A small left facing dihedral on the southwest corner of

Anteater.

Smurf Smasher

track marks

Velveeta

Scream Cheese

Swiss Cheese

Holding Out For a Hero

She Bop

This route deserves to see more traffic.  The climbing is interesting and the runouts are exciting , but reasonable.

Start the climb from the ground, and follow a thin crack with good gear to the huecoed wall.  The crux is surmounting the first bulge with good gear.  Place some creative gear in one of the huecos, and run it out to a good bolt. This section should be considered "R" rated without this piece of gear. Easier climbing leads to the bolt anchor on Scream Cheese.

Start with powerful layback moves with optional protection via big cam behind flake that can be walked. Work up past more gear and a couple small trees to a good stance, fire up to the crux and get ready to leave skin pulling the roof/flake. You can top out and join up with the anchors on swiss cheese but pro up high isn't great...maybe I'll add a bolt one day.

Good climbing similar to

Swiss Cheese

on cool pockets and edges. Some cool mantle-type moves and beautiful rock make for a worthwhile top rope climb.  slightly harder than

Swiss Cheese

to its left. Climbing is more enjoyable than

Swiss Cheese

.

This climb goes up the prow next to

Swiss Cheese

.  It has a fun mix of jugs, face, and slab climbing.  There is a nocticeable runout half way up the route,  but the holds are good.  Rap the route from chains on top.  Probably one of the best 5.9 sport climbs at the City.

Most people TR this line after climbing the harder

Scream Cheese

.  The first bolt is way up there.  A small nut can be placed before the first bolt.  After the second bolt,  you can place a medium hex to the left and a bunch of tiny nuts in a seam.  Pull the final moves around a bulge.

This route is located to the left of the cheese alcove.  The good climbing only lasts for about 40ft.  Climb a beautiful thin hand crack to a ledge.  Belay or continue to the top.  Down-climb the chimney to the left or Rap off of

Swiss Cheese

.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Anteater - West