Pitch one: 5.7, 35M. 5.7 crux right off the ground can be avoided by climbing a ramp on the left. Route can be TRed, Lowered off or Rapped from the first anchors with a 70M.

Pitch two: 5.7, 65M  Route joins a dike and drifts right into the bolt line of The Great Plains. Continue up the bolt line to the anchors of the second pitch of The Great Plains.

Pitch 3: 5.5, 60M. Shared with The Great Plains

High Plains Drifter

Trackless Wilderness

Light, Cam, Action

Into the Sun

Juniperus Occidentalis

The Great Plains

The Pass

Independence, MO

Three Springs

Winches and Windlasses

Taking it for Granite

Climb it like you stole it

Follow the River

Five Finger Discount

Trad Rack, Meshach and Abednego

The route name is a concession to an insatiable love of bad puns on the part of one of the FA's.

Route follows series of flakes and corners which offer ample opportunities to protect before heading straight up easy fifth class terrain to the top of the wall.

Pitch 1. 5.6, 35 M. Follow a series of flakes into a right facing corner. A two bolt anchor is at the top of this corner. 5.6 35 M

Pitch 2. 5.6, 65 M. Climb above anchor heading straight towards the top finding protection where available. Set up a gear anchor under a low angle roof/ block. 65 M

Pitch 3. Easy 5th class, 50 M. Head towards a large boulder at the top of the wall. Belay from the hip or anchor under flakes. Beware of loose blocks. Avoid anchoring on the trees. Easy 5th class 50 M

Emigrant Wall Slab test piece. If you can smear your way thru this line you are ready to go get really scared on 5.6s in Tuolumne.

Pitch 1. Climb a few moves on unprotected slab to gain a ramp you could have just walked up. Follow the shiny things in the rock up to the anchor. 35M, 5.7.

Pitch 2. Steep, blank and featureless. At least for Emigrant wall. Good thing there are lots of bolts. 5.9 35M

Pitch 3. Fun roof moves that open up the familiar slab trudge up to the anchor. Carefully walk off avoiding sending missiles down on other parties or traverse over to the Rap equiped anchors of "Climb it like you Stole it". Shares the last few bolts of "Five Finger Discount". 5.8, 65 M.

More well bolted fun on good granite slab.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=fZV5uQ9ZdOg&t=88s

Pitch 1: Do some gratuitous slick slab climbing right off the ground or scramble an easy ramp to gain a ledge mid route. Contemplative moves off the ledge continue to the first pitch anchors. 5.7, 35M

Pitch 2. Make sure you brought your

70M

for this section. Characterized by thoughtful slab moves broken up by shallow roofs this route gets progressively easier, eventually joining the last pitch of "Climb It Like You Stole It". 5.7, 70M

From the top either walk off up the hill to the left or rap down "Climb It Like You Stole It".

Pitch 1: 5.8, 35M Easy climbing on shallow ledges leads to fairly sustained slab climbing. Ends at a comfortable belay ledge. . It is possible to top rope, lower or rappel from this anchor with a 70 M

Pitch 2. 5.8 65M consistent slab climbing takes you to a large ledge.

Pitch 3. 5.5 50M Follow the middle bolted line leaving the ledge. Watch for

loose rocks

as this pitch eases into 4th Class terrain.

75 ft of 4th class slab hiking deposits you at the top of the dome.

Pitch 1: 5.6, 35 M. Featured Slab climbing leads to a comfortable belay to the right of a Juniper bush. It is possible to TR, Lower or Rap from this anchor with a 70M

Pitch 2: 5.9, 60M. Shallow Dihedrals, friction slab and a series of mantels, this is one of the most varied pitches at Emigrant Wall.

Pitch 3: 5.7 3 bolts lead you left into the final pitch shared by Into the Sun.

Watch for loose rocks

.

From the final anchor 75ft of easy slab get you to the top of the dome.

Route heads straight up the slab. 3 pitches. Walk off or walk to the anchors of the pass and rappel.

Pitch one: Gain a ledge just off the ground to clip the first bolt. Easy Slab to the anchors. 40M.

Pitch two: Easy slab with a small roof midway to the anchors. 65 M

Pitch three: Bolted easy fifth class to the anchors. 70 M

The mechanical bolts at belay stations are left over from the development process. Might be handy if sharing the belay. While not nearly as strong as the glue ins (25kn vs 35Kn) it should still hold you.

Follow bolts up a "valley" between two "mountains" towards the top of the wall. 4 pitches, anchors/rap stations set up to rappel with a 70M rope. Bolts are generally 15-20 feet or so apart, but climbing is generally easy on textured granite.

Pitch 1: Begin off to the right of a large ledge. First bolt is low to to prevent a long fall to the ground to the right of the ledge. Travel upwards toward the low spot between two roofs, bolted anchor is just below these features. 5.6, 6 bolts, 35M

Pitch 2: Head up through the "pass" between the two small roofs and continue toward the anchor. 5.6, 5 bolts, 35 M

Pitch 3: Follow bolts over easy slab towards the anchors. 5.4, 4 bolts, 35M

Pitch 4: Easy fifth class climbing past bolts towards anchors at the top of the wall. 5.easy, 4 bolts, 35 M

Either Rappel with at least a single 70M rope or walk off up and right. Beware of Loose rock.

