Begin by finding good hand and foot placement in the small cave beneath the vertical face. The first move is a large left hand dyno to a sideways jug. Intermediary holds can be used by left hand to make the climb easier. There is a good right foot knob which is prime for a toe hook. The second big move is a right hand dyno to a sloper. From here, there is a nice edge to get right hand on. Then it's a straight-forward top out.

Per local etiquette, shoeless climbing is preferred!

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Run and jump

Welcome to Panther Beach

Exit Cave Left

White Wall Ball and Tit Crawl

About 50 yards South of the arch entrance to the Beachside Wall, around the corner from the largest cave, there is a spot where the rock becomes clean and white up considerably higher than any other face on the rock.  This climb will usually be out of the surf, except in extreme cases, when you probably shouldn't be climbing in the area anyways!

At the base, you will find a large foothold about a foot off the ground, and there will also be a large pocket to serve as a starting hand.  Climb the white sparsely pocketed face up to the sandstone horn 25-30 feet off the ground.  Ther are several grips at the top that are only sandstone, as the white wall nearly disappears at the top of the route. Climbing is balancy the entire way, without letting up for most of the route.  There are very few good holds on the way up, though there are some good rests if you look. The climb becomes scarily balancy at the top.

You're done when you can grasp the horn, but DON'T dino to it, I personally wouldn't even hang from it.  This is sandstone, and I really don't think that it could withstand too many people jumping to it.  There are several ways to get up to the horn without jumping.

Finally, once you've gotten to the horn, descend off the sandstone to the left.

This gets an vs rating despite the fact that the whole climb is over sand.  Without a perfect landing from a fall in the last commiting section in the route (feet about 15-18 feet off the ground), you WILL hurt yourself.  If you fall really wrong, you are going to need some hosptalization.

Run and jump off of the wall to a jug move up and traverse right until you can stand on a ledge.

Comp style start to a traverse to a hang and drop matched on a crimp or drop off when you feel like it. Holds are always chalked whenever I've been there.

In the middle of the Beachside Wall there is a cave extending ~10 feet into the rock.  At the left side of entrance there are a few good hands within reach above the overhang of the cave.  Start on these hands, pull to a pinch, then climb up and right and around the corner to an easy downclimb.

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Routes in Panther Beach