Start on the slab and reach your way up through some easy technical climbing until you get to the arete where the 5.12 crux is to some small edges after a high step.  There is two ways to pull the crux, without the arete  make a reachy move to an edge using a toe hook. 

Inappropriate Behavior

Black Buttress

Intimidator

Disintigration

Steppin' Out

Despondency

Cowabunga

Root Route

Rated X

Schism

Mental Blocks

Peek-a-boo

Finesse

Rathke's Roof

Poison Ivy Jam

Contrived

Technical Difficulties

Despondecy Direct

Frank's Climb

Ultimate Bushwack

No Soap

Heart and Soul

Mossy Gully

The Pretzel

Digititus

Impasse

The Romp

Extension

Ludwig's Dude

Intergalactic Quaalude Trip

Myalgia

Doug's Roof

Ragged Edge

One For the Road AKA One Last Time

Three Mules

The Nose

Let  Me Go Wild

Myasthenia gravis (AKA Up Yours)

Building Blocks

Pigeon Shit

Blowout

Beginner's Corner

Potato Chips

Century Club

Brachiator

Walk On By

Karen's Overhang

Astral Projection

Alice's Corner

Karen's Direct

Rocket Man

Conscientious Objection

Second Thoughts

The Resistance

Despondecy Direct Natural

Bingo Wings

Hollywood

Cold Turkey

Start Just to the right of Rocket man on the face holds. Use a 'meh' pocket or a shallow undercling to gain the good edge up and to the left. Make one more big move to another edge that joins you up with Rocket man and finish with more face edges. 

 Adds a couple harder moves to Rocket man that are fun for the grade. If there is a more accepted name out there I am not aware of it but the chalk tells me this has been done plenty of times before.

Thin crimping leads to fun sandstone jugs on the easy ending. Black Buttress is a nice, pure vertical test-piece for the grade. Mind your footwork on this one and be open to some side-to-side route finding to find the path of least resistance. Avoid holds near Mossy Gully, as well as the large jugs within a foot of the arete, these are part of Impasse.The base of this climb is often muddy, consider using the wooden ladder at the base of Mossy Gully to clear the mud and first 3 feet. Please be careful not to block the small drainage ditch that flows across the base of the climb, this drain keeps the rest of the Mossy Gully dihedral dry.

Start approx. 10ft right of Doug's roof, on blocky holds.  The crux is moving through these holds and into the easier roof section.  A fall on this lower section will send a top-roper swinging out into space and has the potential for collision with rocks on the ground, hence the name!  Finish on 20ft of ledgy, featured sandstone, angling gently left toward the Doug's Roof anchors.

Directly below overlook porch. Work your way up wall, just left of Karen's. Route is from guide book and its name does it justice. The second half of route is fragile sandstone, so watch your holds.

Climb Rocket Man in the corner then 'step out' to the blank face to the left. Continue upwards through a couple move crux and finish with some easy climbing.This is an old eliminate as it takes off the wall on the right forcing you to use some really thin holds straight up after leaving the one jug on the wall.  Traversing out further left is also not the problem as that is Steppin Over and goes at 5.11.

Same start as Despondency Direct, but traverse right and up a series of right-facing sidepulls to bypass the big move to the jug. Once you get to jug, the finish is the same as DD.

Begin to the right of Doug's Roof on a small arete. Begin by bouldering up to the roof and work crimps slightly to the left.

Easy climb...  Quick set-up...  Nice day!  

  Climb up to left most point of small ledge and   continue straight to the top.

Start on good ledge right of the mermaid carving. Climb up into a side pull and work slightly right onto the carving then head straight to the top.

Climb the hand crack to the left of Beginner's Corner.

Ascend the face just right of the corner/roof system of Building Blocks, a few feet left of Root Route. Hardest moves could be pulling yourself onto the rock using sloping, sandy holds (and feet which are perennially wet and slimy). Slab your way to the top and the fun moves of the final mantle.

Start in the open book and traverse left onto the orange face and climb to the top.

A direct route through the horizontal rail of Three Mules and heading straight to the top.Boulder problem just goes into the horizontal rail for a nice little warm up.

Start as Up Yours Direct:  Start low with feet on bare rock surrounded by moss. Continue straight up the left side of the dihedral face, tending more left than straight up. The roof has some absolutely blind reaches to two finger pockets.

 This climb might be extremely reach dependent.

Large crack in picture. Climb up crack and onto face to top out.

Short for My Little Flakes. Climb the first bit of Chips then move right onto a ledge. Continue from here up to the top on small, friable flakes.

Same start as Brachiator. When you get to the ledge traverse right to go up between small Brachiator Crack and larger Potato Chips Crack. Climb to the top avoiding holds on each of the other two climbs.

Stand up on large but slopey (probably sandy) holds and slabby feet. Step up and reach for another set of large holds above. Make a harder move off a sidepull to make it onto less vertical terrain.

