P1:  from ledge beneath outcrop gain ramp and continue up, laughing as you go.  Around 30-35m up you'll encounter small headwall steps, very easily negotiated by staying left.  Final short, lower angle ramp leads to summit block and directly to established rappel anchor in alcove beneath large boulder atop summit.  Quick & fun, so run a couple laps.

Note we cleaned one line, and veering off climber's right could encounter substantial and sizable loose rock.  Please Be Careful.

West Ramp of Wizard's Hat

J&J Route

P1:  ascend to NE face, to just beneath prominent NE facing toe buttress with prominent rock band of black rock.  Set belay below this to protect from rockfall, lead off around left side, sticking to small, low angle faces rather than ducking into loose rock filled corner to right.  Continue up several of these faces til reaching a vertical, short, left-facing corner after ~45m climbing; climb this to large bouldery ledge beneath 20' headwall and set belay.  5.4, 50-55m.

P2:  facing 20' slightly overhung face choose between Jen's Chimney/Corner left [ stemmable corner system with nice hand crack, but right leaning angle makes for couple awkward moves ], or Jeff's Crack, beautiful finger to hands crack on the right.  After gaining large ledge above, angle right to gain ramps leading to northern summit.  If rope drag substantial choose to belay from top of 40-50' ramp, but push to sub-summit if possible.  From top of large ramp climb corner then ramp leading to summit.  On reaching false summit can round large block to right or bounce over, reaching very comfortable square, flat-topped boulder which makes fantastic belay.  5.7+, 40-45m to summit.

Warning:  this route does have substantial amount of loose rock -- be very careful climbing, carefully set rope via protection and provide safe belays to reduce rockfall risk.

Descent:  find rappel anchor [ of double wrap webbing backed by nut, with locker ] in alcove beneath largest summit boulder.  Rappel down west facing ramp; preferably do not rappel down loose rock filled corner ~40m, but instead continue down ramps til ~50m, finding a loose rocky ledge beneath a rock outcrop which provides great protection from rockfall.  From here, easy & short scramble back down to bouldery but flat ridge-top you approached from.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Wizard's Hat