Jump start from a smaller rock (not the large rock underneath that slopes into the water) to a good jug. Find a big flake with your right foot and haul yourself up using the arete and a small left hand jug. Scary, but a lot of fun. Careful with the landing - uneven and sloping down into the water.

The Edge of Chaos

Chaos Roof

Ultimate Doom

Start as for Chaos Roof, but instead of heading left throw out right to some blind slaps for crimps, working your way into the undercuts that mark the start of Doom. Finish up Doom.The direct version, which goes at low end V11 (ish), adds a hard move by eliminating the left-hand flake that Ultimate Doom normally finishes on. Instead of going left to a crimp and bumping to a jug from the undercuts, go up and right to a good crimp, left to a thin crimp, and up and right to a good flake. Top out. 

If you're facing downstream: start on a pinch under the left upstream side of the roof. Work your way out to and along the edge using tiny holds and sketchy heel hooks. Once you reach the start of The Edge of Chaos (a good jug at the bottom of the right arete), finish on The Edge of Chaos (climb up the arete and topout).

The "Chaos Roof" part of the "Chaos Roof Area AKA Snowflake Boulder."

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Chaos Roof