This climbs the slabby face to the right of Shotgun crack. All I remember is clipping a few bolts on the face and then using some gear to protect the roof and cracks above. I pulled the roof a bit to the right of where Shotgun probably does. I also remember hitting chain anchors at the top (maybe shares the anchors of Shotgun??). It felt like a mid 10 at the time...

Lawyers, Guns, and Money

In The Pink

unknown (right most crack in the roof)

Shotgun (Variation)

Unknown (TR)

I Love My Wife But She Doesn't Climb

Utah Crack

Unnamed Dihedral

Apex Right

Shotgun

Airtime

Unnamed

Apex

Right of the Roof

The route follows a splitter crack into the highest corner of the roof. At the corner step out of the roof and ascend to the anchors.

On this route you pull over the far left end of the roof. You will need to take some protection for the lower section. After pulling over the roof there are two bolts to the end of the route. This route can be top roped after being led.

The crux is pulling the roof, everything else is very easy.

This is essentially Shotgun but with the variation of pulling the roof further down instead of continuing up into the apex of the roof before pulling out. Although similar to Shotgun, we thought it was fun enough to include it as a separate route.

Just after you exit the splitter 'lighting bolt' crack you will see two cracks in the roof that angle up and to climber's left. Hold your breath and work these two overhanging cracks until you get on the upper face. Easy ascent from there. Committing and FUN!

This climb is a broken dirty crack on the upper left end of the lower Utah Wall. A really fun climb that will get better with use. A belay must be built on top.

This is an obvious two pitch crack at the center of the wall. The first pitch is about 100 feet long and allot of fun. It ends at a bolted belay. Pitch two goes to the top of the cliff and a belay must be built. Walk off to the south.

This route is the dihedral to the left of Utah Crack. This is a fun route.

Crux is pulling the roof with the sloping crack.  The roof moves are fun, and everything else is forgettably easy.

Really surprised that this one hasn't been added, as it is easily the best route on the Utah Wall.  Jeff Lowe originally led this for the FA when he was only 14 and rated it 5.8!

This route is located on the North Ridge of Utah Wall.  Approach by walking, following the spacious ledge, up and right (north) at the base of "Shotgun" and "Lawyers, Guns, and Money."  Belay at a stance just before the arete.  Lead up the arete through broken up ground towards the striking rightward leaning crack up high. A couple small nut or tcu-sized pieces can be put in for protection about 20 feet up by an old pin.  About 15 feet higher, the rock gets steeper with a good crack for pro and another old pin.  There is a fixed nut befo the business.   You won't have a piece above you for this move, unless you want to use up your handhold, so you're going to have to commit.

Once in the alcove, place a couple of hand-sized pieces in the corner and enjoy the few moves to climb out of the dihedral.  Here, there are two options: continue up and left(various sizes under 2") or follow up the crack on the right side of the ridge (book calls this the "Hadley Variation").  I haven't done the Hadley variation, so I can't really comment on it, but it looks like you'll want some big hands pieces (3-4").  Both variations end near the "window" atop the second pitch of shotgun. There is a slung horn to rap off of.

Descent: Make one rap with two ropes to the ground, from this window, or two raps with one rope down Shotgun.

Gear: 1 and a 1/2 sets .5" to 2" (or 4" if doing the Hadley variation?). Long draws and Runners are particularly useful on this climb!

The thin crack to the right of I Love My Wife But She Doesn't Climb. At the end of the crack face climb to the small roof. Either go left around the roof (easy) or pull straight over it (5.9). Finnish in the dihedral or on the face to the right of the arete. A belay must be built on top.

This is the easy obvious crack just to the right of where the roof starts (it basically defines the edge of the roof).  The crux is basically right where it passes the roof, but as can be seen from the rating is very easy.

The crack starts out kind of thin (like .75 camalot) and grows until I'm sure you could find a spot for a 6 if you wanted to.

This route ascends the obvious crack to the right of the roof and ends at the anchors under the arch.  Make two single rope raps down using shotgun's anchors.

Description

Protection

Routes in Utah Wall