Difficult beginning with a few condensed moves. Get ready for either a dyno or a lengthly lock off to a decent hold in the middle of the route. Find hands on a small crimp, get high feet and pull hard on a crimpy sidepull to finish the rest of the route. Last ten feet are 5.easy

Just left of "reflections" climb tiny crimps to the top just right of the seam. First ascent put a #4 camalot in under the overhang to limit the swing out with a fall. careful because it can blow easily if not placed perfectly

This fun little climb contains lots of large ledges; making it a great beginner climb. Start under a tree growing out of the rock, head left out from under a boulder, then move right and up to the top.

Climb up the rather blank face, making thoughtful moves on good holds until it levels out higher up. Would be good if it weren't so short.

Getting off the ground is the crux on this one.  Contemplate how much soil has washed away here as you either dyno to the first good hold, Batman the rope, or finagle a traverse in from the left.  Thin and sandy holds lead to the top.

Essentially a lieback with some extra holds thrown in, Mossy Gully provides easy cranking up a clean looking corner until it widens into a dirty v-slot. "Clean" meaning the line the crack cuts, not necessarily the grunge covered bottom of the climb, or the muddy base you may encounter.

Make a long move from a slightly awkward undercling to a pocket then continue up on crimps to the top. The starting feet are often greasy, but this little route has some interesting movement.This is an old sandbagged Grand Ledge problem that can be bouldered out.  Start with opposing hand on block at head height (in red).  Move into good pocket follow by a good two-finger pocket and on up.  There is an easier variation (in blue) starting right of this and meeting with the main line.  Both finish in the good triangle shape hold up high.

Using the left face, climb straight above the large “e” carved into the rock. Climb towards the right side of the large horizontal opening.

 (description lifted from the guidebook)

Climbs the blocky arete to the left of Black Buttress.

Climb slightly overhung face just to the left of the arete. Finish is at the small oak tree right at the edge of the cliff.           

Start between CO and The Nose. Climb the vertical face on good holds and over the small bulge at the top. 

  Variation:   Over-Extension, 5.6, * - Climb Extension, then move hard left under and around the roof rather than going over it.

The start is about 3 foot tall flat pedestal next to the cliff, climb the two vertical cracks to a crux at the end of the cracks.  Finish on a usually dirty face with good edges that add a bit of an endurance crux. This climb needs to be cleaned near the top every so often, If you take the time to clean it with a brush then the climb is much more enjoyable and stays pretty clean for a while depending on what the rain does with the dirt.

 Sometimes people do an easier indirect finish to the right in a little dirty corner a little to the right.  

 2 Eliminates: If you're up for a challenge try climbing up this section of rock while just using one of the two cracks. The Left Crack might have an actual name by the first ascentionist but I like calling it "Ludwigs" (5.12). Ludwigs has a very fun and balancy technical crux at the end of the crack. This eliminate is a super hard onsight but once you know how to grab the holds and where to put your feet its much easier (like any technical crux). The right crack, "Dude" 5.11a (again, probably not the original name) does not get as many stars but go with what you get on the right crack using anything on the face as well.  The last move on the crack is the crux to this one as well.  Finish on the face for both of these. 

Start on the high block left of Finesse.  Climb straight up through a sloping edge for the left and into a large seam where the boulder problem end.  Continue straight to the top on TR to finish the route.Typical Grand Ledge 10b.

Climb face between arete and crack, which are both off.

A bouldery start in a shallow open book... climb to the flaky roof then heel hook to pull out and follow the jugs all the way to the top..... Classic!!

 Doug didnt name this after himself, everyone just called it Dougs Roof after he did it. 

The striking and unavoidable overhanging arete to the left of "rocket man". Easy climbing leads to a long reach and a several move crux sequence that would make a burly onsite but is pretty tame when the beta is deciphered.

Follow the best holds to low roof. Crux comes pulling it and the next few moves after that. Maintain through the pumpy upper section on small sandstone jugs. Fun holds abound. Benefits from less traffic than its five neighbors.

Follow a diagonal rail up and left until it is possible to climb directly to the top of the crag.  Beware the potential for a swinging fall early in the climb.

Climb the obvious left-facing protrusion which splits the Nose Buttress. Some people think it looks like a nose?

Start under the huge roof... climbing past very old bolts, pull the roof to the top.

Starts at the base of Doug's roof. Instead of making the move to the jug, move left and traverse under the large ledge using the namesake mono. Continue traversing left and eventually mantle on top of the ledge. 

start in the open book and follow the thin crack to the blocky finish.

start on the small ledge and move right onto the wall and follow the pigeon poo to the top.

Start on Cowabunga boulder start. Reach the flake, then stay right of Cowabunga finish but left of ragged edge holds.

Fine, quick climb. 

  Climb the corner crack and face to the left. 

Lots of local climbers do laps on this and neighboring routes as a warm up. Down climbing is a good way to practice feet on overhung routes. The crux is working around the two overhangs that are in the first 10 feet of the climb. Follow the crack after the crux to the top.

