One of my favorite routes at Parks starts out with a bang: a crux roof right off the ground, easily protected with a horizontally placed cam after tiptoeing up the short slab start. From there, intricate but not terribly difficult vertical climbing leads to a pair of beefy hangers (no rings) above Elf Toes. Requires 70m rope, or top out on The Pharaoh (5.10d). 

Snake Charmer

Living in the Past

Elf Toes

The Pharaoh

Cleopatra

Anthony

Movin'To Montana

Start as Anthony, at the Mountaineer's Wall arete's blocky base. Consider placing cams to protect the first 20'. Once all the holds run out (not kidding), strike straight upwards past three bolts, then veer left to clip the last bolt of Anthony once the going is easy, then up another few feet to the shared anchor.

One of my favorites at Parks, my first long techy trad lead. Requires a 70m rope and small gear.Belayer can hang on one of the Elf Toes bolts by traversing right from the sloping gravel approach, just uphill of a large pine. Climb diagonally left on skimpy gear to the dike, then follow the feature up and slightly right to the large twin hanger anchor (no rings). Tricky placements are some distance apart, top stays wet late in the Spring. 

Climb the brown streak on the left side of the slab on the Mountaineer's Wall.  Follow the brown streak up to a ledge (rest) then continue up past more bolts to reach the anchor.  This is a delicate sustained route that only gets harder the farther up you go.  Make to single rope rappels or use two ropes to rap.

A short, powerful route to top out above Anthony, Cleopatra, or Snake Charmer. The steep starting slab is covered in lichen (May 2021) but the corner to the left is clean and will swallow gear as you traverse the roof back to the face. From the large horizontal crack it's 2 bolts and 20' to the quick-link anchorA 70m rope lets you rappel down to the base.

This is one of several overlooked routes at Parks, perhaps due to its difficulty - both to find and to climb. It follows the arete immediately right of the 5.9 wall (Elf Toes, Cold Shot, Turkey Trot, etc), switching from a blocky start to a near-vertical slab finish on micro-nubbins. Begin at the cluster of pines at the base of the arete, working your way straight up the stack of strenuous blocks. Placing gear makes it PG. The first bolt is almost half-way up the route, when the face climbing starts -- from the last tiny ledge, strike off at 45 degrees to the left, following 2 bolts to a small flake then 3 more bolts to the anchor. Strenuous climbing for the grade (from the original guide book), with slightly crumbly rock on the left side of the route. (Straight up from the last ledge is Cleopatra, 5.11a.)Ascend Pharaoh (5.10d) to top out. 

Pitch 1: Locate a large corner system with a distinctive triangular roof hanging out over it.  Begin by climbing up easy ground on crumbling rock and traverse left under an off width crack to gain the bottom of the large right facing corner.  Follow the corner up and belay on large hand sized gear below a chimney.   

  Pitch 2: Climbing the chimney using nice cracks and face holds.  Belay on gear.  Rap from trees or walk off.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in e. Mountaineers Wall