Some dancing left or right to helps to find better holds.

Begin on crimps under the overhang.  Climb straight out of the hole and up the slopers on the face above.  Wall to the left is off.

Climb the corner to a ledge. Once you make it the roof step left to keep the grade easier.

Climb the blocky slight corner up the middle of the Dick and Carol Area.

Located in the 'Bob King' sector, Sit on It climbs the seemingly blank face between Beer Crack and Tumbleweed. The face is slightly overhanging for its lower half, changing into a dead vertical face for the remaining half. There is literally only one hold on the route that is not a crimp. 

  Aid: A3   Climb about 2/3 of the face on pins until a vertical crack can be gained. This crack accepts a finger size Alien/TCU. 

  Free: 5.13+   This route is currently an open project that will likely go at 5.13+ R. Start in the middle of the blank face with hands high on half pad crimps and feet on the small ledge below. Make desperate moves on 1/8th pad dime edges for the first 10 feet until a good incut 1/5th pad crimp offers some reprieve and the entrance the the 5.11+ outro. A yellow or gray Alien can be had about 2/3 of the way up the route, though the climbing above it is extremely moderate.

Superman takes the most direct line out the overhang and up the middle of the face next to Spiderman. Start by cranking through a series of body tension intensive moves on relatively large holds to gain the lip. Once at the crux lip, edge on small crimps past an old rusty anchor finally reaching massive jugs. Strong crimpers and good steeps-technique will deposit you at the top where you can turn around and let out much anticipated undulation.

Work your way up the corner using stemming or the jugs your choice. Would make a good lead for the novice.

A few feet left of a left-facing inside corner climb straight up the face to the top.

Rumor has it that the FA of this route was done by a local goat.  It, and its neighbor Jeff Loves Eileen, make good beginner climbs, and take good gear as well.

Start to the right of Black Beauty on the right of the two column like rock features that make up this part of the cliff. Starting to the left makes it a bit easier. Climb the face over a few overhangs to gain the technical face above that does not relent all the way to the top.

Directly beneath the widest point of the roof starts this tough climb. Crank through hard moves on small slots straight out the middle of the roof. Start directly below an outside corner above the widest peak of the roof.   

  A variation is The Buffoon (5.9) that goes out the roof on the left. 

  A second variation is The Fool (5.10-)* that goes out the roof on the night.

Move over three or four feet to the right of the rounded arête and go straight up the face.

Climb the flaring crack just to the right of the Jeff Loves Eileen Wall. There is a pine tree growing out of the crack that must be climbed around. This climb would make a good first lead.

Scramble up a ledge covered in brush beneath a slight left-leaning corner. Up a crack-in-a-corner with a number of positive holds. Pretty good quality actually, but short. A good early lead, or a quick TR for a beginner

Start on the rounded arête and work your way up along the arête and the left face. The start feet are slick from wear. Some high-stepping moves makes this easier for taller climbers (maybe half to a full rating easier).

Start on the boulders then go up either side of the face to the thin area at the top. Anchors at the top so your rope will be right over the thin area. Try not to use the holds on the right.  Can use the same anchors for the easier climb on the right

Start in a corner and move through it's slight overhang to a ledge, then reach up and break a roof on it's right side.

Start the same as for Vegematic, but continue directly up the bulging face above. Very thin.  

On the first noticeable rock as you walk in from the lock, this is the obvious nose jutting out at a low angle.  Fun and easy for first timers, and a quick solo for S & giggles.

Climb up obvious jugs to the ledge and pull onto it using a pinch on the back wall then 2-3 more jugs to the top.

Climb the right side of the slab but still left of the arete. Balancy moves over a tiny roof.

A fun route with a nice variety of movement and holds.  The route ascends a slightly overhanging face, then moves right around the arete and finishes with a few slabby face moves. 

  The route is listed as 5.9 in the old guidebook, but is probably in the low 5.10 range in reality.

Climb the slighlty better yet still tough holds to the left of the Beer Crack over the slight bulge.

Formerly known as The Virgin due to the fact that nobody could climb it (supposedly, even Lynn Hill made an unsuccessful attempt at it), One Over The Hill was eventually freed on lead.  This thin overhanging crack is rarely climbed, and even then, usually on toprope.  A series of small face holds near the crack were eventually found to be crucial to the top section of this route.

Climb the big, right leaning flake system just to the right of the obvious chimney crack.  Up to a fat ledge and onto easier climbing to the top.  Sometimes a little wet.

Also known as Snow White Direct, climb the short face left of the start of Snow White.  Delicate moves put you at a sloper under the overhang.  Deadpoint or dyno to the ledge, then finish the same as Snow White.

Climb the thin face just right of the crack that splits the face to the right of Jeff Loves Eileen. Using the crack to the left would severly drop the grade.

Climb the layback crack in the corner just right of One Over The Hill. The crack becomes very overhanging at the top.

Work your way up and into the corner using good foot placement and finding the small hidden holds. Steep climbing continues to the top.

The lock gave permission to carve a path to the start of this climb which hasn’t seen much action since approx 2008. Start on the block just left of the faint peace sign and the orange streak on the wall. A thin first move leads to good horizontals and the top. A variation further left is “ Peach Pit” 5.9 start at the lowest block and head straight up. Much harder and thinner. Very slippery. 

Climb the crimpy arete just to the right of The Dreamer. At the top move slightly left and over the top.

A good route that used to be 5.9 until a key hold broke at the crux.  It is now probably somewhere in the mid-5.10 range.  Easy climbing at the beginning and end of the route, with a very thin, delicate crux on a dead vertical wall in the middle.

Moss Island is the most popular crag at Little Falls, and a good place to spend a day toproping or to bring new climbers to. The main cliff band is on the southern edge of the island and faces south, making it very hot on sunny summer days. The northern side of the island features several boulder problems, which stay much cooler in the summer. It is often called an "outdoor climbing gym."I have yet to hear a definitive determination of the rock type at Moss Island. Some say it is gneiss; some say it is black granite. Regardless, Moss Island was victim to severe grafitti in years past, and while the paint is slowly wearing off, some still remains. The un-painted areas offer decent friction properties and a range of small edges and rounded slopers. The angle of the walls is quite varied, with several slabs, vertical walls, and steep overhangs.Leading: Only a handful of routes accept good gear for leading. The rock is generally very solid, and holds gear well. Other than top anchors, not there are no protection bolts on Moss Island.Toproping: Many of the routes have top bolts for anchors on Moss Island.  You'll need long webbing to set up climbs since many of the bolts are at least 1'-4' back from the edge. Access to the top is easily gained at either end of the cliff, or via one of the many 3rd class ascent/descent routes along the wall.Routes range from 5.0 to 5.12c, with everything in between. That said, sandbagging is a bit of a tradition here. Every inch of this wall has been climbed at some point or another, don't even think about a first ascent. The now out-of-print guidebook lists around 100 named routes; some good, some bad, some incredibly contrived. A new digital guidebook written by Gary Thomann details 81 routes with full-color zoom-able photos/lines and GPS-enabled maps, and is available in the Gunks+ app. Good and popular routes of various grades include:Jeff Loves Eileen (5.4)The Thinker (5.7)Older but Weissner (5.8)Sno-White (5.8)The Dreamer (5.9)Curbar Edge (5.9)Triple Overhang (5.10a)Fool's Overture (5.10a)Fred P. Jones (5.10+)Spiderman (5.11d)One Over The Hill (5.12c)

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Moss Island