Ascend the NNE ridge to the small sub-summit (13,013') that sits to the northeast of Wilson Peak. The sub-summit is connected to Wilson Peak's East ridge via a long, swooping, 3rd class ridgeline. The top of the north face of the sub-summit is a steep and loose headwall. This is the easiest line up the north face of the sub-summit(13,013'); it follows the extreme left side of this small face.

The NNE ridge is most easily gained by skirting initial difficulties to their right up red scree. At the top of the red scree, trend back left through a weakness in the headwall to gain the ridge proper. A short stretch of vertical, loose 5.5 rock gains the ridge.

From this point, follow the knife-edged ridge with maximum exposure to the sub-summit. The section from red scree to sub-summit (13,013') presents the technical and psychological cruxes of the route. The rock is very loose and does not present the opportunity to place gear. Do not loosen rocks onto your partner. The ridge traverse to the sub-summit is very narrow with high consequences, though technically very low fifth-class and fourth-class terrain. Solo or simul-solo with great vigilance and care.

From the sub-summit, stroll across the swooping ridge to gain Wilson Peak's East ridge.

A large notch halts progress at the base of the main summit pyramid. Downclimb left (south) into the notch, cross through right (north) to the north face and up a rock couloir (which may contain ice depending on conditions) to regain the East ridge proper. Many gullies break the East ridge, choose the easiest line of ascent to the summit of Wilson Peak.

NNE Ridge

NW Ridge

'*This is NOT the standard ascent route.*

The NW Ridge on Wilson Peak was frequented by skiers eyeing lines on the NW or NE Face prior to the notorious access restraints imposed by the Silver Pick Mine area landowner. The ridge is direct, exposed, and loose with sustained scrambling. It makes for a fine winter route, though the approach involves either trespassing or avalanche terrain.`

The ridge is about a mile long starting from 12,200 in Silver Pick Basin. The first half consists of mostly Class 2 with the occasional Class 3/4 headwall or notch with fairly obvious route-finding. The first half is commonly bypassed by hiking the NW basin and ascending talus or snow to the ridge just left of a notch on the N Ridge.

The second half of the ridge, beginning at a point around 13,200, is exposed on both sides and extreme care should be taken while considering holds. Expect sustained, knifey scrambling mostly proper and interrupted by one notch (do not descend this without rope) up until the final few hundred feet. The final bit was a snow ridge for us but might be Class 2-3 loose when dry.

Descend the ridge (all seasons), the NE or NW slopes (spring), or the standard route W Ridge to RoA (spring/summer/fall).

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Wilson Peak