Begins on a dike that trends up and right to the first pitch anchors, which can be used to TR, rap or lower off.  Route heads more or less straight up from there. Entire route can be rapped with a 70M rope.

T

he pitches are full 35M, so make sure to rap from the middle mark on your rope and tie knots in the ends.

P1: 5.5, 35M

P2: 5.5, 35M

P3: low 5th, 35M

P4: 4th class, 35M

Route name is a reference to one of the main starting points of the Oregon Trail, a branch of which passed nearby.

Three Springs, with reference to nearby Log Spring, Leek Spring, and Tragedy Spring.

3 pitches of somewhat slippery slab climbing. Walk off or use the anchors on The Pass to rappel down. It is possible to top rope the first pitch with a 70M rope.

Pitch one:  Follow the bolt line thru thin slab over small roof for some spice to anchors at nice ledge. 5.8, 35 M

Pitch Two: Follow the bolt line thru thin slab to anchors on a large ledge. 5.8 60 M

Pitch three: Continue up into an easy dihedral. Climbing gets progressively easier until the anchors which are shared with the 4th pitch of the pass. Full 70M is just long enough for the leader to reach the anchors.

Some slab hiking after the final anchors puts you on top of the dome. Watch out for loose rock.

Pitch 1. Easy climbing thru the mostly clean center of a patch of bushes to a comfortable belay anchor. 5.6, 35M

Pitch 2. Mellow climbing leads quickly to the second anchor on a nice ledge. It is easy to link the first two pitches. 5.6, 20M

Pitch 3. The fun stuff. Crux is a well protected undercling move opening up the face above. Stick the slippery slab moves and cruise up to the anchor. 5.9, 30 M

Pitches 4 and 5. Climbing eases off and you go all the way to the top of the wall. 5.7>, 35M each.

Beware of loose rock

This Route is equipped with rap anchors set up for 5 raps with a

70M

rope.

Name is a references to the various tools and methods the 49ers coming over the nearby Carson Mormon Trail used to pull their wagons up the extremely steep and rugged mountain passes on their way into California. Apparently you can still see the 170 year old chain and rope scars left on large trees used as anchors near the current Carson Pass.

Three pitches of varied climbing with mixed protection.

Pitch 1: Start on the slab directly underneath a left facing, diagonal corner. Three bolts protect the lower slab then pull directly over the corner on hidden holds, climbing straight up and right under the roof into a fun right facing corner with a small crack.

Pitch 2: Follow a ramp up with optional pro to the bolted face. Thoughtful and well protected climbing on slick slab (5.8) is rewarded with good holds and some pockets. Another optional piece before the anchor.

Pitch 3: Easy fifth protected with a few bolts.

This climb is equipped with rap stations for a

70M

rope.

Route can be climbed separately or used as an alternate start for the multi pitch routes "The Pass" or "Three Springs." Full route shares an anchor with the first pitch of "The Pass."

An anchor was added that allows the section of route before the dike to be top roped. This anchor shares a ledge the first pitch anchor for "Three Springs" and "Into the Sun". All three anchors are equipped with quick-links to allow rappelling.  If one was so inclined it is easy to set up three top ropes from this ledge with a 70m. A great opportunity to get an inexperienced climber some time on slab without committing to a multi pitch.

From the Ledge "Follow the River" heads left up six inch dike to the anchors for the first pitch of "The Pass".

IMO the climbing on the dike is some of the most enjoyable at Emigrant wall. I highly recommend this as an alternative start to the Pass.

If you do the full route and decide not to continue up "The Pass", descend by rappelling to the ledge at the start of "The Pass" with at least a 70M.

More fun, well protected climbing on great rock.

Pitch 1: 35 M. 5.7. Start on on a slick slab and continue thru easy ledges to some fun low angle side pulling.

Pitch 2. 35M. 5.7. More fun.

Pitch 3. 65M. 5.4. Easy slab hiking will lead you to the final anchors. Beware of loose rock as you walk off or traverse to the Rap station on "Climb it like your stole it". Shares last few bolts with "Trackless Wilderness".

Starts from the center of the wall climbing the longest section of the wall.

Pitch 1. From the base head for a thin break in the bushes past a low angle flaring crack. Head up and right towards a large right facing corner. Anchor in the horizontal crack below and left of the corner. 5.5 60M

Pitch 2. Leave the anchors and head right into the easy to lie back crack in the corner. As crack peters out head right onto face towards protection in a small roof. Continue straight up. Anchor behind a large attached block. 5.7 55 M.

Pitch 3. head up easy 5th class towards a Western Juniper tree. Do not Anchor on tree. Walk off up and left.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Emigrant Wall