This route traverses under the massive roof topping the shield. It is a unique climb in which you begin and end on the ground, and aside from the first pitch, stays dry in a rainstorm. Take care to protect the follower. This is great adventure climbing for the entire party, although if 5.9 is your limit, this could be a bit nervewracking.

P1.

Bat Crack

(5.8): this pitch is listed as an independent route and is usually climbed as such. Start on the far left side of the shield slab at the corner, and climb it to slung chockstones at 50', or link it into P2.

P2.

Back Crack

(5.9 R): climb past the chockstone, and lieback up the wide crack. Keep liebacking as the crack heads right around numerous loose, thin flakes and up to a bolt anchor up under the roof, 50'.

P3. Rainy Day Dreamin' (5.9): squeeze into the bombay up and right from the anchor as it pinches off, where you'll briefly climb on the face untill you reach the horizontal crack formed by the top of a massive thin flake. Hand traverse right across the top, and then go down at the end to a set of bolts (top of "Naked Chicken").

P4. Tough Shit (5.8+): this has a tough move right off the belay past a bolt that leads to traversing along a varied crack. This pitch really lives up to its name. End at the first anchor you come to (the top of "

Something on the Shield

") or continue to the 2nd anchor (the top of "

Suzy Creamcheese

").

P5. Toto's Traverse (5.6 R/X, more dangerous to follow): traverse rightwards off the anchor following the major dike system until it leads back to

terra firma

in the gully on the far right side of the shield. Make sure to dial the pro for your follower lest you be exposing them to severe groundfall.

Shield Traverse

Captain Trips aka Black Diamond

Something on the Shield

Suzy Creamcheese

Bat Crack

Climb a right-facing corner on the far left side of The Shield. This has good crack climbing in a corner on good rock. It is one of the best moderates around here.

This has fun slab climbing up a unique natural weakness.

Climb up the slab to a hanging corner, then more climb slab to the anchors under the big roof. It isn't over until you get to the anchors.

This has excellent slab climbing. Technical slab climbing leads to a seam. When the seam ends, another section of friction climbing leads to the anchor station under the roof.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Shield