Let me preface this. Supposedly this route was climbed a long time ago but I cleaned it extensively and it has not been reported officially anywhere. Take it for what it's worth.

Description: Follow the rightward leading hand crack with good protection. Grab face holds when you can and pull up into the crack. Once there, follow the face up to a stance. Here, if you are tall enough you can get a yellow alien in the high crack. If not, you might have to run it out. If so, you're looking at a long fall. It is possible to sling a root at chest height but the FA party didn't so it's up to you. From here, pull the flake with marginal feet up to the next flake, with less marginal feet. Then pull onto the top.

Start with a steep leaning hand crack that brings you to a good stance. From here work in some protection and climb the face on good holds and sloping feet to the anchor above.

The anchor at the top also provides a good TR setup for the classic stemming corner below.

Journey to the other side of the bridge

Even Steven (bottom) and Toxic S- (variation)

Slapshot

ZAP! Right between the Eyes

Tang

Stinkbug

Toxic Shock

Never Have I Ever Used A Stepstool

The View from the Bridge

Roadside Floral Curtain

Even Steven

Geek Corners

This is the first part of Even Steven up to the slung horn right at the base of the .11b finger crack that is Even Steven full. It's a fun little moderate climb to warm up on before trying Toxic Shock, or something to pass the time on while waiting for something to clear up. It is also used as an alternative start to Toxic Shock.

A line that climbs a lot like a Gritstone route.

Begin with one of two cruxy start options off the deck: Either start directly below the arete and make a deadpoint slap with your left hand using a severely polished left foot, or choose to traverse in from the left. Either way you chose, it is pretty difficult to get established.

Once you have gained access to the blunt arete, follow a series of insecure moves up the arete using a large amount of core tension, open-hand slaps and pinches, and inventive heel/toe hooking.

After the first 30 feet, however, the route becomes somewhat contrived, as it is very easy to escape around to the right of the arete and into the safety of the 5.8 crack.

Another worthy addition to the Tang area. Potent high steps, crimps, palms, stems and utter desperation will get you past the crux dihedral. Another crux up high may foil your send though. True fact: during cleaning efforts, an upset hornet stung Trevor "right between the eyes"

"You hit me with a million volts,

You nail me with a lightning bolt,

Oh, baby, you knock me cold.

You're love zapped me, right between the eyes."

WAX-

Immediately left of the cave entrance, look for a thin line going straight up, near the cave lip.

Bouldery start (11c), but stays challenging to the anchor. Pitch two is a hand crack (10d). Or, both pitches can be combined, as shown in the photo.

This route has been resurrected from the moss and rebolted using the original holes. It packs a punch in 50', featuring ridiculous stemming, super technical traverses, and a powerful finishing sequence.

A TR can easily be setup from Stepstool. This route dries fast, even in the winter.

Toxic Shock is one of the most gorgeous parallel 5.9 handcracks I've ever seen. To get there, follow the Inner Walls trail way up, cross the stream to your left, just below a large boulder, and continue up towards the west side of the canyon.

The Toxic Shock area has a crack and a bolted arete leading up to an intermediate ledge with a rap station. For Toxic Shock, either layback the crack to the left of the bolted arete, or start around the corner to the right on the two 5.8 cracks. Above the ledge, Toxic Shock is the gorgeous amazing handcrack.

This route is loaded with fun mantles that make the movement interesting for the grade. The line wanders but the drag isn't too bad as long as you don't keep gear in the crack by the 3rd bolt or use really short draws. A 5.10 climber can probably do this with just draws, all hard moves are bolt protected.

Begin up a mellow corner and establish yourself on the first of many ledges. Pull a tricky mantle to access the next ledge and traverse to the right. Bring your stepstool or find a way of reaching a protruding horn and pull another fun move onto the next tier. A bolt was added because the gear is behind a hollow flake.

Step left and head up a techy dihedral with good edges up high (5.9). Make a final mantle and head up to the 'Geek Corners' anchor on easier terrain.

A short, pure-stemming corner.

If leading this seems too intimidating for you, then you can climb to the top via the 5.8 just left of the corner, and easily set up a TR.

A 5.12 boulder problem leads to challenging moves between good stances. Some of the higher sections are beguiling and desperate.

The set of cracks on the face to the right of Toxic Shock heading straight up from the ledge. Fun moves, fairly consistent difficulty, and distinct reachy cruxes (at least for short people like myself) make this a great climb. Approach the area as for Toxic Shock and climb either of the starts for Toxic Shock to reach the ledge.

Follow the tiered corner to the right of Even Steven. Whenever the moves start to feel desperate, face holds magically appear. This route was covered in moss until 2018 and may have gotten slightly easier following heavy cleaning and loose rock removal.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Toxic - Tang Area