This is a great, short climb on excellent stone. It is a good introduction to the art of the layback.

Uncle Remus (aka Short Corner)

Muffin Man (aka Leaning Corner or Moderation)

OW Corner

Left Leaner

Blood Pulse

Calcite Fingers

Zig-Zag

The Frank Zappa Appreciation Society (aka Cobra Roof)

Zombie Woof (submitted as Big Hands Roof)

The Curve

My Big 3 Inch (no plaque at bottom)

Hands to OW Chimney (unknown due to no plaque)

Slightly Overhanging Wide Corner (unknown no plaque)

Short Dihedral

Far Right Corner

Mr. Sheley

Green Cam Lieback (aka Pasta Maker, aka Brick Head)

Flake (unknown there was no plaque)

Point 5 roof

Dirty Red Cam Corner

Fork It (HVS)

Hanging to the Right (unknown due to no plaque)

Beside the Pillar

One Bolt Wonder (unknown not a plaque)

Short, Some Hands

Hands to OW

The crux for most may be the beginning section where it can be awkward. After getting into the acute corner, it gets more secure. This is a good climb of decent length and varied sizes.

This is a good, wide corner that starts off big hands, goes to fists, and to stacked hands towards the top. The section where you pull through the bulge on fists and when it gets near the top seem to be the cruxes.

Just to the right of the

Short Dihedral

in the chimney lies a crack that moves out the left side. It curves up the wall to anchors though half inch to 2 inch cams. It is amazing climbing up high on the pitch, and the bottom is not memorable.

Jesse Zacher and I checked this pitch out together and were both ready to overlook it for being too short and the start being too blank, but after both of us messed around on it, we realized that it had such unique movement that it had to be climbed.

This is a short, powerful crack. A thin and bouldery face section moves past a bolt to reach the thin crack. Finger locks get tighter as you move up and the main crack ends. Switch to the left seam past a 5 inch section to some balancy moves past the seam to the hand jam clip at the anchor.

Through the ever present Chinle, do some small jams and crimps past the calcite. Climb fingers to a pod, then gun for the anchors where it gets really small....

This is an awesome route that goes through varied and unique moves. It is not your typical plug and play. The crux comes at the top! It is short but engaging and just plain fun!

There are two cruxes after the initial 5.11- start. The first crux is an undercling right on tips to tips lieback. The second crux is an undercling campus out roof into ring locks to anchor.

This is a great long route that puts a bit of hurt on you through a small roof and up wide hands/fists. Be careful on the lower section. Your belayer may want to plug something into the Chinle as you are perched on a bit of a knoll.

This is a great climb with the crux right off of the deck. Finger jam high enough to sink a tight hand and continue up this tight hand/hands crack as it curves slightly to the left with the right side of the crack overlapping a bit. This climb is not to be missed!

Climb the right-facing dihedral through the short roof onto the perfect splitter.

Stem off the boulder into the left-leaning crack. Climb the hands to the 6 inch chimney to the ledge belay.

Just a few feet to the right of

Hanging to the Right

, the beautiful but silty dihedral climbs to anchors just after a slight overhang.

Just 30 (or so) feet to the right of the

Big Hands Roof

is a dihedral. The climbing is broken by a huge ledge, but it is still fun. There are a couple ways to get to the ledge.

This ascends a corner system with many parallel cracks leading to the top (even though they are hidden).

It is to the right of the pillar at the far right side of the Zappa Wall. Start on some junky ledges until you begin climbing up a dihedral (protects with a small cam), then the route eases off to the top. Be aware of loose material on the route.

This is the ever-widening offwidth dihedral to the left of the

Zig-Zag

route.

Protect this with lots of green cams up the perfect dihedral. No rest comes until the dihedral disappears and it becomes a thin crack into a offwidth.

Climb the left-facing flake to the ledge and two bolt anchor. It has fun jamming and liebacking to the top with great gear.

This has sustained climbing through fingers in an acute corner with periodic stem rests. The crux coming through and pulling over the #0.5 roof. A few more strenuous moves get you to a decent rest and an awkward move to the anchors. If it wasn't for the light colored rock, this would be a classic!

Just to the left of the

Leaning Corner

is a hands to thin hands to fingers crack. A little runoff comes down the corner, so it looks dusty. It can be top roped if you climb the 5.8 and walk to the anchor on the other side (left). It's a good size to work, so don't be discouraged by a little dust on the wall. One run and it's pretty clean.

The climb goes to the top of the wall (I have not climbed it yet, but it looked like a fun adventure. I will eventually check it out to the top and find out. The top pitch(es) look clean and interesting).

Thin pinky jams from a Chinle band leads to a bigger size. Keep jamming up a widening crack as it gets steeper. You can get a hand in once in a while. When it gets steepest, it gets easier. It can be dirty.

Head up the thin moves off the ramp to a zig-zag crack, and then climb right to the hand jams up top.

It is possible to exit to the left and follow the fingers up to the anchor also, 5.10.

Start off working through a little overhang that can be tricky, but it is fun. Move into small hands to hands to the top.

Start to the left of the dirty red cam crack at a bolt. Climb bolt and move left into the crack and follow the dihedral to the two bolt anchor. The finish uses #0.75s and really fun!

Climb a few feet of choss to gain the splitter corner that widens to hand and fists towards the top. Nearing the anchor, it becomes wide and blocky.

Start up a bit of a rotten hand crack that gets slightly overhung. Pull into some fists in a clean corner. Keep chugging as it gets wider and wider. Towards the top, squeeze to the ledge and the anchors.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Zappa Wall