Stellar crack climb set in a clean flaring corner that looks like an off-width and may require some off-widthy or squeeze-chimney like moves, but it's mostly steep hands and a couple fists deep in the crack where it narrows. Once the crack ends, ascend the blocks, careful of the loose ones. Anchor bolts/rings on wall to right once you arrive at the massive ledge--rappel/lower or continue on to summit by climbing the upper pitches of Regular Route.

Only the Good

A Few Good Men

Kitty From Hell

Duet

The Beckey Route

Wall of Early Morning Fright

Mostly a finger crack. Climbs well, feels secure, protects well with small, med cams and nuts. Two bolt anchor at the top, 90’ up with rap rings.

Bolts on a face with discontinuous cracks, to a roof bulge and some gear in a crack.

If you happen to be looking for an excellent, exposed and interesting crack climb at chimney rocks, look no further!  Everything from fingers to OW with a funny cliffhanger finish, but beware, it's hard for 10d.

P1:  Head up to the crack in the block, then climb from fingers to hands to off-width until you reach a ledge with a single bolt that can be backed up with small nuts (10c).

P2:  Climb above the bolt and traverse left around the corner until you're at a finger crack.  This part is super exposed, don't look down!  Follow the finger crack up and eventually exit right into an alcove with large crystals (10d+).

P3:  Climb up out of the crystal chimney into an OW.  The OW turns into a great hand crack for a while and eventually you head right around the corner until you reach a decent belay ledge (10b)

P4:  Follow the obvious crack system up and right to a corner where you follow the corner up, over a chockstone (use cliffhanger hang for bonus poins), and belay once you can see over the other side (5.9).

Start from the large dihedral on the SW face.  First pitch climbs a crack into the dihedral, up the corner and onto a ledge with slung blocks (5.8++).  Tunnel behind the big pillar (move the belay) and pitch two ascends a chimney onto a knobby face to a bolted anchor (5.6).  The last pitch is only a few feet to reach the summit.

Descend by rapping from the top of the second pitch directly to the ledge at the top of the first pitch.  Another rap off of the big mess of slings will reach the ground.  60m rope works.

The old guidebook says, "Sustained, awkward and exposed.  An excellent route."  I have to agree with all three.

P1: Climb the crack until you reach a two bolt belay on a small alcove before a short chimney/squeeze (5.9).

P2: Climb the squeeze, then head up and left until you're on a large ledge with an alcove (optional belay).  Chimney out of the alcove and follow the path of least resistance to the large boulder on top that's wrapped in old ropes.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Chimney Spire