Start as for Building Blocks and transition out of the quickly onto the left (orange) face and through the small roof.

The next top rope groove left of Potato Chip, Brachiator starts blocky before blanking out. After facing this holdless horror, there are some pumpy jugs leading to the top.

Ignore the starting hold for Blind Faith and make difficult campus moves on hard to reach carbonate start holds.  After a few moves the climbing eases and continues up using the same holds as Blind Faith.  

Start is far left, underneath the observation deck, work your way up and traverse right to some smaller holds to your anchor/tree. Use the large tree just to the right of the observation deck.

A short and fairly easy climb in a sandy dihedral with a few chopped holds.  Makes a good kids climb.  If I remember correctly, the name "Alice Andruson" is carved into the rock near the base of this route.

Same as Karen's Overhang, but this route runs directly upward. Start with a few crimps off of the rocks and work your way upward through a semi-sustained route. This route can become sandy.

Rocket Man is the right facing hanging dihedral immediately to the right of Ragged Edges.  It is one of the better 5.10 routes at The Ledges.  Start on a sidepull and make a couple of long moves up into the dihedral.  Pop over the lip and work your way up on face holds to the right of the corner.

Start on good holds at the edge of the big overhang. Work up and left along the lip until you can head straight up to the top while remaining left of the smaller roof up top. 

  Variations:    CO2, 5.10a, * Begin as for Conscientious Objection but heads straight up in between CO and Extension before joining Extension at the top. 

  V1, ** Begin on start holds for Midget's Delight and fire over the roof to merge with the rest of CO.

Start on Dougs Roof and climb up to the chocolate chip "cookie hold", avoid climbing the roof section all together and instead hand traverse to the flat ledge to the left, once you reach the corner with a nice positive hold then mantle ontop of that section of rock.  Second Thoughts ends once you mantle the traverse ledge but if you continue up on Jay's Overhang and Dougs Roof  this wont result in a bad rope swing for you and the rock.  

"Wheres the crux? Whats good / bad? Details, opinions, and deep thoughts."

 The crux is at the double gaston, finishing 10 feet out left of Ludwigs Dude. Whats good is that its hard. Whats bad is that it is that its not a natural climb, its an old aide route route that use old pin scars for some of the holds. This climb is called The Resistance, not "resistance" (Air On) which are two different climbs that are confused with one another. This line being described here has has certainly been resisted.  Its possible that it has only seen 2 ascents as of May 12 2021. What is Interesting? "This climb has a similarity to The Mandala V12. Dave Graham found new beta after Chris Sharma put it up using two gastons. Instead of using gastons, Dave grabbed one of the gastons as a sidepull and busted out right finishing on the same section of the boulder". -Jamie Emerson In 2002 that same thing happened on this section of rock in Grand Ledge when  Aaron Stockhausen grabbed one of the holds as a sidepull (instead of as a gaston) and jumped out right to a ledge near Ludwigs Dude.  The line that Aaron took is called "Air On" 5'13c as he did this climb with a rope as well.  The Resistance uses two gastons for the crux and finishes out left from Ludwigs Dude.       

Low crux boulder problem using non-manufactured holds. The big starter slot, the smaller pocket/slot up left and the chiseled hold above the crescent edge are off.Drop off at the jug after the crimps, or continue up past another crux to easier climbing above.

Start between Intimidator and Cowabunga. Climb straight up using a “leg jam” on the big shelf. Big moves past the shelf lead to the top.  Avoid good holds to the left and right.

https://youtu.be/cEd0TIjkhWU

 Grade is based on his video description of Another bingo Mother. 

Same start as Walk on By but instead of going straight up when you get your feet on the face, traverse 4 feet right with a big move. After hitting the move, continue straight up easier rock to the finish.

Start down in the corner with an awkward start and trend right.  Good little boulder problem topping out on the Ballerina Bulge. Rock quality is not good above Ballerina. As such, it is not recommended climbing higher.

This a listing of all rope routes at Grand Ledge. Add boulder problems to that sub-area. Sunny sandstone crag in the lower peninsula of Michigan right on the Grand River. The cliff is 40ish feet tall and offers bouldery, challenging routes. Classic rope routes include:Chips: 5.7Black Buttress: 5.9Doug's Roof: 5.10Rocket Man: 5:10Intimidator: 5.11Cowabunga: 5.11Ragged Edge: 5.12The cliff faces south and receives sun most of the day with the majority of wind blocked as well. It exists in Oak Park, which is managed by the city of Grand Ledge.  Fitzgerald Park, across the river, does not allow climbing at any time for any reason and was part of the concession the climbing community accepted for continued access at Oak Park. While the rock quality is pretty good on established classics, other areas can be quite chossy, so be careful.Unique Rules to Grand Ledge:(1) No lead climbing.(2) Must place carpet below your anchors to protect cliff from erosion. You will see how soft the rock is and all the marking from webbing and rope.(3) No Rappelling.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Top Rope