Myself, Mark, and Mike took turns leading this, placing one bolt each on the FA. Later Thomas Beck removed these and retro-bolted it with a few more. 

  Climb out the right side of an alcove then angle left and up through perfect washboard horizontal edges to an anchor.

Captain's Table

Gaffer's Game

Swallowtail's Delight

Dark Matter

Dark Horse 8

Captain Crumbowl

Himalayan Siren

Crazy Harry

Telly Monster

Aristocats

A Door to the Outside

Tokyo Cat

Pepper Ploy

Great technical flow for the grade. Start immediately to the left of the alcove. If desired to increase the grade, start with a bouldery move from within the alcove making a strenuous reachy move to the crimp below the first bolt.  

You'll spend about as much time clipping bolts as you will making moves.

Climb left of a faint grey streak, passing a cluster of hanging green plants on the left, pull a small bulge and angle right to the belay on a nice ledge.

This is a great new route on the Universal Wall. Like most multipitch climbs on Mt Charleston, it is scrappy and chossy at times (bring helmets), but it is a fun adventure and the two crux pitches are incredible (subjective star ratings assigned to each pitch below).*P1 (80’, 5.10a, 8x Bolts): Climb chert ladder to belay stance on block in recess. Link easily with the next pitch if you can manage rope drag and conserve draws.*P2 (100’, 5.10b, 7x Bolts): Continue up chert ladder to bolted anchors on long ledge. Move belay 20’ right to end of ledge.**P3 (100’, 5.11a, 8x Bolts): Climb loose corner to difficult final moves to good belay ledge. Link easily with the next pitch if you can manage rope drag and conserve draws.**P4 (60’, 5.11a, 6x Bolts): Climb right-facing flakes to good ledge.***P5 (100’, 5.12a, 14x Bolts): Climb right-facing corner to roof. Sustained climbing leads through bulge and slab crux to high roof and awkward corner. Belay at hanging stance.****P6 (60’, 5.12c, 8x Bolts): Work rightwards through slabby crux and then up to stance. A second difficult slab crux guards passage to a good belay ledge. *P7 (90’, 5.10a, ?x Bolts): Climb gray wall towards two large trees. Work up ledges and left to a belay. **P8 (120’, 5.10d, ?x Bolts): Climb a long, grey streak with chert and flowstone holds to stance belay at top of wall.Descent: Rap the route EXCEPT for P3. Instead, rap down the wall left of the P3 corner to the anchor directly above P2 (the one you reach before moving the belay across the ledge).

I put his route up in summer of ’93 with Jason Astuto, Bart Dinsman, Mark Quinn, Mike Klinger, Gorge Smith et al. Sometime later Thomas Beck added eight more bolts and a belay on the first pitch.  

  Pitch 1, 5.9- Climb a flake with beautiful washboard holds until it ends at about 50’, continue up past a bulge to ledge with an anchor in hollow rock. Go up more washboard holds, passing a small roof on the left and aim for the shallow slot left of the dihedral. Belay on a nice ledge made of stacked blocks with a couple bolts in solid rock but wonky positions.   Pitch 2, 5.9- Step right for 10’ and go up steep rock between bulges. At the fourth bolt traverse hard right, staying below the whiter rotten rock, aiming for a short, thin, and dark crack about 80’ away where the cliff bends. Get gear in this crack, go around the corner and up easier rock to a small overhang. Belay above the overhang on a small stance on the left side go the huge cleft in the middle of the wall.   Pitch 3, 5.10c/d Climb steep rock straight up to thin ledge below the big roof. Follow the ledge right to where the roof is smaller and not as steep. Use a long runners on the bolts across the ledge or you’ll have big time rope drag. Belay on a nice small ledge above the roof.   Pitch 4, 5.8 Climb left and up easy terrain to a dihedral that ends at a big ledge. Continue on the face to the right and up to the huge ledge with the pine trees that runs across the top of the cliff. 

  Descent: Rappel, with two ropes, the last two pitches, then from the top of pitch two, a short rappel straight down to an anchor at the bottom of the large cleft in the middle of the wall. A long rap drops you on a wide section of the long ledge that runs across the bottom of the wall then one more rap to the ground from here.

6 bolts lead to a 2 bolt anchor.   The first bolt is quite high.  

Last 20 feet are solid for the grade, thoughtful jug haul.

Good 5.8 face leads to one tricky move just before the anchors.

Easy climbing to the high first and second bolts, followed by more engaging moves above, characterized by tucking left at each overhanging section. It's slightly easier than the 5.6 to the left....making it a solid 5.7.

Route positioned to the left of Captain Crambowl. It offers a continuous flow for a great climbing on the grade. With a little bit of spicy tech moves on a slightly kicked out section between 3rd and 5th bolt. 9 bolts will take you to the chains.

Last 20 feet are solid at the grade but with plenty of hands/feet.  Easier than the route immediate to its left.

The left side of the aptly named Universal Wall is a wide expanse of mostly beautifully solid rock overlaid with piles of choss and hollow flakes. There’s lots of good climbing along the base and a handful of multi-pitch lines. The rockfall potential is very serious here and anyone climbing up high will for sure be knocking rocks down, no matter how careful they are. Don’t climb under parties up on the wall! My friends and I dubbed this the Crumbowl Wall because of the constant rain of rocks whenever we were climbing here.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Universal Wall - Left