This route has great moves, but hasn't seen much traffic and thus has some sandy holds. The moves use good rock, but there is some choss within reach, belayer beware.

The first two bolts can be clipped from on top of or just above the starting boulder. Make a long reach from undercling / sidepulls up to the 3rd bolt and continue up steep terrain to the 4th bolt. Don't stray too far left into the choss. Use two good crimps and a heel hook to reach up the face to a good stance at the 5th bolt. One more reachy sequence on crimps brings you to the final roof section.

Move right on decent holds to the 6th bolt and figure out the sequence to get a good left hand undercling. Power up hard to your choice of crimps in the next roof tier, keep the feet on and bump to a good hold in the hueco. More good holds to the left allow you to clip the hanging (old) draw on the last bolt and get a quick shake. Work left on juggy flakes and make a powerful move (a deadpoint if you are gassed) to a sidepull pinch. Then work your way to a high crimp for the tricky anchor clip.

This route is quite pumpy and is currently a little dirty, but the moves are great.

Ich Bin Ein Auslander

Sandbox

Pet Czech Boys

SNAFU

Great movement on face crimps, then glue-reinforced jugs out the roof. The climbing is wild and 4-stars. In spring 2017, it seems the route does not see much traffic and may need a brushing. 5.12a in the guidebook, I would say 12b is fair.

Stick-clip the first bolt (consider hanging the 2nd draw with a stick clip as well). Climb the dirty corner with some stemming to a series of crimps and sloping ledges that traverse left past the first bolt. Climb straight up on crimps and ledges (with a sweet under-cling move) to below the first roof.

From here, a well-planned series of reinforced jugs take you to a decent knee-bar rest on a flake below the second roof. Suss out a difficult sequence from the roof through an under-cling bulge to the last bolt. Follow jugs and avoid flakey rock to a stance at the anchors.

The rock on the face and the reinforced holds are solid. Some weak flakes exist and could be kicked off in the roofs. Consider a helmet and a strategic location (not under the climber) for the belayer.

Furthest left sport route on the buttress. First 4 bolts are on beautiful gray rock with amazing texture. Starts off punchy, and keeps throwing little boulders at you the whole way up this perfect gently overhanging face. Jug your way out the roof, and stand up onto the upper headwall to clip the anchors.

There are a couple hollow flakes on the lower face, but all the holds in the roof are solid. The 5th bolt is quite rusty.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 5. Fourth Buttress