Starting ~20' right of the large detached pillar/block on the east face, climb up the steepest section of rock, utilizing stems, underclings, and small crystalline crimps past 5 bolts. The line is direct, but it is hard to tell exactly where to go because of some nearby stray bolts (supposedly, an easier .10a variation breaks out left past a separate bolt and then joins the direct line higher up). A 25+ foot runout on 5.easy ground takes you to a bolted rap anchor off to climber's right (shared with Squeeze-In 5.9+ and Hide it From the Cops 5.8). It appears that the original anchor for this route, located directly above the line, has been chopped. Rock quality is mediocre-to-good, but the moves are technical and challenging.

Planet X

5.5 Crack

Genuflect

Out of Africa

Bermuda's Slab

Rap Not

Squeeze-In

Hide it From the Cops

Stumper

Pull The Wool

Riot In Ephesis

Fly By Night

Bermuda Triangle

Chunks From Above

Stuck In The Mud

Genuflect starts from the right side of a large boulder then goes straight up the cliff with a long runnout on easy ground when you approach the anchor. This route shares the finish with Out of Africa.

An easy an obvious finger-to-hand crack up the center of the low angle slab. I'd guess this thing was first done long ago (70's?), as there are a few larger angle piton scars in the crack.

On the large east-facing wall (right of the "Bermuda Triangle" roof), this line ascends sharp angular holds up a vertical face immediately left of the detached pillar/block. Scramble up 30 feet of unprotected 5.easy to the vert face and the first bolt. The crux comes a few feet after the first bolt, and just before the second. Have an attentive belayer because a fall here might deposit you back on the ledge. Climb up to the A-frame roof above and tackle it direct or escape out the right side. A short runout on easy ground takes you to the anchors. A 60 meter rope is a MUST for this route - we only had ~15' left after lowering off the anchor.

A short but fun excercise in thin face/slab climbing. Climb up past some dubious rock (only 8 feet or so) to the semi-steep slab. A committing move or two on some 1/4" calcite crimps gets you to the high first bolt, 15+ feet up. The crux is protected by this bolt. A ledge above contains a 2 bolt rap anchor. One could scramble up from the right to access the anchors if wanting to TR the line.

Rap Not is located down the highway on a road blast before Beluga Point.  Climb seven spaced out bolts up the only good rock on this wall.  Clip bolts and rap or walk off.

Squeeze-In starts on the first two bolts of Planet X before moving right to a runout third bolt.  Clip three more bolts on you way to the anchor shared with Hide It From The Cops.

A short but fun route with good stone on the right end of the east wall. Climb up the fault-polished, low-angle slab with incut edges and surmount the final overhang/roof to anchors.

Stumper starts at the same first two bolts as Riot In Ephesis on a low angle rock to the right of Bermuda Triangle.  Keep climbing right flowing the bolt line straight to the anchor.  (read comment below about loose bolts)

Pull The Wool is the right most climb of the main face.  It climbs past a few small roofs and on to the top of the cliff.  Bring some small gear for the runnout section on chossy rock below the last bolt.  A few sling are nice on this 33m climb so also bring a long rope or be careful.

Riot In Ephesis is right around the corner from Bermuda Triangle.  Climb an easy crack to reach a overhanging section.  Pull onto the face and cut out right to find the anchor.

There is a solid placement for a #1/.75 cam below the first bolt located 12' off the ground. Climb the face to the left of the overhanging arete area found at ground level near the parking lot.

This is somewhat of a classic route for the highway. Not many people lead this climb, so HTFU and lead it. Climb past two bolts that have large bashes for hangers. Clipping the second bolt is scary and hard. Do not blow the second clip you could hit the ground.

Chunks from Above is located 30' to the right of Bermuda's Slab.  Look for the first bolt located 30' up the route with a 2 bolt chain anchor above the bolt.

Stuck In The Mud climbs a wide, rotten crack that takes gear.  Climb loose rock all the way up the cliff till you can top out and go left to find the anchor.

A small area before Beluga point.  Contains a pretty high density of climbs but can suffer from loose rock and being right on the road syndrom.   Wear a helmet as always and be prepared for some weird bolting/anchoring.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Bermuda Triangle