This is the route on the far right of the Millcreek Monster massif. Proceed past six bolts up three slab sections divided by two roofs. A rewarding and surprisingly interesting array of moves leads to a notch with rap rings. The crux is in surmounting the 2nd roof.  The rock provides ample holds every time it’s needed which suggests 5.7 but the crux move requires a degree of commitment meriting 5.8.

To reduce rope drag use slings rather than QDs below both roofs.

The rap anchors can be used to rap the route or go down the back side. Short 4th class scramble up back accesses the anchors.  If considering top roping, extend the anchor to avoid rope wear through notch.

The name came from conversation as first ascentionists scoped the potential line and climbed initially on trad. “Quite” was inserted into the name to remind that this is Millcreek multifractured rock. Most obvious hazards were removed by crowbar and by accident but loose holds and those that are fine when loaded one direction but not another are still a real possibility given the fractured rock.  A certain-death-for-those-

below-sized rock came off the top one time during route development.  It almost reached the road (bye-bye poor little cyclist or car door).  Be careful.  Check all holds until it sees a lot of traffic.  Helmets are a must and belay / wait to the side.

Not Quite As Loose As It Looks

Henry's Corner

A Little Adventurous

A fun adventure offering blocky corner or arete moves for about 60' to rap anchors that can take you down the route or off the backside.  Also designed to be a trainer for beginning multi-pitch teams with a belay station after the first very short pitch.

Pitch 1 is about 20 ft past 2 bolts (center then right side) with top-out onto a shelf.  Be very careful and head to the right when topping out as the rocks to the left of the exit gap are just stacked and not solid by any stretch of the imagination.  One bolt above head height on right and creative trad anchoring provide a chance to practice belaying the second and gear management.  Or, push on to the corner where 2 bolts can serve as the anchor for brining up the second.  One can walk off to the left from this point, or start the 2nd pitch corner itself.

Pitch 2: 5 bolts to a rap anchor that pulls clean to the front or back side.  Some committing 5.7ish moves allow entrance to the corner, then either harder moves keeping left in the corner or easier arete moves on the right get you to the top.  Both offer interesting moves, some committing so evaluate holds before committing full weight.  At the crux, one can find easier climbing on the arete on the right.  However, the arete is highly cracked rock so evaluate holds and force directions especially after winter melt/freeze cycles.

Wear a helmet and pay attention to what’s happening above.

P1:Surmount a low roof then float up the slab as it steepens and sweeps left. the rock type goes from quartzite-esque to sweet limestone like that found at Hellgate or Jug Haul Wall as you climb onto the bulge. 11 bolts

P2: Clipping on this pitch can require extra moves to find the best stance or jug. Start off with some delicate slab work over some bulges up to the obvious roof. Clip a bolt and pull yourself up and left over a void into an airy dihedral. Move up and right to the anchor.

7 bolts.

Plenty of bolts. PG13 just to keep everyone heads up especially on the second pitch.

Approach:

Park next to an opening in the trees with a low flat granite boulder directly below the formation. Find a boulder at the base of the hill and follow path behind it up through trees. Follow base of talus field up and right. Switchback once to the base. If you are bushwhacking or talus rolling, you’re in the wrong spot. Approach time 5 minutes.

Descent options:

One double rope rappel

Two single rope rappels

Belay up to top of formation and walk off.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Millcreek Monster