Expect only the finest rock, and as mentioned, the climbing is trying to climb a vertical mud pile.

Pitch 1:

start on the SSW side of the summit tower and look for a well-featured climb up volcanic tuff. Climb 90 feet into an alcove, 5.3.

Pitch 2

: continue straight up from the alcove in a chossy crack system; then veer right to a series of mantels. The upper mantel is the crux and is protected by a fixed pin (more of a mental placement). Continue up the ridge on hollow spires to more solid rock, 5.6 PG-13.

Pitch 3:

from the top of the 5.6 pitch, start down a class 3 ramp to a notch. Climb out of the notch, class 4, to the middle summit. The eastern summit is reached by crossing an exposed gap and then a short scramble to the summit, 180 feet, 5.0.

For the descent, use a slung boulder and solution pocket to rappel 80 feet off of the north side of the tower from the top of the second pitch.

South-Southwest Ridge

Southeast Face

Climb up a series of wide cracks, well protected with large cams, on the southeast side of the tower to a deep notch.  Then climb up the gap to the eastern summit.  There is little pro on the second pitch (R rated), but the rock quality is reported to be much "better."

Description

Protection

Routes in Twin Peaks