Fun route, crux being either the leg stretch to the right or getting there with no foot holds, smearing the wall. Find the hole at “What is Sunshine?”, then move right along a crack and top out on “Bad Habits”.  

Buns Out

Slicksides

Shlocksides

Lunge or Plunge

Little Sizzler

Digitalis

Poosker's Smooch

Genetic Control

Court Jester

Slicksides Direct

The Wheel

Sizzlefoot

The Real Thing

This beautiful problem sits in the center of the potholes area, the first area encountered when approaching the MN side of Taylor's Falls.    On a busy day, hundreds walk through the gravelly spot below the wall, but the rare moment exists when climbing this route is a solitary experience, and the overhanging arbor and bubbling stream are electric.     Since it was first climbed, it has been top-roped countless times, led once (Mike Dahlberg - early 90's(?) - before the awesome thin cams of today), and bouldered (Andy Raether ~2001 - a bold ascent, given the landing [update: Word on the street (Adam Therneau) says that Nic and Chris H have also bouldered it - anyone else?]).  With appropriate equipment, sound judgment, and motivation, this route is accessible to many more climbers in any of the three styles.    Although short, it contains some of the most enjoyable movement of any route in the state.  The rock is solid, the holds are finger friendly (for a 12), and the spacing and position of the holds are not so outrageous that they disallow the emergence of character.     It's one of the easiest set-ups around too, with a five minute walk to the short cliff, a two minute walk to the top, and a five minute set-up.        Marvel at the fantastic movement, the killer hard, well-textured rock, the distinctly different character of the start and finish, and delight in the satisfying top-out. 

Start to the right on good holds and move left into the obvious crack.  Great jams and slick feet bring you into the crux up higher.  A couple dicey moves up and left bring you to the topout.  Many people climb this route as a boulder problem.  In that fashion it's a great highball but can easily be TR'd or led on gear.  A classic for the whole state.  Because of the high crux and a non-movable rock in the middle of the landing (when bouldering) many ankles have met their demise on this route.  Vertical crack in the middle of the large pot hole.

Start out on angular, large, blocky holds and get established into underclings/sidepulls up higher.  At the top, there's a full on feet cutting dyno to a thank god jug.  Top out after the jug is reached.  A great route with a somewhat sketchy landing.  Bring a couple pads and good spotters for this one.  Can also be TR'd or led on gear...  When looking at "Slicksides" this is the route/problem is just left of a diagonal crack.

Avoid the rocks on your left and the edge on your right near the top.  Crux is near middle where you try to figure out where to put your feet. Finish up the middle of the face.   

  A great option on a busy day since it's not well known and toursists stay out of your hair. A fun route to figure out. 

  According to Mike Farris this route has probably been climbed over the years but no one bothered naming it, however it's worth mentioning here to let other climbers know about it.

Thin crimps on bullet hard rock, with powerful moves between them. The crux is at around fifteen feet with hard underlings.

 This was first freed on top-rope by Lynn Hill (in the 90s, I believe). I tried to lead it in '06, but the gear is terrible, and it just didn't make much sense.

 In a show of great lateral thinking, Chris Hirsch bouldered this line over a snowdrift in around 06/07 or so. Smart! Most people will probably just TR it, and that makes a lot of sense, but boulder ascents over snow are proud. 

Sit start on the anvil looking rock, far bottom left. Move horizontal to some good crimp holds. Up to the right on a higher hold with the right foot in a tiny pocket in the bottom right. Reach with the left and top out.

 Name: Best friend topped it first and claimed to be it's Queen. Other friend topped next and said he was King. They told me to come up next because"...every court needs a jester". And thus the name.

Dyno directly to the 2 hand pocket rather than traversing to it

Potholes area is part of the park's main attraction. Hikers and explorers are treated to multitudes of potholes as part of the parks interpretive trail.  Climbers will find some of the the areas shortest and stiffest routes in this area.  Boulderers have been known to frequent this part of the park.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Pot Holes Area