No Sweat is a short, rather nondescript crack climb that shares anchors with Sweat.  Starts about 15 feet to the left of Sweat in a vertical hand crack.  After about 15 feet of easy climbing, the crack widens, and then basically becomes a small ledge that continues up and right to the anchors at the ledge above Sweat.  Short and easy, often used to set up a top rope for the other Sweat climbs.

No Sweat

Good Morning America

Slippery When Sweat

Sweat

Baba Wawa

Late Night

Mercy Street

Pro Sweat

Nobody Likes Bryant Gumbel

More Sweat

The Today Show

Walter Funkite

Good TR route, pulling through the overlap is likely the hardest move but there are a few thin face moves once above the break too.

Climb sustained low-angle lie-back. Getting off the ground can be tricky when the rock is wet. Climb a left facing slab to first placement. Work left 10' to gain the main flake. Climb flake to headwall. Contrived thrashing through narrow opening at top of climb to gain ridge.

Sweat is a short, but stellar, crack climb located where the blue climbers trail hits the wall.  It is easy to spot as an arching crack that ends at a ledge with a small group of trees.  The climb starts out as a fist crack (#3 Camalot), narrows to hands (the best part of the route), and then ends as a finger crack below the anchors.  Just below the anchors are two cracks that you can use to get around a large hanging flake.  You can either use the anchors at the ledge (bolts with chain links), or continue to a second set (rap anchors) located up and slight right from the ledge.  To descend, rap with a single rope back to the base.  Easily one of the best 5.7s in the park.

At the time of this posting this route is largely unprotectable except by top rope. You may be able to find pro behind the flakes down low. However, it will quickly become useless as you move higher. Start on the low angle slab and follow it to a short series of flakes. Climb the flakes and continue up a system of nice edges until it blanks out near the top. Finish by smearing your way up the low angle nearly featureless slab. Crux is at the top.

This route is largely unprotectable, except by top rope. Climb the unprotected low angle slab left of the Walter Funkite overlap and below the steep arching feature. Mount the overlap to its left. Once on the overlap traverse a few steps to the climbers right and proceed up the flake and nice foot holds. Finish on reasonably well featured low angle slab. Move left to top out into the alcove.

Face Right of Pro Sweat is the right-most route on News Wall.  Very similar to Pro Sweat, but more difficult and slightly run out between bolts.  Climb to the same overlap on Pro Sweat, this time without the benefit of a bolt below it.  You could probably protect the overlap with a small cam (TCU), but the placement wouldn't be great.  The crux is pinching small crystals and stepping above the overlap.  The climbing remains steep to the first bolt and the eases up a little to the top.  Climb past one more bolt en route to the anchors.

Pro Sweat is a fun route that follows a line of bolts up the wall to the right of Sweat.  Climb past the first bolt to a small overlap.  Just above the overlap is a small ripple that heads up and right.  Using the holds along the ripple, step above the overlap and continue past three additional bolts to a set of anchor just right of the Sweat anchors.  A little thin at the bottom, the climbing eases somewhat once you get above the overlap.  Felt a little easier than 5.9.

This is the second-to-last route on the left side of News Wall. It starts left of a large tree and follows a black water streak to a chute up top. Along the way, there is an overlap to pull, and this is probably the crux. People sometimes drift left along the overlap and use some of the Baba Wawa holds. That's fine, but that's not the 5.9.

 Originally, this was done as a free solo by James Crump and Mike Head, and in Crump's Dome Driver's Manual, it is a 5.9- X. Just about everyone topropes it now, and it is listed as a TR in a newer guidebook, but I have listed it in keeping with the FA.

 If you wanted to lead this on gear, you could get a marginal/poor piece to protect pulling the overlap, and there is a horizontal flake below the top-out that would probably break if you fell on a cam or cammed Tricam. If you fell on either piece and it blew, you would deck, so considering that and the quality of the rock, this really is an X lead.

 In the chute at the top are two Metolius rap bolts known as the News Wall anchors. Please leave these open for parties rappelling, especially on weekends and on other busy days. There is a large boulder behind the anchors, and you can hang a TR masterpoint over it. Doing so will also result in much less rope drag than using the anchors will.

 Note: in DDM, this route and Baba Wawa are part of the Prok Wall, which is part of the Shield. However, the newer O'Grady guide has them on News Wall. Since the person who submitted the BW page put it with News Wall and since most people call the anchors above BG the News Wall anchors, I have included BG under News Wall as well.

Climb the face to the left of the Sweat crack. It's extremely thin climbing and feels a grade or two harder than Pro Sweat to me.  

  Getting above the overlap is probably the technical crux but there are some very very thin moves further up on the route too.

Start up Walter Funkite, pull the break, and head straight for the top.

 Originally, this was done as a free solo by James Crump. Just about everyone topropes it now, and it is listed as a TR in a newer guidebook, but I have listed it in keeping with the FA.

 If you want to lead this on gear, you can protect the move pulling the break (a #6 works), but there is no pro after that, so any fall 20' or so or more above that piece means cratering.

This is a big crack, even though it does not look it from the ground.  Hardes part is the move over the overhang.  Super easy.

News Wall is located on the right side of the Backside of the Main Dome.  Using the Echo Canyon trail, it's the first of the four Backside walls that you'll encounter.  News Wall is also the smallest of the four with most of the routes under half a rope length.  All but two of the climbs require gear, and most have anchors at the top.  "Sweat" is one of the best climbs at the grade (5.7) in the park.

Description

Protection

Routes in News Wall