This is as good as Southern sandstone sport climbing gets.  A steep, eye-catching line with perfect rock, and engaging moves that don't let up until you clip the chains.  A great test of power-endurance.

 Scramble up the pillar then follow good holds to a short crimp section before a good rest below the first crux.  Cast into a fingery V6 boulder problem involving sequential slopey edges and a long move to a decent one-pad edge.  Grab another marginal rest in the horizontal break below the next roof.  Don't celebrate yet.  Another V6ish boulder problem with long moves between small edges take you over the roof to the anchors.

 Savor this one.  It's one of the best in LRC if not the entire South.

Unshackled

Dogtown

Area of Doubt

Too Short

Iron Mike

Shepatitis

Hot Takka

Movie Star

Not My Problem

Ron's route

Casper

Unshackled Direct

Big Cat

Area Unshackled

Zemphyr

Exploding Boy

Unshackled the Movie

Lone Wolf aka Redneck Girls in Love

Back in the Day

Climb Movie Star and move left at rail. Finish on Unshackled. Classic.

Fun route that weaves back and forth across a blunt/blocky arete. It climbs much better than it looks. 

True, this route is manufactured, but it is damn fun.  Mostly natural holds with a few enhanced or straight-up drilled pockets to fill in the gaps.  May have gone natural, but we will never know.

 From the top of the pillar, establish on the wall and make some big moves on sidepulls and pockets to the first rest on a large horn.  Make a long move to a good hold, then move slightly right and start an extended crux section with a mix of nice edges, underclings, and drilled pockets.  A few moves are a bit reachy, but not stopper for shorter folks.  At the end of the crux is a slight rest, and then a very thin crimp redpoint crux right at the end.  Save a little energy to clip the chains because there isn't a great clipping hold.

 Wish this thing went to the top of the wall like Unshackled...

Short. Easy few overhung moves to distinctive crux on smaller holds pulling out.

Fun jugging up steep terrain to a distinct crux right when you're pumped. 

Climb up some crap to the big ledge and first bolt. Make move on small holds and continue up blocky jugs on varying overhang to thinner finish at anchor.  I personally enjoyed this more than Dogtown.

Good rock quality. Climb a variety of positive holds to a crimp crux guarding the chains. 

Classic route! Climb up on jugs, edges, and underclings to a series of rails at the second bolt. Pull up to a block, clip the third bolt, and start the real business. A big move leads to a jug to clip the fourth bolt. Crank onto the headwall, and tackle the last challenging moves to gain a stance and clip the anchor. Phenomenal climbing. 

Tough boulder up roof terrain. Easy run-out climbing to anchor. Good boulder but too short for a good rating.

Climb up easy terrain to ledge, clip bolt, head up and right on steep wall with good holds. Find rests and fight pump to the anchor. Good route.

Start with a reach to a crimp then steep jugs to abrupt v6ish crux past last bolt. Pretty good, should get more traffic. 12d/13a

Do Unshackled, but before going out right towards chain draw and knee bar rest, go straight up using undercling and slopers. Adds a little boulder and removes knee bar rest. Also makes the route more linear and logical. Bit harder than Unshackled.

Climb next to arete through various cruxy moves to stance. Stretch the hips and hamstrings to gain flake, jugs to anchors. Ignore cold shuts.

Climb Area of Doubt and clip the anchors with a sling. Shake at the jug and then traverse right to finish on Unshackled. Doesn't add much difficulty, if any, but it adds some excellent climbing and allows you to top the cliff. 

5.12 intro climbing to crux near the top. Finishes on anchors on Movie Star

This is a good warmup for the harder routes at Unshackled. Moderate climbing to a roof where an awkward mantle gets you over the lip to the chains. 

Short and fun. Scramble up the mellow face to a big ledge and clip your first bolt. Head up and clip the second bolt right around the short crux, then meander right and left to the anchors. Be kind, leave the lower biners

Easy/wet corner to start (or some have done a direct boulder problem start), and then easy climbing to the 3rd bolt. From here, the next 2 bolts are relentless thin, yet powerful crimping clocking in at perhaps hard v9? The 5th bolt is best skipped on point. A quick shake at the 6th bolt and then a few moves of 11+ take you to the anchors. Incredible route that deserves more hype. Zero pump climbing, just a very hard boulder problem. 

The home of the classic 'Unshackled' (13b), 'Movie Star' (5.12b) and several other great routes varying in grade and quality. The wall gets sun until afternoon, shade times depend on the part of the wall and season of the year.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Unshackled